Now I'm running those Alto Red clutch fibers (wet). I soaked them overnight, then lightly wiped 'em off. I left the clutch basket cover off. The clutch in this thing has always been touchy as hell. Tiny adjustments make big differences - dragging or slipping in high under acceleration. Better hit neutral before you stop type-o-deal. Just a little draggy. As the clutch warms up - there goes any free play you had at the lever - not good. After a lot of testing, I can live with it now. I made a "clutch cable luber" from a piece of rubber hose - and ran everything from Motion Pro Cable Lube, DuPont Chain Lube, a shot of Lincoln Spray Grease - and finally some lube from a 30 year old can of genuine Harley-Davidson chain lube . . . which works perfect since it dribbles out (with no pressure in the can shooting back at you from the straw). Now it works a bit better. Wiley has a genuine H-D clutch cable for me, and I'm getting it soon - gotta get this bike working for The Meltdown Drag Run.
Ultra dark shield on the Simpson Street Bandit is so I can ride across town and not have to wave at everybody . . . small town life. They know who I am anyway.
This style of saddlebag was first offered in 1954. I believe they were designed by William Harley, and he patented his design? I bought the bags(without lids) for $75/pair since they had holes, and were all beat to shit. Using sheet metal, old sign material, license plate metal, pop rivets and Gorilla tape . . . they are now solid. I sealed the seams with gasket maker - then lined the bags with speaker cabinet carpet(when I was in a rock band for 3 months) and 3M spray fixative.. They look crusty from the outside, but nice and soft on the inside. Ready for your leather jacket, clothes, camera or a bag of chips and cookies.
PS. Last night I sprayed 'em with the garden hose all over to see if they'd leak - Nope ! But we all know a garden hose ain't no match for Mother Nature....
This motor came with .325 lift cams (stock are more like .318 or .320) so, I'm not sure if they're a later model camshaft? Hmmm? I went with my patented cast-iron-gray high heat paint on the iron parts. It will run an FM magneto. This motor will power a TROG-ish, period race-type 45 with original frame and springer.
All tappet faces were resurfaced on the valve grinder stem attachment. WR/early XLCH solid mount magneto base plate.
I keep the exhaust valve seat "on the wide side." I've read where a wide seat on the exhaust helps dissipate heat when the valve is shut . . . cooling the valve. I could easily cut a 60 and a 30 and narrow the seat, but I'll leave it wide. The 60 takes away material (which a guy might need for future valve jobs on this old iron) !
Above: I refer to this SHOP DOPE update when fitting lower end rollers on big twins and 45s.
This motor was supplied with the wrong cages. I had the correct steel cages as per the information supplied, so I'll update accordingly. I have a good stash of NOS Sonnax rollers, and the perfect +.0002 set for his pinion race. All good, but tedious work.
Above: I try different flywheel thrust washers to achieve correct endplay. This is done by bolting the cases together multiple times, and re-checking the end play. More tedious work !
Above: I have a place on this heavy steel bench to bolt(and clamp) flathead cylinders for cutting valve seals and lapping. These reproduction cylinder kits always need honed, and seat work done to be right. No exceptions here. More tedious work......