The ones I'm running right now are homemade but due to clearance/length/ a couple other reasons I will be making some this winter. The main thing is on turns, they're awefull close to the road. I've been messing around eith some bmx crank arms just trying to get some ideas. They WILL be solid pegs, relocated higher, and thinking abou some sort of bearing underneath with the arms comming up. Post some pics of yours if ya got em. Thanks ahead of time
Here is a set I did. Only part you might have trouble finding new would be the european bottom bracket shell. You could cut one out a old frame or I could get a new one for you, let me know.
Here is a set I did. Only part you might have trouble finding new would be the european bottom bracket shell. You could cut one out a old frame or I could get a new one for you, let me know.
These things work great.
These are awesome. So how much for a euro shell? And also, do the pegs spin on these or is ot stationary?
Those controls are too damn cool! i was thinking of makin a kick start out of a crank over the winter, but this is way cooler.
I'd just cut the shell out of a junk mountain bike...
I was thinking th too but most mountain bikes are aluminum and most bmx bikes that are 4130 are big $. Too much to hack the bottom bracket out of anyway
Hey man. I stopped by a buddy's shop today and he had a bb shell that he turned down a little too far to use on a frame, relegating it to the scrap pile. I snagged it, so if you want it, drop me a pm.
Man, I just bought one on eBay last night. The guy didn't really know much about ot other than it is in good condition and a magnet sticks to it. Haha. Only $9.00 though. If it doesn't fit I'll definately buy that one from ya.
I took the spindles out of some pedals last night as well, so I have the correct threads to go onto the crank arms, but I don't wanna run the full pedal. Anyone know where I can get some knurled steel tubing for the foot pegs and shifter/brake pegs? Need like 3/8 ID for the shift/brake pegs and whatever else for the foot pegs
Right on dude - I'll toss the BB shell in a corner - mebbe I'll figure out a use for it. Dunno of a source for knurled rod... I've seen folks rip apart cheap aluminum flashlights off of ebay and use the bodies for pegs (dunno if that was on this site or another).
Well I got all the parts together now. The bb shell was the right size for the bearings. I ordered a cool filigree steel doormat to cut up and use the metal designs as part of the controls. Cut a few pieces out last night and it looks like they're gonna be pretty cool. I thought I would be able to use some chunks of it for the main plate but that's not gonna happen so I'll be picking up some 1/4 plate on the way home this afternoon. I also decided that instead of using chain as linkage as I have now I'm gonna make it chain driven shift. Will be putting a 14 tooth sprocket on the backside of the crank arm and a slightly larger one on the shift rod out of the engine. Hope it works alright, never seen it done before. Fuck it
Alright. Got a problem. Made the plates today that will bolt to the frame. Welded on some of that filigree stuff on it, which is cast iron. I know that this is a no no but it is not being used for anything structural, just decoration. I then drilled through the back of the plate using a 1 3/8" hole saw to slip the peg through. I got through the plate about 90% and it wouldn't go anymore. Flipped it over to go through the filigree first and would barely go at all. Thought maybe the bit was dull so I went to lowes and picked up a new one. Same thing
So my question is, did welding it do some sort of heat treatment? What's another way to go about it?
Is it possible your hole-saw got heat-treated. And dulled?
I'm loving this build though. The floor mat is brilliant.
i don't know, it dulled the brand new bit noticably within 5 minutes. took some pics of it this morning to try to show whats goin on.
this view is from the back, its 1/4'' plate. its drilled through prob 90-95% and will not go any further. the spot where it is through was done with a dremel. took about 20 minutes for that small section, and itsnt on any part that has welds on it.
here is where i tried to go from the front.
the whole thing
Any one have any ideas thought about a reciprocating saw on the way to work? possibly?
Ya throw that in a bucket of water to cool it right after ya welded it or did ya let in air cool?
I'm betting you dropped it in a bucket of water, which hardened the weld, like instantly. Your going to have to anneal it. Put a torch to it and get the thing glowing hot. then let it air cool. Then try drilling it again. Yer hole saw is toast right now so get another one.
nope, i always let it stuff air cool. But i finally got trough it. went out and bought a jig saw, and a ton of metal blades. went trough about all of them, 7 drill bits, a tungsten dremel tool, and about 2 hours. guess i shouldnt weld it up first when i do the brake side. with the foot peg 3'' higher the whole bike feels way different sitting on it. gonna try to do some more on em tonight
Linear Mode
