first timer

If there's an intro blog/ forum, sorry I missed it. So I bought a 65 Tiger long ago and am finaly getting around to putting it together. Any and all criticism or advice or help is more than welcome.
Basically bolt on hard tail bobber. Not a chop 'cause I ain't cutting the frame. I got an old sprnger to use which I straightened from bent. I loaned the stock frontend out for a buddy's mock-up in exchange for babysitting but it came back all fucked up! One of the not so small prices of being a single dad.
Any way I got the motor torn down to basics and removed the visible casting/ parting seams, and tried to even out the finish as best I could. Not going for full polish 'cause I wanna ride, but my model building childhood won't let me leave the uglies on the castings!
My first queation is,"If I build the engine first and it takes a while to build the rest of the bike, what precautions should I take with lubes, etc. with a fresh engine that wont be fired for at least a few months?"
Thisis my first at a lot of things and I will try to post pics as I go.
Old (my) Skool = If you didn't build it you shouldn't be riding it
.

First things first get rid of the Pink Horse, Haa Haa thats another thread.... second as long as you put the engine back together right, I would think if you keep it in a dry heated area away from moisture and get the oil circulated through it... ( I'm no Expert ) I wouldn't see any problems

First off the intro thread is in the main forum. Second off I am in the same boat as you just a little further out to see. I pretty much finished up my motor build and what I've done is just lube the crank to keep the rods free. I keep my motor covered in a plastic bag with a blanket over it cause there is a lot of body work that goes on in the shop I am building it in. Pics are always a plus and there is plenty of talent around here to help with just about any question you got. Anyway Good luck and PM me if you need any help or advice and I will help if I can or at least try to point you in the right direction.

Originally Posted by LinkBelt

First off the intro thread is in the main forum. Second off I am in the same boat as you just a little further out to see. I pretty much finished up my motor build and what I've done is just lube the crank to keep the rods free. I keep my motor covered in a plastic bag with a blanket over it cause there is a lot of body work that goes on in the shop I am building it in. Pics are always a plus and there is plenty of talent around here to help with just about any question you got. Anyway Good luck and PM me if you need any help or advice and I will help if I can or at least try to point you in the right direction.

Any quality assembly lube should keep her free.You DID use a moly based assembly lube on contact parts,right?

Thanks,all!
The motor has just been torn down and is in the cleaning / checking process. My backyard playroom is now 12 degrees F so the plan is to bring it into the house for the build. I gotta make a space.
I have a tube of white molykote #105 that worked on car engines. If there's something better, I'll sure spend a few $ on it.
It was a relief to see the sludge trap damn near empty. A few small but very chunky chunks and I scrubbed it with brake cleaner, test tube brushes, and a pipe cleaner. then immediaely oiled the shiny parts.
Once a few more parts arrive, assembly will begin.

Originally Posted by Stratman

Any quality assembly lube should keep her free.You DID use a moly based assembly lube on contact parts,right?

Of course, I uses white lithium grease.

Originally Posted by LinkBelt

Of course, I uses white lithium grease.

The lubriplate molykote stuff looks like white lithium, only thinner.

I couldn't pull out the sludge trap tube, but it was so clean I wondered if there was even one in there. Well, there is and its gonna stay. The oil seals have arrived in the mail (thanks Stadfast) so reassembly should commence soon. This botom end shows very litle wear, but I felt it necessary to bust it down to eyeball that crud hole just to make sure.
My bud Shane from the body shop up the street gave me a 5 drawer craftsman box that will become the engine stand. Once it, the pancake compressor, and pedestal grinder / wire wheel make it into the basement, reconstruction will commence.
I've never documented anything before and hope I can pull tis off. Next post, pics.

woo-hoo pics we love pics. Hey bro if you are still interested in pulling that sludge trap check the tech section at Lowbrowcustoms .com that is how I pulled mine worked great. Oh yeah and +1 on free tools thats always great.

One do-it- yourself bike engine. Some assembly required.Attachment 10079
New donated tool box with engine stand welded up from scrap.Attachment 10079
One mighty clean sludge trap.Attachment 10082
Some of the ugly removed from cases. Cases washed and blown out three times.[ATTACH]Attachment 10084

Thanks for the hint, Linkbelt. I have Wes's video. It's great. I tried the 3/8 npt tap method, and got the impression that it would cut the end off fo the tube before it broke loose.
My regular playroom includes a very nice and useful 1956 Southbend 10K.IMG_0725.jpg
...and a not as nice but almost as useful cheap chinee mill-drill.IMG_0724.jpg
I don't want to fit engine parts in the frozen darkness that the garage becomes, so it'll get built in the basement.The future holds much running forth and back for tools.

Trap allclosed up.IMG_0732.jpg
Out with th old in with the new.IMG_0734.jpg
Each rod bolt was a different length, so I marked them with a sharpie,IMG_0736.jpg
and crunk 'em down 'till they stretched .004 like the good book says.IMG_0735.jpg
Step 1 complete. Use green Loctite, it's all I had.IMG_0741.jpg

Brown Permatx Aviation stuff always worked pretty well for me. It'll get squoze between the case halves unless anyone gives me good reason not to.IMG_0742.jpg
That's it for today, enjoy!

How does she love me? Letme count the ways.
1, Case in the oven.IMG_0746.jpg
2, Bearings in freezer.IMG_0743.jpg
3. High pressure lube & bearing press on the counter.IMG_0747.jpg
4. On the kitchen table, .076 is close enough.IMG_0748.jpg
No press required. Frozen bearing slipped into hot case by hand.IMG_0749.jpg

Cam buhings / bearings. Big end mesured .002 clearance. That works for me. Small end had .005-6. New small bearings. The book says "Tap, insert bolt, drive it out". I have no 7/8 tap, so...
I drilled relief through the bearing, made a tool for the slide hammer , and had some fun.IMG_0761.jpg

IMG_0762.jpg
Turned a "lead' into od of new brg.IMG_0764.jpgand slapped 'em in (With a little heat, homemade driver etc.)

New brgs have .003 int. and .002 exh clearance . Half the slop of the old ones. Woo-Hoo. After sorting through various aspect of my learning curve, the moving parts fit smooth as butter. Gooed up, ready to seal.IMG_0785.jpg
For years used a bendy-beam torque wrench. Bought a new clicky-beam today just to do this job with more love than usual. Set to 20, doing case studs, clicked nice,for a few, and then, cranking, waiting for click, waiting for click, come on click,IMG_0786.jpg GGHWAAATTHHEEFUUCGGAADDAAMJWEEZAMUTHASONOFA...
....breathe. I'll make a new one with U.S. threads.
I"ll TRY to contain myself When I return this POS "tool".

Man I love this thread, you are a very talented builder making you own stuff. can't wait to see more. Funny thing I just picked up a snap on torque wrench at a yard sale for 20.00 checked it and it's good. Any way keep up the good work.

[Okay, do-it-yinzselfers (Pittsburghese) What now? I found a chunk of 5/16 Toolish stuff in the bin to make a new stud. Before the metallurgists speak up, I think this stuff will handle 20 FORQNTRQFTLBSWTF!!...
breathe.
Fifty five degrees. British. Why not 60? Because of the Higby end. I'll elaborate later.
first cut, relief.IMG_0789.jpg
second cut, lead @55 deg.IMG_0793.jpg
third cut, cuting face and angleIMG_0794.jpg
slid on a stone slip
[ATTACH]10873[/ATTACHready to cutIMG_0795.jpg

Being a bunch of motorheads, I'm sure everyone has seen the end of a bolt. Some threads were rolled right off the end of the bar. Some were chamfered to a nice 45. Some are lathe cut. Some are rolled.
Being British, none but the best would do. They decided on a standard of "The end of a threaded bar shall be profiled nicely to a radius of twice the bolt's diameter" or some such jolly tea induced likeness to enginering's mundanity.
Here's mine.Done with a file.IMG_0800.jpg
I like Higbys on Brit scoots.But it's 3 count 'em 1,2,3 degrees f at the lathe. I'm headed for my ol' lady.
Ol' timey bolt onIMG_0796.jpg.
O'l timey springer.IMG_0797.jpg
Eyes on the Prize.

Not only did I break a stud, I stretched another and stretched and a bolt, too. After the fact, I made the mistake of taking an untried torque wrench into battle. It has been traded for a smaller one wihch will be tested before it's used.
Now,I've always liked the look and feel of the Brit fasteners, but a A bar of 5/16 O-1 drill rod and a dozen acorn nuts will cost less than $20. I think that's the path I'll choose. Unless someone near Pittsburgh has some hardware to part with.