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Double Vision: Dual Engine Triumph Race Bike Update


I have been working on this bike non-stop the last six weeks, and it has caused me to empathize with people who have chosen the life of the recluse, leaving behind friends and family for a sole pursuit. I am not there myself, but I am looking through the keyhole and I feel as though I have come to some sort of understanding about that sort of thing though I rather wouldn't. But I digress; it has been a couple months since I updated photos of the build, which has since changed names from Milwaukee Murderer to Double Vision.


Special sprockets. This here is what joins the power of the motors by linking the crankshafts.


Oil tank in progress. Made a wood buck out of MDF and hammered annealed 5003 aluminum to make the face and dished back. Thanks to Jay Roche @ Special 79 for some tech posts on his blog which helped me out. This tank consumed at least 3 full days of my life, and I mean full days, but it is the nicest thing I have ever made.


Sometimes simple things are the best, I really like the way these fender mounts turned out.


This primary guard involved a really large MDF buck and plenty of time. I feel as though I welded miles of aluminum building this bike. Turned down a circle of MDF in my lathe, routed the edge over and hammered the dish over the clutch basket area. 1/2" strip welded to that to bring it out a bit more, and the face and sides all welded up while clamped to the wood buck to keep it in shape. Mounts to 9/16" stainless round bar that is welded to the stainless motor plates. Should be up to tech for Bonneville in August.


More aluminum, chain guard and number plates. This was a little while ago and was about the end of the major fab work. I subsequently tore the bike down to the bare frame and finish welded everything. More pics to come soon... ?

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Commented on 6-9-2013 At 10:49 pm
 

Awesome detail. Thanks

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Future dates and locations at:
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Finishing the Speed Dealers Customs Switchbox installation

It's time to make the connections on these switchboxes.


Yes, I am always doing things the hard way and learning what would be easier next time. So I bought 16 gauge wire and should have done 20 gauge. I'm trying to do the solder connections on the bike by myself. I'm doing a mechanical connection and solder connection with one wire that is too big. Next time, do the connections on the bench with smaller wire and better holding tools or some help.

Be sure to put the shrink wrap on the wire before soldering the joint.(That's an old lesson.)


Man this was tough and slow.


Pull the shrink wrap down.


It's always a good idea to do a buzz box continuity check on a switch once you've finished soldering the wires.


 Next lesson, don't make straight joints, I really don't like the way those will rub inside the bars. ugh.


Tried to save this switch, but getting the solder flowing and the mechanical joint apart by myself just wasn't happening. Luckily, I picked up spares of all the switches when the local Radio Shack closed up and had everything on clearance.


Fresh switch soldered up.


Shrink wrapped.


Bad picture, but I used liquid tape to cover anything the shrink wrap didn't.


The brake light connections should be easier using the Kawasaki master cylinder and switch.


Simple, like crimp and solder.


Shrink wrap.


More shrink wrap to make it less orange.


Well, this wasn't exactly thought out all the way. So I am using the Kawasaki Vulcan controls. I am a tad concerned that the customization on the clutch lever might fail. I had thought no big deal, just carry a stock style shovelhead lever with the rest of the spares. Well, the Kawasaki clutch perch is a one piece clamp and the flush mount switch boxes don't really lend themselves to quick road side swap. A roadside rig up is still possible though.


Luckily for me, Lummy showed up to help and educate me on doing the left side switches. He said don't worry about threading the wire through the hole on the tabs. Thin the wire as I had done on the right side.


Tin the wires.


So you get something like this.


Tin the terminals.


Something like this.


Now just heat the wire and terminal and everything will stick.


Cut off the extra wire. This is not as mechanically strong, but you shouldn't be yanking on the wires for the most part.


Slide up the shrinkwrap, and paint everything with the liquid tape. (Lummy doesn't slow down for pictures.)


Same process for the horn button.


Left side switches good to go. About a hour for all this work with Lummy compared to like 3 hrs for my solo work on the right side switch.


Continuity checks for all the switches in every position.

Blue loctite on all the little nuts.


Add some extension to the voltmeter wires.


I got the headlight connected to the switch. The new set up means a mess of wire connections around the top tree instead of between the tanks. I'm going to have to clean that up a bit. Then I ran out of spade terminals before I could finish up the wires, so moved on to work on the front brake and fender.


Flashback EDR 2015



Just a couple pics from the Lady Hump Archives; El Diablo Run 2015 



"That Guy" 
signing autographs throughout the entire event.

RIP Capt. Art




NO FARTING ALLOWED




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TACOS ARE BETTER FOR YOU THAN HOT DOGS... pt.1/2








Happy Birthday to these two handsome fellows; The Great Magoo and Chris Park



...and just in case you might have ever asked yourself, "what's really better? Tacos or Hot Dogs??" Well, I think we've found the answer right here (see video below).

Thank you to Dropmoto.com

Huge thank you to Dropmoto.com for these Biltwell Thruster grips from last month's Instagram giveaway. I am collecting pieces for street tracker build in the near future. Follow @dropmoto for great motorcycle content and monthly giveaways.

NO MERCY FOR MAYHEM

Let's go ice racing!!




Loving these racing photos by Gophers and Cheese. See more here!

The Lane Splitter is back!

The Lane Splitter is crafted around Biltwell's proprietary ABS outer shell and features a shock-absorbing EPS liner with hand-stitched interior padding, cheek pads, and BioFoam chin bar cushion for comfort. Generous vents in the chin bar get the air flowing, and the outlet in back lets hot air escape. The Lane Splitter shield boasts extremely accurate optics and simple hinge mechanics for high style and easy removal for replacement or cleaning. A brass peg and hole configuration on the left side of the shield offers speedy opening and secure closing with little fanfare or complication. Mesh pockets are included in the ear recess - perfect for aftermarket drop in communication systems.

*Injection-molded ABS outer shell with hand-painted finish

*Expanded polystyrene inner shell

*Hand-sewn removable brushed Lycra liner w/ contrasting diamond-stitched quilted open-cell foam padding

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*Injection molded anti-scratch polycarbonate eye port shield with the aluminum hinge covers and mounting hardware

*Meets DOT & ECE safety standards


Available in 7 different colors and XS-XXL. 
(sizes and colorways may vary)
 

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New Fairings from Burly Brand


Introducing the Burly Brand line of fairings: The unique universal designs can be used in most applications with a five and three quarter headlight. The kit includes everything you need to easily install and get out on the road. The fairings are made of high quality molded ABS and paired with an opaque impact resistant acrylic windscreen for strength and durability. Included with all fairings is a universal mounting kit consisting of black powder coated heavy duty steel brackets with a range of adjustability fitting 35 mm - 49mm forks.


Visit www.BurlyBrand.com for more info!

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