I installed it at the master cylinder to orange wires and it still worked okay. So that's a good sign.
The other nice thing about these connectors that I use is that they can be easily labeled.
Cut, strip, rosin.
Crimp and solder.
Shrink wrap and plug them in.
Now the engine cut off switch connections. These connections also allow me to bypass a bad switch on the side of the road.
The green wires go to the engine cut off switch.
All done up and connected.
One wire from the horn switch.
The horn button actually feeds a ground to the horn. So the other side of the horn button goes to the ground junction. Also, the ground for the voltmeter will connect there as well. I need a small gauge spade connector to finish voltmeter though.
I will spare you the details of figuring everything out, but no, the risers on the Crossbones and FLS springers are not the same. Notice the difference in height between the bottom hex section of the stock on the left and the FLS kit on the right.
This results in a nice tight riser, but look at all this ugliness hanging out the base of the risers. UGH.
Shopping online is not much help either. I found two different pictures for sure, but the fitment listings didn't seem to match with the correct "file" photograph. So I finally ordered by fitment and hoped for the best. Even the Alloy Art website wasn't real helpful. Basically, I discover there are three kits. One for FXS, FLS, and Crossbones; part numbers GT-FXS, GT-FLS, and GT-CBS respectively.
The packaging for the new kit confirmed this nice cut-away of the risers shown. I am still a bit amazed by these differences on the risers for each of the front ends.
Top clamp off first, of course.
These nuts next.
The old spongy rubber bushings have to come out.
Studs off next.
From my previous trials with these things, I learned to only remove one at a time. The tapers aligned everything and the top tree will shift a bit with both of them removed. It's not impossible to get things back inline, but leaving one in is easier. Unlike the stock studs, a regular 1 inch socket can be used on these.
I wasn't sure on the torque, I think I did 30 ft*lb.
Both sides done.
Bottom hard bushings go on next.
Risers on. I blew the pictures on the next steps, but the top hard bushing and sleeved metal bushing go on. Then the bolts and torque them to the same as the tapered fitting underneath.
Even when tight the risers will move easily enough to align to fit the bars.
Caps and bolts. These are easy to strip so I went gently tight and I will have to verify the exact torque sequence later.
I use a little rosin on the wire, then light crimp, then solder. My alligator clip holder works here as well as doing straight connections.
A little shrink wrap on the connectors and some where the wires come out of the bars.
There's not enough room for my usual Dorman 85612 connectors so I will have to go with a male spade terminal on the headlight wires. And yes, I did solder on a foot of wire to these leads last time, just used like two inches of the new wire.
This is exactly why I use those covered double male connectors. Just look at all that metal showing.
Connect and cover the metal with electrical tape.
Hide everything with spiral wrap.
I am getting happier about how this is coming along.
Well here we get back to getting this thing together. I bought this spiral wrap off of eBay for this job and it's not quite big enough for everything. I'll need to figure out something else.
I did these connections for the headlight in April, but I don't like them now. So I ripped them apart again. So much for progress.
I don't like the wires I spliced to the headlight socket either. They were too heavy for my liking, so I need to redo those.
Fresh leads with smaller wires.
Some good news, the wrap will work nicely for the headlight bucket wires. The split wrap will help, because two wires will connect at the handlebars and the ground wire will go back to the ground block between the tanks.
Back to the main harness from the bars. Hiding the wires on a conventional hydraulic front end is pretty easy, just drill a hole or two in the top triple tree and route the wire down the neck and frame. Like this.
A springer is different. The top tree is tiny and routing the wires through it means they lay really close to the springs and risk a pinch for sure.
So my plan was adjusted to run the right side handlebar wires to the right of the neck and backbone and the left wires on the left. The exposed parts of the wiring I will cover with shrink wrap.
This is better. Hopefully a lot better with the tanks on. I'm only using re-useable zip ties at this point for sure.
Here's everything for the left side, to include the voltmeter from the middle of the bars. And yes, despite my efforts to have everything clearly color coded, I have big duplication of wire colors; black and black with white paired wire set for both the horn and the voltmeter.
Luckily the voltmeter wires are easily identified. A 9 volt battery will light it up, but won't hurt the horn button wires if you check them the same way.
Here's the left side cleaned up.
At this point I think I ran out of connectors again and then I tried to install solid riser bushings on the springer and that didn't work out because I had the wrong kit. Remember this?
Go check out GearforLife.com They have a lot of cool stuff you didn't know you needed. I actually won this Worst Case survival kit from Gearforlife's instagram account. All great pieces, all stuff you need to camp or motorcycle camp. It fits nicely in a saddlebag. Besides all the basic fire starting stuff, there are other things you will need: paracord is always good, zip ties and band aids of course, a back up mini flashlight, Uncle Bill's Silver Gripper tweezers(I carry those everyday already.), duct tape, and a P-38 opener to open a can of beans or a fancy beer that someone always brings, but forgets the opener.
So here's the solution this time. This Mr. Gasket Electric Fuel Pump #42S - 2 PSI / 3.5 PSI - 28 GPH. About $50 and available at just about any Autozone or O'Reilley's. I was a bit concerned because the stock hose starts at 5/16 and steps down to 1/4 at the filter before it goes to the pump and carb. The Mr. Gasket is 5/16 on both ends.
Well the 1/4 inch hose can be jammed over the 5/16 outlet just fine and the unit comes with a filter. A few zipties and hose clamps and you're plumbed in.
The wiring was a bit of a head scratcher, but not really. The stock set up cuts off the pump when the engine is not running and/or with engine shut off switch turned to off. The pump also runs with the starter spinning, too. We couldn't figure out how to get that complicated, so it we ran just to on with the key on. There's potential to pump out all the gas in a tip over wreck, but you're already having a bad day at that point. The other terrible thing about the wiring was the scotch locks. These connection will need to be more permanent if this is more permanent. d
This rig actually worked. I may go back to a stock pump. However, I will make good soldered connections with quick connect ends in place and carry the Mr. Gasket as a spare.