Are these real magnesium? Some are - some aren't I believe? A couple different versions. The can make any bike look good - especially the "ready for a street fight" lookin' shovelheads ! (Click Photo for LARGE View)
I've decided to run this bike to Sturgis this year. It will be it's 6th trip in 7 years. Fuel every 50-70 miles (depending on towns with gas stations). If I'm in a hurry, I just leave it running, swipe a card, and 1.5 or 1.6 or 1.7 gallons later . . . I'm rollin' outta there !
I checked all the fluids (really clean !), did a "nut & bolt" check with all the wrenches on the entire bike. I took the primary cover off (no belt dust) and just looked over the belt, checked a couple things, everything good. I run a Diamond chain, and I shot 3 kinds of lube all over it - then chain wax at the end. Don't really like chain wax 'cause it's white, and looks like shit - so I wiped most of it back off. They throw out little cans of chain lube at the bike shows (I don't know why, since most runs belts anyway?) so I usually get one for the trip home.
I just ride this thing pretty normal - and nice. It runs the old style "roller" lower end (no Timken) and it's just been a great engine. No burnouts, No poppin' the clutch, No powershifts. It'll do a steady 75mph all day long - and last time I went on this trip I rode it almost 750miles in one day. Pretty good for a '52 rigid frame chopper.
Brake fluid is full and clean. It's my only brake, so it'd better work, right? Tires good, check the spokes, axle nuts, brake nut, axle adjusters . . . and my chain guard is spring/bolt mounted (like factory) so my oil tank don't crack, and stuff doesn't break - it's worked good so far.
This Super E has just been the best. I can't even remember what jets I run, but a suspect a 29.5 and a 70 or 72 Main? I've had the carb for years. I sanded the body for polishing, but then left it as is...since it looks cool. We've been through a lot together, on multiple bikes, multiple miles.
My ol' friend Lil' Joe (from Las Vegas) molded the frame, tank, everything . . . and painted it. It has took direct hits from the biggest rocks, and some huge bugs - and never chipped. The bondo has not cracked (partially due to Jeff Wiley's dynamic balancing of my stock flywheels). Lil' Joe PAINT with Noot WRENCH . . . Wish me luck - but with the good Lord on my side, and a smile on my face, I'll try to see some sights and have some fun - and share it with you later. Not everyone has the time or money to go on a trip like this - and each year I dedicate my run to those we've lost, and to those less fortunate - and try to spread some cheer to all I meet. Respectfully, -Noot
The Right Stuff gasket maker by Permatex is the best solution for sealing up your pan covers. I put a small bead around the head, smooth it with my finger, attach the James gasket (I like the medium thickness dark gray ones), then smear a bit more (especially on the low sides - front and rear, then add the covers, maybe just wiggle 'em around a bit, line up the holes, add the D-Ring . . . then snug 'em down (starting on the low sides) evenly all the way. Clean up the squeezed excess with Brake Kleen - then retorque after you run the bike some. Best way I've found to seal 'em . . .
This is a '48FL I been workin' on for about 2 years. We need an FL plumber-type intake manifold(3 3/8" length) and a Timer Head for those 2-piece points(like a Chevy 6 takes...) then we could run a good condenser, like a Blue Streak or Zenith. A '48/'49 actually had a steel manifold that was welded and smoothed out, but a bit later cast manifold would work for now . . .
This ol' 52K is one of my favorite motorcycles I've ever had . . . but they sure are weird. I mean what super genius came up with angled valves for better flow, and instead of angling the tappets - lets just angle the cam lobes - ground at 3 degree angle all the way around on exhaust and 1.5 degrees on the intakes??? What the heck?
I did have an old timer tell me that Sportster P grind cams work good in Ks and KHs . . and they ran 'em all the time for racing. I asked, "What about the cam follower rollers riding on straight lobed cams? The wheels would just ride on one edge? He said is did wear 'em out, but had less friction, like riding on a knife edge . . . and just for 20 laps around the track. I've never tried it . . .
. . . and '52-'53 crank pins/right flywheels press in with a key to help lock it - and line up the oil hole. Save money on nuts, locks, and screws? This actually ain't a bad system. It came back with the Twin Cams.
The DC-11 is an oddball. They say it's for an XLR, but the more I research, it's just a replacement carburetor for any of the other DC-6,7,10, etc. Anyway, I've had one for years. I took it all apart and compared with a bunch of other DCs...and I can't find anything different - except someone had silver soldered the #4 jet shut, and redrilled it smaller. I replaced it with a standard #4 (which is .057 hole) My float bowl was leaking, so I took it back off to reseal...and I thought, "I should just put that smaller jet in, see what it does." Well, I was surprised - after a few screw adjustments - this thing now rips ! That jet does nothing more but feed fuel to passage regulated by that fuel screw up above(on top) that should be adjusted 1 1/2-2 1/2 turns out(w/#4 jet). Now I need to run that screw at 4 1/2 to 5 turns out. I see there's a #1 Jet (.052) available. Maybe try one in your own DC if you're crazy enough to run one...and see what happens. Next time I take my bowl off, I'll get the jet drills and see what size it is for sure . . .
Got this panhead running decent now. I built a set of early heads (w/o-ring intake adapters). Runnin' 1/8" oversize nitrite valves with cast iron guides. Andrews springs set up to .550 travel and 1.340 installed height. Andrews #1 low compression cam. I like the Andrews 31, but in the stroker with increased compression - I'm getting some pinging at low speeds, and in high gear when tryin' to get with it . . . I set of the heads for an Andrews B or Leineweber L3S - so changes can be made without more valve spring set-up.
I built this bike for vintage touring - trying to use all H-D parts, ie: frame, engine, tanks, sheet metal, etc. Even if it had a dent, I still used it. Original H-D USA over ___________. (well you know) I had a couple sets of aftermarket tanks, and they just didn't fit right - so I picked up these original 1954 tanks, dash plate and dash, all bought separately - and everything bolted right on - no shims and plenty of time left for an ice cold High Life !