So I catch some grief for putting a speedo drive in my transmission when I wasn't going to use it to drive a speedo. It seems that unused speedo drives aren't water tight. So I found this cover set-up on ebay. I would think there is a Harley number for something similar, but I couldn't find it.


This o-ring will seal things nice and tight.


Plenty of blue loctite to seal up the threads.


It came with this stainless steel socket. If you were ambitious to make this set-up cleaner, then you should trim the overhang and get a button head screw to match.


The torn out slinger had been replaced and a new one spot welded to the clutch pushrod.




The heat and placement of the weld made the face no longer flat and square. That's a problem for bearing that needs to run here. We filed and sanded the surface flat again and socket and hammer to massage it back square.


Here's the throw out bearing stack up. Thrust washer, bearing and bushing, thrust washer, and snap ring.


Thrust washer number one.


Bearing and bushing next.


Top thrust washer.


The snap ring groove here.


Install snap ring.




Oil everything up and the shaft, too.


Slide the pushrod slinger bearing assembly into the mainshaft.


I'm not sharing pictures of the rest of the day. We went to torque the kicker shaft nut, which happens to be the part as countershaft nut and pulled the nut's threads. Déjà vu. The kickershaft threads were toast, too. It was actually lucky because somehow we had missed these nasty worn out busted up teeth on the kicker crank gear. Replacing this now will save my knee later. Back to waiting on parts.

This is how to build a front sprocket socket for a 4 or 5 speed Harley transmissions. It's equilavent to Harley Part Number HD-94660-37B. The basics of making one of these at home has been shown a million times, but I wanted to include the extra lathe work to remove the chamfer for the standard 1 7/8 socket. That chamfer helps the socket slide onto a standard nut, but it makes the socket want to slip of the thin sprocket nut.

The work, the pictures, and the rest of this post come courtesy of Columbus(Warpig62). He's good with tools and a blackberry, but can't figure out how to blog anything.

Here are the pieces laid out- one 1 and 7/8" socket; one piece 3" 3/16 wall tube x 6" long


So you lop off the Socket along a lateral point. This particular one had 2 lines around it making it pretty easy



You then face edge you cut- remember the nut you are trying to get on is only about 3/8" thick so if you don't you will either apply uneven force to the nut or not get on it solid enough to apply the appropriate torque.




So while it's a close fit, the outer diameter of the socket is about a 1/16" smaller than the inner diameter of the tube. So- I used pipe cleaners to center the socket ends in the tube. Be sure to check that you are even around the diameter. The closer the better but EXACT does not have to be the only option






So now either put the whole thing in the toaster over in the garage (handy for this sort of thing or making a snack) if you use your wife's kitchen oven, be sure to make sure all your parts were clean 1st or A) she WiLL be pissed and B) your next couple of meals will taste funny! Heat the parts to about 350 and start to weld


Will this handle a tranny nut---yeah. Maybe over kill a bit but- hey, it only cost me $30 to make as opposed to the factory cost. One of the local Indy suppliers said he could get me one for $100.... I like mine just the same.

These Trail 70's are interesting bikes. I was going to build mine from the ground up like I would a regular bike. Make the frame into a roller and then add the motor. After reading a bit on ground up building on the lilhonda.com board, it seems most folks start with the motor and build around it. Generally a milk crate is a good motor stand to start working from. Since I was needing to clear the good motor of the workbench and the bike stand and locked motor off the shop floor, I had another plan. The bike stand when back onto my tablesaw/router.This thing will probably be overbuild, but I'm going to be building at least one more Trail 70 so figured I would need this again for sure.

This is motorstand and it will be the basic idea for my build up stand on my bike stand.  I won't use it, because I will still need a motorstand to hold my locked motor for a bit.


Six 4 inch sections of 2X4's.


Two 14 inch pieces for the base.


Clamp together with a 4 3/4 inch spacer.


Attach with deck screws.


Measure the outside dimensions.


Cut two more sides and layout the next level.



Here's all three levels laid out. I'mgoing with mending plates between the levels and securing the stand to the plywood with L-brackets. I'll need to unscrew the L-brackets when I get the wheels attached and I'm ready to put the bike on the ground.

I'm think about 34 inches to back support will put the bike about were it needs to set on the bike stand.


That looks pretty good, but the motor is not quite balanced and wants to fall with just a little bump.


So I decided a front support is needed.



Good motor and bad motor both have a home now and I should be able to work on my bench for a bit before I build the motorcycle around the good motor.


All the parts for bike are just chilling over here in these tubs. Now to really get to work.

These Trail 70 wheel are another unique piece of motorcycle parts. The split rims and seperate hubs are something I haven't played with before and something you can screw up easy enough. There are no front and rear rims, but there are front and rear hubs and definately a right and left to everything.

The right rim is the place to start. A right rim has the hole for the valve stem and the have a deeper offset.

Lay the right rim down on the bench and put the left half on it.


The front hub sets on the left side with the brake and nut holders out like this. This was just for planning sake because the tube and tire have to go on before the wheel goes together.


Pop the right half into the tire.


Find the hole for the valve stem(tip of middle finger). Put the stem through the hole. Bend stems aren't stock, but cheaper and functional.


Work the tube into the tire.


Flip the wheel to make sure this looks good.


Flip again and align the holes(big with big and little with little) of the left rim with the holes on the right rim and push the left rim into the tire. DO NOT push the left rim into the tire and expect the rim and expect to be able to slide the rim into alignment. Trust me.


Here's the wheel hardware. Four little sets and four bigger sets.


The little ones hold the wheel together. Coming from the right side; bolt, flat washer, lock washer, and nut.


Ensure the you haven't pinched the tube between and snug the hardware


The big sets hold the rims and the hub together. The hub lays on the left side of the rims and the nut goes into the hub. The bolt and lockwasher come in from the right side.


Flip the wheel and tighten the bolts.


I couldn't find a torque spec so I smoked everything down with only a quarter inch ratchet. Hopefully that's tight enough, and I can't break anything with the little ratchet


Now to the rest of the front hub and our old friend the speedo gear.
Amazingly I haven't lost this tiny screw. I need to check the threads for it after the powdercoat though.


Fits fine.


Grease the gear.


Into the housing.


This piece is a tightish fit and you need to align the set screw notch with the hole from the start for sure.


It needs just a little squeeze and it's tough to get a good push on.


Hole and notch aligned.


Set screw in.


Grease everything and put the big gear in.


The powdercoat on the inside made this a bit tight.


The stand offs from the gear fit into these slots in the hub.


Temp install the plate and whack it to fully seat the gear.


Take it back apart and the seal here.


This screw and sealing washer go here. I'm not sure what this does, but I think it's a grease port. Yeah that screw is ugly when everything else looks nice.


Brake cam.


Grease and install it.


Wrestle the new brake shoes on and try not to get grease on them.



Use brake cleaner to clean all the greasy fingerprints you got on the brake shoes.


Well this was an oops. The dot on the cam should line up with the dot on the lever. So the cam is 180 degrees out, but it should work just fine, because I don't want to reinstall the shoes again.


Still lined up, just not together.


Bolt, washer, and funny nut go like this.


Good stopping point. I still need to halfway inflate the tube to get it set. Then full inflate it and whack the tire until the bead is set. And there's a bearing seals the needs to be installed on the right end of the hub. Otherwise the front wheel is good to go.

I usually give all the pictures and details of everything that goes wrong when I'm building something, but I'm not going to this time. The short story is when we went to torque the kicker shaft nut, which happens to be the part as countershaft nut and pulled the nut's threads. Déjà vu. The kickershaft threads were toast, too. It was actually lucky because somehow we had missed these nasty worn out busted up teeth on the kicker crank gear. Replacing this now will save my knee later.




KevJer donated a good crank gear, I bought a new kickershaft, 16 tooth starter gear, mainshaft kicker tab washer, new kickershaft nut, and key washer. I've put this post together as how-to and not truely a documentary, so some of these pictures still show the old crank gear with the round stop and some show the new gear with the squarish stop and one missing non-critial rivet.

Here's a little bit of the backing up to go over. It's also good to show how to replace the starter gear without a full transmission teardown.

This nut needs to come off. So unbend the tab washer.


An impact got this one of just fine without the need to lock the transmission up.


The starter clutch, key, and starter gear need to come off off the taper. Remember this?
Now go crawl around on the floor until you find the key that flew off with the gears.

I was real curious as to how a 16 tooth and 14 tooth starter gear could both mate up to same crank gear. They both work fine, but the 16 tooth is suppose to easier to kick. We shall see.




Starter gear goes here.


Key goes here. Remember there's an up and down to it for it to fit.


Starter Clutch gear, tab washer, and nut go on. How we going to lock up the transmission to torque the nut when the lid is already installed?


If you put the transmission in first and plastic primary chain wedge nicely right here.


Torquing the nut is not a problem.


Bend the tabwasher.




Re-install the pushrod assembly.


Kicker cover and pieces all laid out.


This has most of the parts shown, but I wasn't able to get any diagrams with the clutch release related hardware. Given the mod's to this cover with the bushings and seals already in place I omitted those from this diagrams as well.



Fill plug(1) threads into the cover(2).


The clutch release parts laid out. (L to R) Clutch release finger stud, clutch fingers, thrust washers, and e-clip. This set-up goes with the heavy duty aftermarket cover. So I don't know it if it stacks exactly the same as a stocker, but it should be close.


Stud goes through the cover, the finger, thrust washer, another boss in the cover, and thrust washer.


E-clip goes here to hold it all together.


Kicker spring stop(4) goes here.


Kicker shaft thrust washer(5) goes here.


Oil up the kicker shaft(7) and install it.


Work the spring(6) on.


Roll the spring and shaft until the spring end finds the stop.


Install the crank gear. With the spring hook touching it's stop on the outside, the crank gear stop should be foward and up from the straight down(when installed on bike) position in the cover.


Tabwasher(9).


Nut(10).


Hold the flats of the kicker shaft outside the cover and torque the nut.


Bend the tab washer.



Why not bend two.


We're not quite ready to install the cover, but this is a good time to show how the stops and springs would together so your kicker will return to straight up and down after you kick it.

The crank gear stop is marked with the arrow on the left and place it should rest is marked with the arrow on the right.


To make this work, get a wrench on the flats of the shaft.


Rotate the shaft so the stop of the gear finds it's resting spot in the case. You should be working against the spring and this point. This is the tension that will put your kicker arm back up straight every time. I'll do a video of this when I do my final install.


Meanwhile this is when I discover that this hole seriously needs a heli-coil repair. That would have been easier to fix on a bare case before I build the transmission. Getting closer, but it's always something.

To put a helicoil in the case I need to drill out the hole straight and in the correct spot. I suppose some folks could hand drill it straight enough and hope the bit followed the old hole. I'm too anal, not brave enough, or not good enough to do it that way. I wanted to use my drill press, but it's not an easy shape to hold down, especially when the transmission is already built up. My first plan was to use my support box like this and use nuts on the primary studs to level the transmission.


The support box was too small for my little drill press table. So I called Columbus for idea support. He came through with a good one. 1X4 lumber built like this. Mainshaft through the hole and sprocket on the wood.



12 inches long and marked for 2 3/4 inside square.


I even have some cool clamps to use.(I didn't get a picture of the finished jig.)


I had temp installed the cover and gasket, so that's got to come apart.


Lots of blue tape to keep the chips out of the gear box and then find the hole.


Well the jig is not right yet. The rachet top is keeping it unlevel and off the sprocket on one end.


Remove the offending piece.


The jig is still in the way of getting the hole centered under the chuck.


More cutting of the jig and it's perfect.


Clamping everything down was a trick for sure.


I found a transfer punch that fit the hole and then centered the hole to the chuck.


Time to drill. (I'm nervous as a cat at this point.)


Not bad, I wonder if it's perpendicular to the correct datum plane and if its true position is within spec at maximum material condition.


I don't have a dead center so a center should do okay.


Taped and ready for the helicoil.


The bolt holds good.


Break off the tang of the helicoil. (If you have a craftsman screwdriver, then you have a punch, right?)


Good to go.


Back to building. My cover uses bolts not studs but I use 5/16-18 set screws as alignment pins.


Those hold the gasket for me and it won't slip.


Pull out the slinger and catch the crank gear behind it. Turn the the kicker shaft and put the stop where you need it.


Check the video.


Cover is on.


Add the bolts.


Pull the set screws. Add all the bolts and then torque them to spec. This sucker is ready to go back into the frame.

I thought I finally had this deal beat, but Steve73FLH made the call before I verified it with a bench check. The spring is not right and the kicker arm doesn't always return to the top. Luckily I hadn't torqued down the bolts or filled it with oil yet either. I have done this wrong before, too. If the kicker engages while you're riding, bad things happen.


These instructions and every one have read on Shovelhead.us haven't quite made sense to me for sure. Steve helped me understand the method better and hopefully the pictures I have here will help others not do this twice.


This is where the too loose spring slot in the shaft is with everything installed.


I pulled the cover off and the spring off to inspect the alignment. This is wrong.


I unbent the tab washer, removed the nut, then rotated the crank gear one flat. This got the crank gear stop and the spring slot on the same flat.


This is the spring slot(and gear stop) location prior to install with an unloaded spring.


This is how it looks going on. The install is the same as my other post about it.


This is the new location of the spring slot with everything installed. I did a temp install and the bench checks of the kicker arm were flawless.


I'm going to go over another thing that could be screwed up. The gasket will go on wrong. If it looks like this then flip it over to get it right.




Okay now the back to where we were.


Now we can torque the bolts. Couldn't find a good value so I went with 12 ft-lbs.


Now we are ready for the frame.

Time to get to this hole in the frame filled. Columbus came over to help. He didn't sit still for very long at all.


I was trying to remember how to get this back together. The oil filter and buddy pegs make things a trick for sure. First we removed the back plate bolts.


We then swung the plate out to the left.


I held the peg and Columbus dropped the transmission onto the plate.


With the studs in the slots of the plate, we could swing the whole mess back into place.


This is the main part that I was dreading. It was a ton easier with Columbus' help. Thanks again.


Back plate bolts here.


Front plate bolts here.
 

Start into the primary side.


Bearing support plate.


Washers, lockwashers, nuts, and key in place.


Slide the clutch hub on then give it a whack to seat it.


New seal for the hub nut and drive it in.


New tab washer.


Nut goes on. LEFT HANDED THREADS.


Attached holder tool and find the proper socket.


Tighten the nuts on transmission studs to hold it still for torquing the hub nut.


Torque spec.


Then we figured out that my big torque wrench doesn't work going to the left.


We got it plenty tight, but were a bit concerned that the hub was not far enough onto the mainshaft taper.


We used to grease to see how far it fit and if it was square.


Then we looked at the old shaft and it was about the same, so that's fine.


Columbus had to leave and I had other chores to do so we stopped. The main thing was getting the transmission into the frame with some help. I should be able to handle the rest by myself.