Bad-Boy 92 inch 1952 Pan

Looking forward to seeing "sample tank" on the frame and will highly likely go for it so you basically saved some time.

I'll pass on the conversion gear since Vulcanworks makes a splined version that fits stock gears

https://secure.vulcanworks.net/store...peed-only.html

thus fits Baker if for some (unlikely) reason I get Bakerlust in future. Active and vets take note Baker has a military discount.

Those Triumph sprung hubs look kool (on British bikes) but they add slop and limit sprocket options. I used to have one and should have hung onto it as they're $$$ today being desired by early Turnip owners. Meriden did odd shit sometimes.

Large OD allthread, big ass washers and PVC make a dandy gear pressing tool. I used that combo installing da Baker on my FXR.

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Farmall I have a Paugcho cylindrical oil tank of the same variety in raw collecting dust, don’t believe it’s ever been mounted if your interested.

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Thanks for the offer. I'll eyeball the other tank on my Ironhead and if it looks right I'll get with ya. PM me what ya want for it shipped to 29150. No rush. I'd be modding it anyway so it having Softy mounts wouldn't be an issue.

Might as well quote a spring post assembly and T-bar etc. I can wait on the actual seat.

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Originally Posted by farmall

Thanks for the offer. I'll eyeball the other tank on my Ironhead and if it looks right I'll get with ya. PM me what ya want for it shipped to 29150. No rush. I'd be modding it anyway so it having Softy mounts wouldn't be an issue.

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I’m off this weekend so I’ll pull her out and send some pics, gotta imagine I can flat rate it for around $25 or so, whatever ya thinks fair honestly. I’ll send some pics after I pull her out to make sure it’s what your looking for.

Attachment 107138Attachment 107139
Attachment 107140
Attachment 107141

Don’t believe it’s ever been ran, snagged it in a parts grab and it’s sat around in a light primer dust coat since.

Cool Beans ...
Looks to be the same tank that I have coming, but for mine is a side fill ...

Trans plate got here ...

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...gw&oe=61E1B1B7

Does look to be well made ..

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...kA&oe=61E4047B

Lets see how well it fits .... Want too ?? :p

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5A&oe=61E35DA7

Nice ... Gotta love it when things fall into place ..

Excellent, and being zinc'ed I can blast then coat it if I wish.

I've an alloy trap door left over which will replace the peeling plated part when I skin out that box to give it a pseudo-cast finish.

Is that shift arm alloy or steel? If alloy I'll replace with steel (stronger splines and da pinch clamp area doesn't stretch) then slather in red Loctite (which is intended to remove slack in splined joints) when I go through it. I used stronger steel Dyna arms on my FXR and drilled that one closer to the pivot for a longer throw for a given shifter movement.

No alloy arms shall defile my gearboxes because they require an inner primary R&I when they strip splines or crack at the bottom eye.

Short shifter linkage is two Heim joints one male and one female replacing the stock "chromed riding mower parts". I'll shave the top off on the Pan but left it on the FXR to not bust the plating. I'll probably Cerakote the arm for the Pan so plating damage won't matter.

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Originally Posted by farmall

Is that shift arm alloy or steel?

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It's steel ...

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Originally Posted by farmall

Might as well quote a spring post assembly and T-bar etc. I can wait on the actual seat.

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Since most all hardware we have acquired so far has been in a Parkerized finish, the seat post is also offered parkerized ..

https://www.vtwinmfg.com/WebPics/49/49-0271a.jpg

Heavy duty seat post is assembled with a full set of springs installed, hex nuts, and spacers. Seat post diameter is 1.180".
These seat posts are equipped with the heavy duty color coded spring set installed! Pin for swivel top tab is pressed in place as original.

FITS
UL 1937-1948
EL 1936-1940
FL 1941-1980

The seat Tee choice might need to wait for what seat you will be using ..
But I'd say the 1941 to 64 would work really well without much fab work if any ..

https://www.vtwinmfg.com/WebPics/31/31-0569c.jpg

Replica black seat T with 2 stage front bushing and 5/16" bolt.
NOTE: 2-stage steel bushings are removable and can be interchanged or replaced as necessary. Seat T accepts 5/16" bolt to fit through the bushing.

Let's go with Parkerized of course. (I'll Sharkhide all the Parkerized parts after final assembly.)

41-64 post will do since any machining or fab to match a particular seat is no problem.

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Originally Posted by farmall

My rocker covers have some dings so I'll need stainless covers.

Are the steel D-rings equal or superior to cast alloy? Are stainless D-rings available? I'll also need a stainless acorn nut hardware kit.

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Let's yak about this for a moment or two ...

The Stainless tins are a grand idea, offered in a polished or chromed ...
Both shine like a new penny ..!!

I always liked the Thick D rings, IMO they offer a better sealing force ..
Can be had in a Chrome, Polished or Cast finish ..

Options;
These are super cool ..
After/market accessory dress up item from back in the day ...

https://assets.bigcartel.com/product...fit=max&w=1050

https://assets.bigcartel.com/product...fit=max&w=1500

Replica 1948-1965 Harley Davidson FL Panhead Rocker Arm Finned Cover by Atlas (Re-pops) ...
1948-1965 Harley Davidson FL Panhead Rocker Arm Finned Cover

Panhead rocker arm finned covers are the exact reproduction of the "Atlas" products company of Detroit.
Fin mounts over thin steel "D" rings on panheads.
The fin mounts with a drilled and tapped hole at each end.

The head must be drilled at those two points for screws that attach the finned D-Ring covers.
In the D-Ring mount pattern, the three center screws are covered by the fin, as it is dimpled to fit over the three screw heads.

Adds a bit of "Old Time Class" to the Tins ...
______________________________________________

C-E Gen came in today ...

https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...xQ&oe=61E641EC

https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...hw&oe=61E64B04

Don't think I'd fart with it .... Its ready for action out of da box ...
(As soon as I locate a Oem gear for it, don't care for the re-pops cause they are a sloppy fit on the splines)

The Gen at the top of the photos will be seeing the dip tanks for plating ..
Going to be put to use on a Super Slick Custom .. (Ness Digger with a 69 Shovel Motor, straight out of the 80's )

Attachment 107167

Lov'n the digger!

The Sputhe 5 ina 4 tranny that I've been working on for months will see service in that scooter ...

Attachment 107168

... /// https://youtu.be/DVc4RSjnb00 \\\ ...

.. "Going Downunder" ..

Anticipating a gorgeous digger! That will be a handsome machine.

Let's order with the late thick cast D-rings and stainless rocker covers.

That will seal things suitably and a stainless acorn nut set will set them off. (Acorn bonus, the studs can get Loctited so all wear will be in the expendable stud threads not in the cylinder head.)

If no one makes a stainless acorn kit then I'll solve that with some 10-24 x 1-1/4" stainless socket head bolts (length derived from the Gardner-Westcott chrome offerings but I don't want chrome which exists to pit and piss me off) then fiddle with longer studs and 10-24" stainless acorns later unless you have that stuff handy.

Does 10-24 x 1-1/2" sound kosher for the studs? That should leave enough room for full nut engagement plus a narrow stainless washer for looks and to protect the D-ring.

Chrome or Zinc is all I can find ...

Might call Joe Johns (Vulcan) and see if he has or will make .. ??

Could say the hell with the D-Rings ....

https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...ead-Rocker.jpg

.... :eek: ....

Panhead rocker covers is like walking into Baskins-Robbins ..

https://i1.sndcdn.com/artworks-00034...4-t500x500.jpg

https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...per-bobber.jpg

https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...Uw&oe=61E814C2

https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...vw&oe=61E7C80D

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...2/DSC04191.jpg

Wild story about those Rocker Boxes .. ^^

Back in 1966 when the Shovel's came on line, the Shiner's wanted all their scoots to look the same ..
So they came up with the Shovel looking boxes for their Panhead riders ...

I should have scored those Shovel style cover for wall hangers back in the '80s when I saw 'em at Cherokee swap meet but the MPD Ironhead primary cover for 50 bucks was too hard to resist. So was the running Ironhead Fairbanks mag for another 50... Good times.

Some of those cast covers, especially the top style, are pretty but not for that kind of cash in my case so lets stick with thick alloy D-rings. I can always switch later and have a couple of nice parts trays. :p

If Joe wants to have a sheet of stainless laser cut (and use nesting software to make other parts "inside" the D-ring contour to avoid wasting expensive stainless sheet) they would likely sell since they'd look much cleaner than the zinc plated spot-welded style. I'd buy a set.

Looking at the stamped "stack of spot welded sheet metal" stock style steel rings (the cheapest way for the MoCo to produce them because dies last much longer) they'd be easy meat to send out for laser cutting from single-thickness material. 1/4" instead of stock 3/16" should be amply stiff. The combo of stainless covers, rings and hardware would polish out nicely and not corrode or pit unlike modern dogshit chrome. 1/4" is thick enough for other parts cut at the same time.

No need to buy and learn nesting software since laser (and waterjet for thicker material outfits do that for their customers. IIRC cad programs do that but due to surgery I had to drop out of CAD class so dunno personally. Local machine shops send off work like that every day to make tabs and brackets in bulk so if ya come up with a part you want to make and sell exclusively in a small run that would get it done.

Quick eyeball check shows at least one (probably two) four-piston HD caliper adapter plates should fit inside a D-ring and 1/4" stainless plate would look MUCH better than the thick alloy cheap brackets shown. A contour change would avoid any IP infringement and caliper brackets have ancient prior art which is why everyone and their kid sister make the cheap ones. There is nothing to patent.

Stainless shits all over carbon steel brackets because no paint required and it looks fine plain, blasted or polished. I wish other makers would use it for caliper brackets but billet aluminum is dirt cheap as is carbon steel sheet.

I'd add a central lightening hole (or perhaps more than one of different sizes, whatever looks sexiest) for style points and a cunt hair less weight, and because that hole could produce a "drop" with a concentric hole as a thick stainless washer for something else (or just to sell as a washer). Key to profit is using all of the pig but the squeal with minimal scrap because the waste metal from lasering D-rings alone would be brutally expensive.

If Joe can figure out say using a 4x8 sheet with the D-rings nested then caliper brackets nested within the D-rings and if desired thick washers for general sale or with another Vulcan product that could bring cost into comfortable risk range. While caliper brackets for the "non-Brembo" HD calipers will sell (proven because other folks are already selling inferior materials) a sheet would have enough room for more than one style bracket. If needed for other styles the "lightening hole washer" could complement the bracket it was cut from as part of the kit.

The caliper brackets would likely be fast movers to pay for the project and the D-rings could be gravy. The high pricing on cheap brackets leaves room to sell stainless for a bit more and be competitive.

Flat plate with no threads is ideal for stainless since it sucks to machine (and every machining step is more production cost plus more scrapped parts).

Selling stainless ARP bolts and washers (as an option, bagged separately) could be nice too but just spec'ing the needed would cost nothing and buyers could source whatever makes their pecker twitch.

I bought some stainless flat bar drops to mill my own personal plates for the older 39mm forks to the non-Brembo caliper style in the pic but for the time saved (and needing more than one) it would be worth buying them if they're reasonable. As my pro machinistbro taught me part of success is knowing what's most efficient NOT to do yourself so your work can effectively focus.

Metal prices are fucked lately because of the supply situation (my machinistbro says his suppliers can't guarantee quotes for more than a week or two which is fucking nuts!) but 1/4" sheet etc might be odd enough not to be in high demand. I used to buy steel for a local welding school and we always got at least three quotes because prices vary absurdly even in stable times. A laser shop may have suitable drops that would work.

Random (retail and small piece so high) price before shipping for 36 x 48 shows stainless isn't cheap but even at that price and from a local supplier for reduced shipping rape there's enough room to make a healthy profit if it's cut efficiently.

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stain...e-304-2b-1_4th

[QUOTE=farmall;853853

Let's order with the late thick cast D-rings and stainless rocker covers. [/QUOTE]

Will make it so ....

About the screws, going to check-in with Garner-Westcock and Colony .... Might get lucky ??

Kinda like what the Mo-Co used back in the day ... They had a small head so a socket didn't make contact with the covers .... Same can be said with using Allen's ..

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lY4AA...pvM/s-l300.jpg

24 stainless steel allen head screws fits 48 - 65 Panhead rocker cover with the thick D-rings. 10-24 X 1-1/4".
Could spin off the ribs and polish for a bit more of a custom look ...

Since it makes no sense for me to buy and ship to you let's do 50 for cheap via link below. That'll hold it all together and I'll play with my nuts later on.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/33292030660...3ABFBMys2Bw7xf

I've bought from that vendor before with no problems. I source as much hardware as practical this way since it's so much cheaper and the spares build my bench stock.

I do like your idea of removing the knurling but I can do that easily if it tickles my pickle then swap hardware one-by-one without gasket disturbance. If I do I'll chuck the shanks in my die grinder then spin against appropriate rotating abrasive on my bench grinder other die grinder secured to my tristand (chain vises are wonderful).

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Originally Posted by farmall

other die grinder secured to my tristand (chain vises are wonderful).

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Not picturing this, what'cha talk'n bout?

Wonder how SS Button heads would look up top ??

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...BA&oe=61EACB36

Just got done putting a shine on these ...

Here's a new look for a old motor ...

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...PQ&oe=61EB0F53

https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...3w&oe=61E8947C

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...Sw&oe=61EAC693

It be grinning like a Possum .. !! :p`

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pr...Hod_ZnCmZ0Mznb

Those button heads do look good. I avoid them on riders because of the undersized socket heads which strip easily but they do have a nice contour and spares are cheap by the box. They add a nice "finished" look to that gearbox while looking less "modern" than typical socket head cap screws. Hell yeah use more of them. A general "fastener head theme" is good art.

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Not picturing this, what'cha talk'n bout?

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The famous Rigid tristand https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/portable-tristand-vises and clones are mobile, stable and so versatile every mechanic should own at least one. My photos suck because I use mine outdoors and weatherproof them with waste paint without regard to esthetics. (A thick coat of paint protects against weld spatter too.) The lead screws on my vises are slathered with anti-seize and that combo lets me leave them in the weather for decades. Parts and accessories are readily available.

Cheaper versions can be homebuilt if no used tristands are handy, and you can never have too many (they can also be used in multiples like or with weldors pipe stands).If you weld you can fab a simple tripod with pipe sockets welded to a top plate. Drill sockets for pins/bolts before welding, drill tubing legs for pins (demountable legs make storage and handling comfy), and join the legs with some chain instead of the more elaborate Rigid "folding tray" arrangement and the result would function fine.

Pic of red Milwaukee angle grinder in chain vise (use a spring clamp etc to hold the trigger on grinders lacking a positive switch which I prefer) shows the usual method. Chuck is tapped 5/8"-11 thread (this must be done on center using a lathe/mill/drill with the chuck body held concentric and square to the drill and tap) to work on US spec angle grinder spindles. I have another chain vise indoors set up the same way bolted to a work table because rotation is so convenient.

Hunk of scrap pipe welded to hunk of scrapped Reese hitch adapter and more scrap turns any chain vise into a 360° holding fixture. Spare bench vise is self-explanatory. Hunk of angle is drilled for whatever holes are needed at the time, in this case to hold a vertical shaft Briggs. I don;t chase shit around the workbench any more since once ya make the tool it saves labor and your back for life. Hunk of pipe with a rebar T-handle is for tightening my larger vise and general cheater pipe work, the t-handle prevents it falling through various storage holes.

Larger bench vise on other tristand is bolted to box tubing to fit any of my Reese sockets on welding tables etc. Socket your vise and you get four positions instead of just one. The box tube is welded to a large bolt with a nut and washer beneath the tristand top. I build for easy reconfig and mobility, more like a jobsite than most permanent shops. It's far more convenient and fast to alter as more gear follows me home.

Renters, apartment dwellers and others with no permanent shop space can greatly benefit from a strong stable portable vise mount. Tristand tops include a cast conduit bending fixture. I lube mine with chain lube or was or waste oil on the chain. All vise screws get anti-seize.

Upward-facing scrap angle in bottom pic is the classic way to hold angle grinders instead of laying them down. Hunk of pipe does the same for my MIG gun. Visegrip welded to scrap flat bar is self-explanatory. T-handle on adjustment screw is the best mod I've ever done to visegrips so I zap some scrap to each as I acquire them. Adjustment screws also get anti-seize and the result permits MUCH greater force than any manual squeeze while permitting one hand to squeeze manually while the other adjusts the screw then applies final clamping force.