What colors does the Gringo come in?

That's easy: Gloss Black, Flat Black, Gloss Orange, Gloss Antique White and Flat Titanium

Is the Gringo helmet DOT approved?

Yes, The Gringo is DOT approved.

 Are you going to introduce a novelty version of the Gringo helmet?

No, and here's why: Novelty helmets exist to help style-conscious bikeriders avoid the astronaut look so common with open-face helmets. Because full-face helmets have a chin bar that obscures the rider's face, the astronaut factor is greatly minimized. People who buy full-face helmets are doing so for safety, so a novelty full face doesn't make sense.


Will Biltwell goggles and bubble shields work with the Gringo helmet?

Yes. See photos for proof. Peripheral vision in the Gringo meets or exceeds DOT standards, but motocross goggles have a tendency to reduce the rider's peripheral vision do to limitations inherent in their design. If you like the look of a retro-inspired full face like the Gringo with MX goggles, please keep this in mind. Peripheral vision is more important on a street bike than it is on the motocross track, where most of the action happens in the rider's line of sight. On a street bike, shit's going down everywhere, and you need to see it. If safety is your number one priority, there are few safer or better-looking setups than our bubble shield on a Gringo.
 

I'm in the process of dumping a questionable Hi-4 ignition system in favor of a Dyna-S. When I first built this bike I had drew up my wiring diagram for future reference and troubleshooting. My original wiring had changed so much, with adding things and taking things out that didn't quite work as planned, that my wires didn't look anything like my original drawing anymore. So I redid to match my new lay out.

Yes, it's more complicated that it has to be to run, but I like it. I like fuses for each circuit to isolate things if there's a problem. The RUB-static Kuryakan voltmeter tells me when the regulator comes unplugged. The neutral light should him me until I get my jockey shifting figured out. I drew this up on Microsoft Powerpoint and I like the way it turned out.

So I'm still running this goofy 35mm dual disk narrow glide converted to wide glide with an aftermarket triple tree and spacer kit. I would swap it out, but something else always takes my money and the goofiness of it is something to talk about. At any rate Ed and I got to looking at the wheel bearings and spacers and those all need attention. I noticed that all the pads were good except the inboard left pad was metal to metal. It didn't seem to drag last I checked, but I think the rotor needs moved out a bit.

I bought a 0.025 inch sheet of aluminum at the hardware to build spacers out of.

Measure up my holes.



Clamp the metal with a sacrifical board to my drill press table. Then go to work with my circle cutter. Outside diameter first.


Pretty decent. I think slowing the drill speed will help with that hang-up spot.


I also figured out that clamping more like this would help reduce the amount of flex that happened as I cut the sheet metal.


Here are a couple of good starts.


I was at a lose as to how to clamp the circles down to cut out the donut holes. Luckily my cousin Paul was helping and he had the idea to use screws and washers to clamp the circles to board and then clamp the board to the drill press table.


That worked well.


So all that's left to dp are the bolt holes. The true position of the holes is not critical, so I used a screw and washer through one hole to attach it to a board and then used the spacer as a drill guide.



Not real pretty and not perfect, but they should function fine. De-burr the edges for safety sake.