Photos stolen from BaRon's blog and DICE Magazine. This build is really neat - about everything about it - I like it a lot . . .
I like the front wheel, rear fender, frame molding, high shoulder rims, paint color, mural . . . it's just a bitchin' build. I might shorten the sissy bar and lean it back a bit...and ditch the CV carburetor for an SU or Linkert...but, hey - it's not my bike - and I don't think it's for sale - and if it was, I probably couldn't afford it. Hats off to one sweet ride.
After repairing the engine cases, machining, measuring, etc. Almost every part on the engine has required attention. The motor was assembled when I received it, but the parts mirrored "swap meet specials" haphazardly assembled. The ball bearing construction appears easy to conquer...but now you're dealing with hand-press-fit on everything. It's very difficult to align the cam timing marks when each cam is pressed into position. There are so many particulars that need addressed when assembling an engine of this nature. Basically, it's got to be perfect, or it won't run at all. This is the 5th ball bearing-type engine I've built (with my dad too) - and we still spend about as much time reading, as we do building the motor.
The magneto is a horizontally mounted Wico Single Fire type unit. The ignition timing is best set by location of the piston to TDC...then verify the timing actual timing mark on the flywheel. On the earlier WRs, once the gear cover is on...you can't change your timing from the outside, since the magneto is bolted solid to the case. No rotation. The Wico cap has a #1 which indicates the REAR(or #1 cylinder) and the spark plug wires must be installed correctly.
I updated the sprocket shaft seal (from the steel reverse thread seal) to a modern type rubber-lip seal. The seal kit (from Colony) is the same as a Big Twin seal, since the sprocket shaft in a WR is the same diameter as a panhead....but runs the larger 25mm ID ball bearing. A #1205 ball bearing to be exact: 25mm x 52mm x 15mm Superblend-type bearing.
The lower pump has been checked over, blasted, washed and inspected. I painted it my special cast iron gray, installed, with breather timed. I bumped the breather ahead 1 tooth, since the piston was already about 2" down in the cylinder before it started opening (via timing mark). By one tooth advanced, the breather window opens just after TDC - to get that crankcase evacuated of pressurized air a bit sooner.
Take the tried and true and trusted reliability of the 45" and make it bigger !
The K Model and KH Model
Take the basic good points and mannerisms of the flathead, unitize the engine block with the transmission, and add a healthy dose of cams, racing style carburetion, pop-up pistons and smoothed ports . . and hold on !
Let's go Overhead !
Since 1936 - it's been the King of the Road for the H-D line. Highly sought by collectors and retro chopper fiends...The Knucklehead in all it's glory.
The Beauty Queen . . . The Panhead
Arguably the engine that put H-D on the map. Reliability and beauty at the same time. The subject of songs, movies and the dream to just have one in the garage with your name on the title (even if it runs or not) I just don't know why they never made it an 80 incher.....
The Tough Guy !
The end result of all it's forefathers . . . The Shovelhead kept the company's (no pun intended) head afloat and lost credo to the Evo as the savior. But, ask any die hard old-timer wrench-n-rider and they'd rather run their shovel than the Evo any day.
It's taken many years, but it's early respect has morphed into the historical respect it deserves. The "rock" of the H-D engine line - It's finally becoming a collector in it's own right. Long live the Evo and welcome to the club !
I can see it now....I'm gonna end up with an S&S air cleaner on everything. I made up another "B" series backing plate to adapt to my "E" series carburetor.... and it just rips now ! All kinds of response, and it just runs better (than the Linkert style, 7" round style). That round air cleaner didn't like wind or rain much either - but I've never had a problem with the S&S teardrop in those conditions. Now just need some nice weather. I'm still riding short runs, so I fulfilled my 2017 goal again of riding every month.
He looks tiny on this thing. Not a real big guy anyway, just stocky and strong. Looks like it's got aluminum rims? Anyone know what sauce pan they used to make air-cleaners out of ??? A guy told me once, and I should have wrote it down.
Every bike I've had pretty much started out like this. A box of stuff, missing about everything. My first bike was wrecked with broken cases. The next one was all apart, but most original H-D parts. From there on out, they were all in piles, or missing about everything 'cept the vital pieces. Above is the '54 Panhead. You sure learn a lot when you do it this way. Much more than a guy realizes . . . I could probably afford a complete bike now - but why start ?
I got a deep, dry basement. It's got neat rustic walls. I run a dehumidifier all summer so it stays dry. There's not much down there but a few folding tables where I keep some parts for future builds. I've sold all my parts (except for the K Model stuff, and a few spares). I never really had all that much for parts anyway.
That plastic bag has the Eastern Motorcycle Parts spring spacers I'll use to set up the valve springs for a set of KK cams I have collected. These are nice spacers to use, since they have a small lip on top that fits into the valve spring and helps center it on the guide, and hold it in place. I'll measure my installed spring height, then subtract my cam lift (and .070). Then I'll subtract the length of my spring at coil bind. This will leave me with the proper length to make my spacer/shim for that particular valve. I used my Valve Spring Tester to check my springs, and I'll run the 2 strongest on the exhaust valves.