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  1. #61
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    Default Buffing with rouge

    Having worked with brass in the past- if you want to get better results than brasso or never-dull, buffing with rouge brings an amazing brilliance and depth to the metal. As these etchings are shallow, care must be taken not to apply much pressure- especially if using a buffing wheel or dremel tool- brass being a soft metal you could easily blur or erase your design. Be sure of the type and purpose of the rouge- like sand paper numbers, different colors will provide different results.

  2. #62
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    Default thanks

    Kirk, just wanted to say thanks for the awesome write-up and how to. These were ammonia-aged for a less blingy, patina effect.




  3. #63
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    very cool.

  4. #64
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    really good shit here, not just the work itself but the designs.
    i just purchased a marking methods 300 series for the shop so we could start etching our one off parts. with that machine alum and ss are supposedly easy to do.

  5. #65
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    Some really good shit one here. Fuck I didnt know it was that easy, gonna give it a shot when i get back to the states

  6. #66
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    Going to try this next week. Thanks for the great tech

  7. #67
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    Wow, just stumbled across this thread. AMAZING! Great write up and photos to illustrate each step.

  8. #68
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    Where are you guys finding brass for this? I went to three different hardware stores, (ace included) and none carried it. I really dont want to order it offline.

  9. #69
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    While I haven't used the stuff so can't speak to the quality, but we've got craft store chains like Michaels or AC Moore that carry small sheets of brass around here.
    stockbikes-suck.com

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by shathead View Post
    While I haven't used the stuff so can't speak to the quality, but we've got craft store chains like Michaels or AC Moore that carry small sheets of brass around here.
    stockbikes-suck.com
    I read this post right as I was passing an art store. Whipped in to their lot and sure as shit they had some.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostshadow View Post
    Alright guys I've been doing some expeirmenting and I have some information for you all. A lot of it is for poor broke asses. Also, for those of you who are on the fence about dumping a good chunk of change into all of the necessary components to achieve decent results.

    I have found out that you can use Photo inkjet printer paper to print on and to use as your resist, if you can't find press'n'peel for an affordable price, or if you think it's a bit too much for you when you're just playing around, then you can purchase yourself a pack of photopaper from staples or office max. Basic gloss works best. You'll want to print your design in the same fasion as the transfer papers and films, you'll want to print on the glossy side.

    Once you do that, and then iron it onto your brass or copper piece, then you'll want to let the metal cool down, now you'll want to soak it in warm water to remove the paper. You can usually peel the paper off after a few minutes of submerssion. You can lightly scrape it off with your fingers, you just don't want to go extremely hard just so you don't scrape the toner off. It usually stays on pretty good, but if you're using something abrasive to remove the paper, then you'll likely end up damaging your design. After the paper is off, you can dry the part and then put it in your echant.

    -------

    There's also an alternative etchent to the ferric chloride - you can mix white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide together to make an alternative etchant, you can also add salt to it to accelerate the process of etching. You'll want to use a 2 to 1 ratio when you mix the vinegar and peroxide. 2 peroxide to 1 equal parts vinegar and the salt really varies, depending on how much solution you're making. Usually a teaspoon to a tablespoon is sufficient. - this will create the exact same reaction as the ferric chloride. You can etch copper and I am pretty certain brass as well.

    -------
    This isn't all much different from my PCB etching days. I just never really thought about doing designs haha. I am liking the newest stuff posted above, that cover is amazing as hell! I love how deep it looks and extremely detailed. The biggest issue I've run into is actually cutting the pieces of brass to the desired shapes. tin snips tend to want to bend the piece a bit and it's not all too accurate or precise when trying to do a curve or bend. Dremel cuttoff disks just eat away real fast too. Sucks living in this shit ass apartment - I wish I had my garage from my last place, fabrication would be so much easier than it is now.
    I dont know what I am doing wrong, but I can not get the toner to transfer from my photo gloss to my brass.

    Guess I am going to have to order some pnp blue

  12. #72
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    Genius.

  13. #73
    MadRiverMoCo
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    Any details on the ammonia technique?

  14. #74
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    Heres my first attempt.


  15. #75
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    Great write up. I've been trying to do bicycle headbadges with a dremel and havnt had too much luck. I'm going to have to try this for sure. Such a sweet way to accent little details. Anybody know any ways to etch aluninum, I saw that this technique is a no no. Anyway thanks kirk.

  16. #76
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    Anybody know any ways to etch aluminum,
    As an experiment, I made a design, uploaded and had some bumper stickers made by Cafepress, stuck the stickers onto polished aluminum, carefully cut the design out with an exacto, then sandblasted. Then another light polish. It worked halfway decent. I used a cheap low-power HF blaster.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails al-sand.jpg  

  17. #77
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    Thanks for posting this. Almost as cool as the first time I saw pussy. Yeah it is THAT cool.

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostshadow View Post
    ...I have found out that you can use Photo inkjet printer paper to print on and to use as your resist, if you can't find press'n'peel for an affordable price, or if you think it's a bit too much for you when you're just playing around, then you can purchase yourself a pack of photopaper from staples or office max. Basic gloss works best. You'll want to print your design in the same fasion as the transfer papers and films, you'll want to print on the glossy side.

    Once you do that, and then iron it onto your brass or copper piece, then you'll want to let the metal cool down, now you'll want to soak it in warm water to remove the paper. You can usually peel the paper off after a few minutes of submerssion. You can lightly scrape it off with your fingers, you just don't want to go extremely hard just so you don't scrape the toner off. It usually stays on pretty good, but if you're using something abrasive to remove the paper, then you'll likely end up damaging your design. After the paper is off, you can dry the part and then put it in your echant.
    Ghost,
    you say to use photo inkjet paper, but refer to the transfer as "Toner" are you running the inkjet paper through a laser printer?

  19. #79
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    im gonna have to make some spray masks and try this.

  20. #80
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    OH FUCK!

    NAMBLA? i had no idea WTF that was... i googled it and it took like a nano-second to close the fuck out of that shit. FTS. i guess you learn sumpin new about the world every day. who knows this shit?


    BTW Kirk....after I carve the NAMBLA thing out of my brain with a chainsaw....

    THIS TECH ROCKS! Great write up. I'll post up some of the tags I do for my buddy at Mayhem.

    Thanks for sharing this.
    Last edited by insidious1engineering; 01-28-2012 at 12:04 PM.

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