first timer

Originally Posted by machinerguy

Not only did I break a stud, I stretched another and stretched and a bolt, too. After the fact, I made the mistake of taking an untried torque wrench into battle. It has been traded for a smaller one wihch will be tested before it's used.
Now,I've always liked the look and feel of the Brit fasteners, but a A bar of 5/16 O-1 drill rod and a dozen acorn nuts will cost less than $20. I think that's the path I'll choose. Unless someone near Pittsburgh has some hardware to part with.

Ha Ha, thats what I did 5/16 all thread and acorn nuts to hold the case together LOL. Great minds think alike.

Originally Posted by Stratman

Any quality assembly lube should keep her free.You DID use a moly based assembly lube on contact parts,right?

i use motor oil only on assembly, got that straight from wes whites video. put a good amount on the crank journals, and a thin coating on the cylinders and some in the piston rings, etc...

I scored a new bolt for $1. Thanks, Ken at South Hills Welding. Since I own a lathe, I'll cut some 26 tpi studs from barstock that I already have and use the original nuts. I bent my good crowbar trying to open my wallet.
I used a light smear of assembly lube and a generous dose of 50 wt m/c oil. Today, it's Pinewood Derby cars with my sons, tonight it's new studs and some torquing.

awesome thread so far. I'm really not a fan of those click type torque wrenches, either. I'll use one of these whenever I have the option, but sometimes they are just too big / awkward to get in small spaces. The one I use has the dual needle set up too, so you can remove it and see the max torque you've gone to.

Almost like I knew what I was doing.IMG_0802.jpg
All torqued, no mishaps.IMG_0803.jpg
While the cases get the rest of their innards, I need to think about the cylinder bores. Jugs are smooth and shiny, in need of a hone.IMG_0804.jpg
Pistons appear to still have the stock cast finish with some very minor scoring.IMG_0805.jpg I made a chart of my clearances versus stock specs.IMG_0807.jpg My engine is a TR6SR28xxx And the cyl, pistons, head, etc are from a TR6C or SC I don't remember. The .008-.012 clearance I have falls into the "TR6 Sports" tolerance, but seems awful slappy to me. The "Early" clearance calls to me because I have an early engine and it's the middle one.
What should it be , really?
The giant machine I run at work will rebore these jugs real nice. Im thinking torque plate fixture. Should I make one to replicate the head AND one to be the cases?
And finally, if I buy new +.01 or+.02 pistons, will they actually be the size i request? Naturally, no boring until pistons are in hand.

will they actually be the size i request? Naturally, no boring until pistons are in hand.

they will be close-ish (depending on manufacturer), but like you mentioned, not cutting till you have the ACTUAL ones in your hands.

I'm back! Its been over a year. Well, I made the amatuer mistake of not putting the slinger / washer behind the crank pinion gear and promptly drove the gear on so far that my homemade puller wouldn't fit. Then I moved, family & all. Finally settled in enough to start back up on my Bristol Beauty.

So I re-split the cases and banged on the crank enough to shift things to the piont that my puller would fit past the pinion. That night, I re-cleaned some stuff, put it back together, put the tranny back in, assembled the inner trans cover and most of the primary and gloated in some self indulgence. I am now waiting for the thrust washer for between the the clutch hub & basket to come in the mail from BritOnly.
I broke the ol lady's camera (drunk) so pics of the new digs, etc are pending. When I fix that situation, I'll post my FREE DIY PINION PULLER in the tech section.
I need info on the Posa Fuel carb that came with the TR6C. The only other one i've seen was in an old Street Chopper mag. This thing looks like simpliciy itself and I would love to run it! Anyone?

Time to resurrect my build. The motor is done except for oil and valve adjustment so into the frame it went. The stock Trump fork is out and I don't have an acceptable wheel for the springer. I do however have some Sportster parts and I really like the alloy rims. So with 2 or 3 lathed up parts and a bearing set from Choppahead, she's wearing a '76 35mm narrowglide.IMG_0788_crop.jpgC'mon, Choppahead, I'm poor but would gladly pay an extra $5 or $10 for bearings that say Timken, SKF, NSK, or anything but China.
The Brit drum bolted right onto the HD hub. The lathe popped out a drum to hub spacer, a frame to hub bearing spacer, and a nut to replace the one I unwelded from the XL axle. If anyone wants pics, I'll get them. New adjusters were made from hex bar cuz that's what I had.IMG_0787_crop.jpgI made a proper frame mount for the ol trailer fender and some SS bits for my friend Steve at work to TIG into fender struts. My mediocre skills with the MIG managed to get mounts for the plate & taillight.
Progressing, the kickstand & f motor mount are recently posted in the Brit forum. So next, these risers just scream Harley. Can't have that and I want to run the 7/8 bars anyway.IMG_0785_crop.jpg I started these a while ago. IMG_0786_crop.jpgTime to finish. Will post pics as I go.

I love seeing old build threads being revived. Following

The sharpie line on the front rim was to show where the dent was. After some vise/ lever/ wood block treatment, the dent was gone, but a second one showed up, hence the u-shaped mark. All straight now. Needs balanced. The arrow on the rear was a reminder. XL is RH drive, TR is LH drive, so flip the tire. LBS wanted $35 to flip a tire so I did it myself. If I didn't draw the arrow my dumbass would have had to do it twice.

Nice to see you're back at it. What did you end up doing with the cylinders?

I reamed the ridge off, ran a hone through them and put them together. According to The Book, piston clearance is in spec and cyls show very litte wear so wtf, I'll run 'em.

These started out as 1" plate. A trip throuth the lathe, and now they're hangin' off the back of the mill for some 1/4-20s.IMG_0813_crop.jpg
I guess I drilled ok, 'cause when I sawed them off, there was a clearance hole in one piece and a tapped hole in the other.IMG_0819_crop.jpg
Match marks are important.IMG_0820_crop.jpg
They'll bth get drilled to match the shorter one. They don't make calipers like this anymore.IMG_0824_crop.jpg
Sometimes even American drills are ground incorrectly out of the box. This one, I reduced the relief angle and split the point by hand.IMG_0827_crop.jpg

IMG_0830_crop.jpg Pilot hole? Schmilot hole! Cuts like butter. Kerosene is the best cutting fluid for aluminum. Like the saw, the drill is a roughing tool so,IMG_0831_crop.jpgbored to fit . About .872.
Too cheap to go to the hardware store, I'm a threadin' fool.IMG_0832_crop.jpg
Before I finish the bolts, I gotta get my stack of mounting hardware in order. These rubber mounts have two well used cup-shaped washers (two missing?) that i'll use on the bottom after some unmangling.
On the top, I'll make some new SS washers that'll nest the risers real nice.This is the bushing end.IMG_0834_crop.jpg
Then the saw.IMG_0833_crop.jpg

So I was almost there and decided to plop in front of the webs. Here's what I got.IMG_0836_crop.jpg Another hour or so, depending on whether I use the old nylocks or make pike nuts out of that 13/16 SS hex. I'll show it.

While I have your attention, I wanna say ,"Thanks Cultists!" for your unmatched generosity. The knowledge, ignorance, skills, unskilled dedication, commitment, bias, heckles, praise, we are the scene. Well, shit , I thought I'd have some kind of profundity here, but all I can think of is Full Tilt Wienerdogs.

Full Tilt Wiener Dogs!

and thank you for the great build thread....

Found some brand new fine thread nylocks in the bin and finished up the homemade parts.IMG_0837_crop.jpg
It works!IMG_0838_crop.jpg
Looks kinda odd with the stock tank.IMG_0839_crop.jpg
I also have this tank.IMG_0842_crop.jpg Looks way better? Opinions? I'll have to cut, weld, etc to mount it. Wish I had a TIG machine.
Got some valves with 1/4-18 npt for petcocks. Should work.IMG_0849_crop.jpg