It's flat and easy to carry on your belt, or in a pocket, jacket, saddlebag, or toolroll.
On the left you can see the bits it comes with: PH#1, PH#2, SL-1/4, SL-3/16, T15, T20, S1, S2. I don't have any Torx or Square drive fasteners on my bike, so I swapped mine a bit. I added a PH#3, needed for at least the airbox on both my bikes. A 5mm hex, because that fits the seat of my Kawasaki. Also for the Kawasaki, I added two JIS#2 bits, for all the rest of its screws. I kept the PH#2, PH#1, SL-1/4, and SL-3/16, as those seem to be useful. If I had a modern Harley, then I would have totally added a Torx 27, because every fastener on those seems to be that bit size.
Well here we are again leaking pushrods. I have had more trouble with the pushrods on this last build than anything. I have been too busy jacking with them and life to even blog about the trials and tribulations. So here's the story. The cool stainless steel Big Jim's tubes leaked and leaked regardless of seals tried. I swapped the fatter aluminum solid pushrods for slimmer steel versions thinking it was the pushrods hitting the tubes. No real change. Daniel thought that the oil tank needed a vent to atmosphere. I tried that, but it didn't help. So I drug the bike back to Daniel in Bartlesville. He swapped the stainless tubes for stock style and everything seemed great. The stainless tube didn't quite center up correctly. Then I noticed that the vent was putting oil out onto the transmission top and clutch basket. So I thought the vent was no longer needed and plugged it with a brass pipe plug.
Well I guess it still has too much case pressure, because oil is coming out the pushrods again.
And oil was even around the brass pipe plug that was sealed with teflon tape. And yes the oil is only about half up in the oil tank.
There was controversy on were to align the breather gear mark when we used the degree wheel on it on two different occasions. I am going to move it from one tooth off to two teeth and see if that helps.
Anyway, I manage to get all the way to Durant before I had to stop for a beer. The 9th Street Bar is a nice little place.
2 o'clock on a Friday afternoon and some random dude was playing country covers for tips and beers. He was pretty decent. Poor guy lost his Harley when he went to rehab.
Back on the road.
Red River bridge to Texas.
Hay bales and countrysides.
Made it to camp. Panhead Fred and Jimbo beat me, and sadly no one had any beer.
Luckily, Pibb rolled in directly behind me.
Pibb saves the day with a trailer full of Bud diesels straight from St. Louis proper.
There were a lot wildflowers, but most weren't where I could get pictures very easily.
Jimbo's primary belt was slapping and he needed to fix it.
Texas Mark got to camp.
He brought his son Eli, too.
The usual suspects.
Beautiful views of lake and sky as always.
Trent and Jason got there about dark.
I have no idea what Pibb was looking for.
Shemp rolled in on Saturday and his bike wasn't quite right, so Mark got to work.
My wife did an excellent job of taking care of everyone at camp.
More chillin' from these two.
My boys did a little fishing and caught a few.
A hitch hiker on Pibb's trailer.
Everything was fine...
until the camera flashed and people got irritated.
Another SCfest in the books.
More on the singing cowboy in Durant, I was getting gas on my way back through on Sunday and I will be damned if the singer didn't show up at the quickie in a pick up truck and get on the trailer and start picking again. Unfortunately, I sent my camera home with my wife so I can't prove it.
I have to take all this carb stuff out and apart to get at it.
A quick note, because I always forget, the main jet is 74.
On the hydraulic front end I was running, the cables went out, around, and through the trees to the left of the steering head. That's not really working this time.
I added this guide to the bars and it may or may not stay.
Running them on this side is getting closer to run-able.
Okay this might just work.
Final (temporary maybe?) routing, the throttle cables split over the brake line near the grip, go through the trees on the right, split around the brake again, split over the rockerbox oil line. Everything seems to work and clear all moving parts.
Cover everything until I can get the proper hose built.
This is where my plans wrecked out again. I was planning to have a hose built locally, like before. Then, I made this discovery. The front brake line has this very specific section of hard line to route it from behind the trees and to the left of the front wheel. You have to have this section to do it correctly. A universal line won't work. Like hiding wires, just another place where a Springer is different than a hydraulic front end.
Luckily, with some internet searching, I found the part number for the 6 over line and found it available on clearance at Dennis Kirk. It was only $28 to my door. I doubt a locally made one could be had much cheaper.
I did buy fresh washer seals for the banjo bolts locally only to find the hose came with them. There were two big and two smaller ones. I used the small ones at the master cylinder and the large ones on the caliper.
Route it through.
Fit it up to the master cylinder. (I need to clean off the yucky clearcoat and put on fresh, but I want to make sure it works out first.)
The proper parts mean a good proper fit. Right in the guide and around the corner twice.
Right to the caliper.
All put together.
Torque the top banjo bolt to spec.
Wow. I never thought this would be an issue. I don't have a double hex socket in this size. I am really anal about torque in an aluminum hole and making sure it seals. Luckily my neighbor had the proper socket so that I didn't have to run to the store to get one. So that got torqued properly.
So I bleed the brake line and of course made a mess on the floor. The brake seems to function, but the lever has a ton of travel. The stock bore Harley MC is 9/16 bore = 0.563. My original plan was a 13mm Kawasaki MC = 0.512. I actually had a 1/2 in Kawasaki MC on had = .500. I will see how it goes. The bigger the MC bore the shorter the stroke needed.
I installed it at the master cylinder to orange wires and it still worked okay. So that's a good sign.
The other nice thing about these connectors that I use is that they can be easily labeled.
Cut, strip, rosin.
Crimp and solder.
Shrink wrap and plug them in.
Now the engine cut off switch connections. These connections also allow me to bypass a bad switch on the side of the road.
The green wires go to the engine cut off switch.
All done up and connected.
One wire from the horn switch.
The horn button actually feeds a ground to the horn. So the other side of the horn button goes to the ground junction. Also, the ground for the voltmeter will connect there as well. I need a small gauge spade connector to finish voltmeter though.
I will spare you the details of figuring everything out, but no, the risers on the Crossbones and FLS springers are not the same. Notice the difference in height between the bottom hex section of the stock on the left and the FLS kit on the right.
This results in a nice tight riser, but look at all this ugliness hanging out the base of the risers. UGH.
Shopping online is not much help either. I found two different pictures for sure, but the fitment listings didn't seem to match with the correct "file" photograph. So I finally ordered by fitment and hoped for the best. Even the Alloy Art website wasn't real helpful. Basically, I discover there are three kits. One for FXS, FLS, and Crossbones; part numbers GT-FXS, GT-FLS, and GT-CBS respectively.
The packaging for the new kit confirmed this nice cut-away of the risers shown. I am still a bit amazed by these differences on the risers for each of the front ends.
Top clamp off first, of course.
These nuts next.
The old spongy rubber bushings have to come out.
Studs off next.
From my previous trials with these things, I learned to only remove one at a time. The tapers aligned everything and the top tree will shift a bit with both of them removed. It's not impossible to get things back inline, but leaving one in is easier. Unlike the stock studs, a regular 1 inch socket can be used on these.
I wasn't sure on the torque, I think I did 30 ft*lb.
Both sides done.
Bottom hard bushings go on next.
Risers on. I blew the pictures on the next steps, but the top hard bushing and sleeved metal bushing go on. Then the bolts and torque them to the same as the tapered fitting underneath.
Even when tight the risers will move easily enough to align to fit the bars.
Caps and bolts. These are easy to strip so I went gently tight and I will have to verify the exact torque sequence later.
I use a little rosin on the wire, then light crimp, then solder. My alligator clip holder works here as well as doing straight connections.
A little shrink wrap on the connectors and some where the wires come out of the bars.
There's not enough room for my usual Dorman 85612 connectors so I will have to go with a male spade terminal on the headlight wires. And yes, I did solder on a foot of wire to these leads last time, just used like two inches of the new wire.
This is exactly why I use those covered double male connectors. Just look at all that metal showing.
Connect and cover the metal with electrical tape.
Hide everything with spiral wrap.
I am getting happier about how this is coming along.
Well here we get back to getting this thing together. I bought this spiral wrap off of eBay for this job and it's not quite big enough for everything. I'll need to figure out something else.
I did these connections for the headlight in April, but I don't like them now. So I ripped them apart again. So much for progress.
I don't like the wires I spliced to the headlight socket either. They were too heavy for my liking, so I need to redo those.
Fresh leads with smaller wires.
Some good news, the wrap will work nicely for the headlight bucket wires. The split wrap will help, because two wires will connect at the handlebars and the ground wire will go back to the ground block between the tanks.
Back to the main harness from the bars. Hiding the wires on a conventional hydraulic front end is pretty easy, just drill a hole or two in the top triple tree and route the wire down the neck and frame. Like this.
A springer is different. The top tree is tiny and routing the wires through it means they lay really close to the springs and risk a pinch for sure.
So my plan was adjusted to run the right side handlebar wires to the right of the neck and backbone and the left wires on the left. The exposed parts of the wiring I will cover with shrink wrap.
This is better. Hopefully a lot better with the tanks on. I'm only using re-useable zip ties at this point for sure.
Here's everything for the left side, to include the voltmeter from the middle of the bars. And yes, despite my efforts to have everything clearly color coded, I have big duplication of wire colors; black and black with white paired wire set for both the horn and the voltmeter.
Luckily the voltmeter wires are easily identified. A 9 volt battery will light it up, but won't hurt the horn button wires if you check them the same way.
Here's the left side cleaned up.
At this point I think I ran out of connectors again and then I tried to install solid riser bushings on the springer and that didn't work out because I had the wrong kit. Remember this?