Same idea, just stuck with steel instead of brass. I think the offset of color between the clamps and the steel will look sweet when I get it all painted up. I also welded tabs at the bottom and welded the top - but I was 100% inspired by this thread.
Also I have a 1918 WW1 bolo knife that is getting mounted in the middle. Stoked, Thanks a lot for the ideas.
The knife will be a sick touch! Looking forward to pics when its done!
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,971
I just took the plunge and ordered a bunch of stuff from McMaster. I went with 6' brass rod (+ steel to try out first). I will post pics when I get knee deep...
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 913
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridemore16
I will post pics when I get knee deep...
Yes, please do. I've been wanting to see someone make a taller one. Probably be a pain, but I'd work with the whole 6 feet, just heat at the 3' mark and bend, that way once you are all done with the bends, you can just trim to size.
Another thing I was thinking, is making one without the rod ends. Just doing a super tight loop at the bottom of each leg.
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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I will post pics for sure. Can you elaborate on the torch + concrete situation? This will be my first time doing this and don't want to blow myself up. I was going to use my trailer to brace the brass rod while heating. Any tips are much appreciated.
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Yes, just don't heat directly on concrete, brick, stone, etc. (anywhere that could hold and trap moisture) The heat could react with moisture in the porous concrete, create steam and boom! You can brace things lots of ways...a vise, wood post with a hole drilled in it, car bumper, trailer hitch, shopping cart, ...you get the idea. You can safely put the hot metal on the ground after heating and bending, just don't let the flame hit the concrete for long. An easy thing would be to draw in chalk on the ground how you want the bar to end up, just measure where each bend should be, and the distance between, and you will have a somewhat accurate guide. I have seen guys lay out a guide and put pegs at all the bend points, using the pegs to actually bend the rod. Kinda hard to explain
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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thanks for the tip on special79. I just checked out his videos on youtube and got some great tips on how to bend the sissy-bar. I'm giving it a whirl this weekend.
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superglide
Looks good ! Who did the paint ?
That's a funny story. The guy who built the bike painted it. It was in Backstreet Heroes in 2009 and the guy lied his ass off in the article. Said it was an Indian Larry tank (it's not) and that French Kiss Kustoms painted it (they didn't).
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 9
I can appreciate working out a problem with limited tools. I have to do it alot my self.
Here's my thought. Brass is reasonable soft and easy to file. I'd try knerling down the lower ends rather than using the hiem joint. It seems pointless. Heat up the last 2-3 inches of the piece of brass rod and beat on it until it's about 1/4" thick, file it smooth, drill a hole. Done. Much cleaner. Admittedly I have not done this, but it seems very do-able and should retain plenty of strength.
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tito
Yes, just don't heat directly on concrete, brick, stone, etc. (anywhere that could hold and trap moisture) The heat could react with moisture in the porous concrete, create steam and boom! You can brace things lots of ways...a vise, wood post with a hole drilled in it, car bumper, trailer hitch, shopping cart, ...you get the idea. You can safely put the hot metal on the ground after heating and bending, just don't let the flame hit the concrete for long. An easy thing would be to draw in chalk on the ground how you want the bar to end up, just measure where each bend should be, and the distance between, and you will have a somewhat accurate guide. I have seen guys lay out a guide and put pegs at all the bend points, using the pegs to actually bend the rod. Kinda hard to explain
Pegs at bend points is pretty straight forward once you see it (as you know) and I use it when steam bending wood so basically it's the same principal. Lay out your shape on the table with chalk or marker, drill appropriate size hole for peg at each bending point, make it so pegs can be removed before starting and you replace themone by one for the next bend as you progress. (Ahh your right, kinda hard to explain)