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Tear it up Fix it Repeat

Tear it up Fix it Repeat

Content Posted by Tear it up Fix it Repeat

Primary Put Together

Alright, time to make some progress on the shovelhead.

The motor is in loosely with no primary between the motor and the transmission. The transmission is still bolted in tight.  To get everything lined up, I tightened all the transmission plate bolts and loosened all the nuts on the transmission studs.  This will let my transmission move while we work.


The next goal is to loose the front motor bolts and torque down the rear mount bolts. For whatever reason the Delkron cases and this frame don't really allow proper torquing of the rear nuts so you have to do something like this.


The next thing I did was check the gap under the front motor mounts to see if shims are needed. They haven't been required before with these cases in this frame, but there's no reason not to check. I couldn't get a 0.0015 feeler gage in the gap so I will say we are good to go.


We can actually torque these now.


Now tighten the head bolts to the top mount.  Again, I don't have the torque adapter I need to do this. So we just tightened them good and tight. Make sure the shims between the frame and mount fit up nice and tight.


This one is an easy torque.


This is where we had to back up. I forgot that my regulator mount goes under the front of the motor. We also looked for like a half hour trying to find my new regulator only to realize that I left it at Longbow Customs when we were working on it there.


We'll just put this on like this for now and I'll put the regulator on when I get it back.


Now on to the motor plate. It's my understanding with a stock inner primary with a chain, you bolt the loose transmission to the inner primary and bolted down engine. The belt setup is different, because you have to adjust tension of the belt before you bolt the plate down tight.


We just snugged everything for now.


The top belt guard goes on before the clutch shell. We had a heck of time getting it all to line up for some reason. Then the clutch shell and the 52 long bearings.


Retainer plate next.


Clutch plate stack up.


Tada! Pressure plates and springs mean we are done for the day. The pushrod screw is adjusted, but we'll need to adjust the nuts on the studs once we are actually ready to get this thing running again.


A huge shout out to this guy. RevChong spent most of Saturday hanging out and helping. The moral support was the biggest part. I have really been uninspired to get this bike back together for way too long.


Jeff Williams 20th Annual Oklahoma City Bike Show and Swapmeet: Part 3





PLEASE MAKE THIS NONSENSE STOP. IT DOESN'T LOOK COOL AND YOU STILL CAN'T RIDE IT CROSS COUNTRY ANY BETTER THAN A RIGID CHOP.






























More information on Carb'ed Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Fuel Pumps

This isn't my usual step by step blog. This is more of an informational blog about everything I learned about Carb'ed Kawasaki Fuel Pumps this time.


The first good news is that unlike the last time I had to replace one of these, there are now aftermarket alternatives to the $300 OEM Kawasaki pumps. I got one for like $25 delivered. It might not be as good as OEM, but for $25 I will buy a spare and keep it in the saddlebag.


The first bad thing about the aftermarket pump is that the inlet is not clearly marked. I discovered that you can blow into one fitting and if it blows out the other then that's the inlet. There is a check valve that makes this thing work.

The next bad part is that you can actually hear this one running. The tick tick is the pump. Initially when it was dry, it was really loud. I believe there is some kind of sensor for it to know when to pump at a higher frequency hence the irregular pattern to the sound. The other thing I realized today was that the pump is a reciprocating pump, I had assumed it was rotary pump like a oil pump. More on this further is this post.


This brings be back to something I had forgotten from the last time I replaced one of these pumps. These universal points switch repair kits are readily available online, but I have never found any instructions on how they work or how to install them.

 


I decide to figure out how to swap the points switch since my old pump was junk anyway. Let me tell you that prying these halves apart is not the way to fix one of these



You get a good look at the how the pump works though. The fuel never goes deeper than the 1/3 of the pump body where the inlet/outlet are. There is a reciprocating rod that pushes a diaphragm back and forth. The diaphragm pulls fuel in and pushes the fuel through the check valve and towards the carb.


The point switch is under the black cap. I thought so initially, but I couldn't figure out how to remove it until I just destroyed it. There is a screw that holds it together, but where is the head for the screw? Here's a look at the point switch and the chip that I assume controls the pressure. The coil that makes the magnetic field is inside the housing. I have no idea if a switch kit could have fixed this one.


The screw head has to be hidden under this glued on cover.


I decided to drill into the cover to see what I could find. As soon as my bit hit the head of the screw, the plastic cover popped off. I would suppose that the glue is not real thick, so if you're repairing one you could carefully cut the glue seam with an exacto knife to access the screw and remove the cap.





Kawasaki 1500/1600 Long Reach Spark Plug Boot Replacement

So I was looking at my 2002 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic's sparkplugs and boots, and noticed that the plugs with the tubes, (left front and right rear) had nasty corrosion. Obviously the drains don't drain all that well. 


Luckily the boots are replaceable with NGK Stock number 8062. My local O'Reilley's got me two really quick.


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