This tech tip will walk you through installing our new Lowbrow Customs Shotgun Pipes for 2004 and up XL models. Whether giving you added ground clearance on a scrambler or tracker, or just for high-and-tight style on a rigid or swingarm Sportster, the Shotgun Exhaust Pipes from Lowbrow Customs make quick work of improving your motorcycle's look and sound. Quick and E-Z bolt-on install with the included heavy-duty mounting brackets and hardware.
- Mounting brackets in your favorite color, black - Mounting hardware - Requires use of your existing stock exhaust flanges - Compatible with Lowbrow Customs Cast Heat Shields - Shotgun Exhaust Pipes include 02 sensor bungs to accept your stock 02 sensors, plug and play! Please note that while this exhaust is bolt-on fitment for 2004 - 2006 XLs, these carbureted bikes will need block-off plugs (not-included) for the 02 sensor threaded bungs.
Tools you will need for the job.
3/8 drive Ratchet
1/4 drive 5/16 socket with 1/4 nut driver for removal of heat shields
1/2 inch socket for removing and reinstalling the flange nuts.
External lock ring pliers for removal of rings on old exhaust and replacing on new pipes.
7/8 opened end wrench for removal of the 02 sensors and putting on the new pipes.
3/16 allen socket for removing and reinstalling the pulley cover
5/16 allen socket also to remove and reinstalling pulley cover. Needed for installing the new rear bracket back onto the pulley cover. Also needed for removal of the crossover mount.
T30 Torx bit for the removal of the brake rod and reinstallation.
2 x 1/2 inch wrenches for the back bracket nuts and bolts that connect the new pipes to the new bracket. 1/2 inch wrench will also remove mufflers
Let's get started.
Step 1 - Remove any heat shields on stock or existing pipes using a 5/16 socket with 1/4 nut driver.
Step 2 - Remove nuts from exhaust flanges at cylinder heads (front and rear) with 1/2 socket.
Step 3 - Unplug O2 Sensors (front and rear).
Step 4 - Remove muffler mounting bolts with 1/2 wrench, and then the complete exhaust system.
Step 5 - Remove pulley cover using a 3/16 allen socket and a 5/16 allen socket, disconnect brake rod with a T30 Torx head and then you can remove the crossover pipe with a 5/16 allen socket.
Step 6 - Remove retaining rings & anges from stock exhaust using external lock ring pliers.
Step 7 - Re-install on new pipes. (note make sure the flange goes on first before ring and with the lipped indention facing out)
Step 8 - Remove O2 sensors with 7/8 wrench, & re-install on new pipes.
Step 10 - Loosely install pipes on cylinder heads with 1/2 socket & rear nuts and bolts to the new bracket/pipes by hand.
Step 11 - Tighten the nuts on cylinder heads first with 1/2 socket, then tighten the nuts & bolts on rear bracket with 2 x 1/2 in wrenches. By doing this evenly you can achieve the straighter lines on the pipes. Don't forget to check you main rear bracket bolt and tighten as well.
Step 12 - Plug O2 sensors and TAKE A RIDE.
Important Exhaust Notes:
â€¢ Note: As with any new exhaust, you may need to change carburetor jetting or use of an aftermarket fuel injection control module for peak performance. â€¢ There is no warranty on exhaust pipes and mufflers with regard to any discoloration. Blueing is caused by tuning characteristics, cam timing, carburetor jetting, overheating, etc. and is not caused by defective manufacturing. No refunds on exhaust pipes once motorcycle is started unless thereâ€™s a manufacturerâ€™s defect. â€¢ 2015 & Up XL models may need an O2 sensor adaptor to be installed correctly. â€¢ DISCLAIMER: NOT LEGAL FOR SALE OR USE IN CALIFORNIA
For more info, check out a video walk through with Todd.
SHOTGUN EXHAUST PIPES
Remove nuts from exhaust flanges at cylinder heads (front & rear).
Sensors (front & rear).
Remove muffler munting bolts, & then the complete exhaust system.
Remove pulley cover, disconnect brake rod & then remove the crossover pipe
S&S Cycle has weathered its fair share of storms. In spite of any unforeseen challenges, they've never failed to express their gratitude to the shops and riders who support their passion for performance. That being said, they've expanded their Horsepower Stimulus package and are offering a special thank you in the way of a 15 percent price reduction on their most popular cam products. This includes performance cams, cam kits, and their complete cam chest kits (cam, pump, plate, pushrods, etc.) for M8, Twin Cam, Evo, Sportster, and other models. Beginning August 1st and lasting through the end of September, purchase S&S Cycle cams from your local dealer or favorite reseller. You'll automatically see a 15 percent price reduction as their small way of saying thank you. Check out their site for more details.
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The early primary chain adjusters didn't have the "nylon shoe" on the adjuster pad...it just had this soft metal pad, permanently attached. The pad wore just a tiny bit(where the chain grooves started to show) and you didn't want to run your chain over tight.. The face of the adjuster was a bit narrower to fit a KR(XLCH type) tin primary cover. The clutch basket was narrower, so the shoe had to be a bit narrower too. I've found those nylon pads aren't always the best since the retainers often come loose, and the nylon shavings from the pad can clog your countershaft needle bearing oiler.
Full Moon Cycle in Dubuque, Iowa. I stopped for a quick visit one year on my way to the Meltdown Drags in Byron, Illinois. My chopper was packed ! Still runnin' that old, vintage square air cleaner. PS. I'm not in this photo...I'm better lookin' than these two blokes...
Hartman's mill. I went thru this ripper years ago - and it still runs pretty good. You do your best, try not to skip steps or cut corners...and sometimes you get lucky. He runs 2 carbs on everything - and he's good at it. Tuning, jetting - he makes it work. This bike is insane with details !