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  1. #1481

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    Quote Originally Posted by elmiguel13 View Post
    Finished! Here's some pics from a few weeks ago after I got the Wompy Tokico caliper adapters and Leather Pros bags on. Fit and finish is on the money on the caliper adapters, stops waaay better over the stock single pot calipers. Those tokicos were $35 shipped from eBay.
    [IMG]Tokico[/IMG]
    NEED! Got a model number for those Tokicos? Still using the OEM master cylinder? And where did you find those caliper adapters?! Please and thank you!

  2. #1482
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    Purple penis eater no more. "Before" pics on page 68. Big, smoky burnout pics to follow. Almost done.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg   image.jpg   image.jpg  

  3. #1483
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
    Purple penis eater no more. "Before" pics on page 68. Big, smoky burnout pics to follow. Almost done.
    Bitchin!!!

  4. #1484
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    Wompy makes those adapters and he can tell you what model bikes the calipers you'll need to work. There's a few different model bikes that will work, but not sure the years. Mine were off a 2013 Ninja I think. Here's the link to his website and he's also on Instagram under sk_machine

    http://jpriderdesigns.blogspot.com

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    Strangler, what tank are you running? Is that the "quick bob" tank with he cat eye dash setup? It's dripping in such nice black paint I can't tell! I'm trying to find a tank for my 1990 FXR project.

  6. #1486
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    Stock, 2-gauge tank- I just haven't finished the tank strip and gauge bezel yet. This is a stupid-simple, low-buck, powder coat-everything kind of build. All my chrome was hit, and when you coat bad chrome....you get what you pay for. The paint came out nice, and has yet to be cut n buffed, so I'm hoping it draws everyone's attention. That or the tire smoke. Or the hot chick on the back. Or whatever.

  7. #1487
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
    Stock, 2-gauge tank- I just haven't finished the tank strip and gauge bezel yet. This is a stupid-simple, low-buck, powder coat-everything kind of build. All my chrome was hit, and when you coat bad chrome....you get what you pay for. The paint came out nice, and has yet to be cut n buffed, so I'm hoping it draws everyone's attention. That or the tire smoke. Or the hot chick on the back. Or whatever.
    Hey bud great bike. What are you using for the master cylinder? As luck would have it I have a right side sporty brake caliper in my parts cache but those wompy calipers look slick

  8. #1488
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    Anyone have. Contact number on wompy?

  9. #1489
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  10. #1490
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
    Stock, 2-gauge tank- I just haven't finished the tank strip and gauge bezel yet. This is a stupid-simple, low-buck, powder coat-everything kind of build. All my chrome was hit, and when you coat bad chrome....you get what you pay for. The paint came out nice, and has yet to be cut n buffed, so I'm hoping it draws everyone's attention. That or the tire smoke. Or the hot chick on the back. Or whatever.
    Cool Man! Looks sick, can't wait to see the pics with the hot chick on it!!

  11. #1491

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    Pics with the new paint and re-chopped rear fender. New brakes coming soon (thanks elmiguel13 & Bukwild!)...






  12. #1492
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    Default Jiffy stand install.

    I did this a while back to my '88 FXR after breaking yet another stock shitstand. I did my FXLR this week and took a couple pics to respond elsewhere to a guy who broke his stock stand mount.

    I used a common Shovelhead forward peg mount plate (49129-77, 49141-84A, or others available reproduction and used or you could fab one with whatever contours you prefer) on the first one then used a trashed plate as a pattern and cut one from some 1/4" stainless scrap at my buds machine shop. (Drilling stainless goes much nicer in a milling machine.) You will see from observing other jiffy stand mounts that you have a wide choice including a variety of stock and aftermarket forward controls if you do this. I don't care for forwards myself but to each his own.

    While the stand frame mount on older big twins has three bolts I found two quality Grade 8 capscrews sufficient to attach the plate to the left forward FXR highway peg mount. It's held up to my kickstarting just fine. If it ever does misbehave I'll just grind off the frame boss and weld on either a nice commercial replacement old-style frame tab or grab some flat stock and make one.

    I didn't plan to do a writeup so apologies for not taking more pics. If I don't post it now it will slip my aging mind...(drools) Stainless plate shown is unfinished and the hardware was whatever was handy but that can wait until I feel like buffing and radiusing the corners more nicely.

    The BOTTOM LEFT (of the four as you face the stand mount) stand bolt bolt has no room for a head behind the plate due to frame interference. I used a countersunk socket head capscrew and this time I tack welded (use a small tack) the screw edge to the plate. It's invisible of course being on the inside. You could make a tapped mount plate but I prefer the screw and I can always drill and retack if I ever replace it many years from now. If you don't have a welder you'll figure out what works for you on that fastener position. I held my first one in place with a flat screwdriver and once it got traction tightened the nut with no problem.

    Pic of aftermarket frame tab included if you want to use or clone one. Yes, I'm removing the stock stand but left it for the moment. They don't conflict.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails old plate pattern.jpg   FXLR Jiffy.jpg   DSCF6520 mount.jpg   jiffy weld-on mount.jpg   Stainless plate.jpg  

    Last edited by farmall; 07-06-2015 at 3:18 PM.

  13. #1493

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    Yo, new to the FXR world, been ridding my 93' FXLR this season and so far so good. Wondering what people would recommend for a minor ish performance upgrade. Not looking to bore it out or anything just a little pep so when i put in the planned 6 speed tranny i still got plenty of juice. I've heard Makuni carbs are a good start. Planning on keeping the stock pipes, is there any point in going for a pod or velocity stack intake? Coils with more juice? Any help would be appreciated.

    Oh also planning on a uprade on the rear shocks, like em slammed but the roads here are shit so my ass and lower back need some love. Recomendations?

    For asthetics Im going with Z bars (got em on my cb750 chop and I can't get enough) and a new seat. Probably throw on a sissy bar for camping.
    Last edited by SocialDave; 07-07-2015 at 2:56 PM.

  14. #1494
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    I put bagger stock takeoffs on mine to save my spine. Had to shave the bottom steel bushing on the shocks with a flap disc in my angle grinder but they are much more comfortable than stock shocks and are easy to find under a hundred bucks. Try to get 'em with low miles and the air line still connected between them as that usually means previous owner didn't drain the oil. You can get NAPA 1/8" NPT Schrader valves to screw in place (use Teflon tape since they are tapered threads) of the air lines. I don't run any air in mine but I ride solo. Use a MANUAL tire pump if you add air.

    Check the many six-speed trans threads in various forums because there are a lot of choices. I'd go taller final gearing first (check the many gearing threads) since I like to loaf on the highway but if I do a six-speed it will be a Baker overdrive. (I'm installing a bagger five speed in my FXR since that lets me ditch the stock oil bag and expand the battery box.)

    You have a variety of primary gearing options too. If you want more low end grunt for cruising you can drop the final gearing to suit. If belt age is unknown I replace them and do pulleys as a set. vtwinforum has a lot of good FXR info.

    Best bang for buck is less restrictive exhaust, carb rejet and a cam as with any Evo. If yours came with the crossover tube duals just remove the mufflers, put a block of wood under then end then use a fairly close-fitting steel rod in a hydraulic press to shear out the baffles (as I did on my '88) or remove them by method of choice. You could also replace them with slip-ons. The stock headpipes breathe much better than drags due to the crossover tube. (I tried drags many years ago-never again since I had to lean the jetting and power was reduced.)

    I just installed a Bassani Road Rage (which unlike Thunderheader isn't backordered) on my FXLR when I converted it to mid controls and like it. Previous owner fitted Short Shots and they didn't clear mid controls.

    I don't see any urgency to a carb swap and would rejet the stock CV if it otherwise ran well. I would add a cam since the stocker emissions cams suck. Replace the roller tappets when you swap cams because roller failure will eat the cam and puke crumbs into the timing chest. They gotta come out anyway for proper inspection under BRIGHT light. Lots of Evo cam threads out there to study.

    If you don't own the factory shop manual and parts book get them.
    Last edited by farmall; 07-08-2015 at 10:51 AM.

  15. #1495
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    just picked up a 91 fxrsc a few weeks ago... did a bar swap which in turn lost the air suspension. changed the fork fluid while I was at it and just capped of the hole with the stock bolts and copper crush washers...seem to not be leaking at all. I put the factory spec. amount of fluid back in but they are extremely soft or squishy feeling. cant seen to find a scrader valve with the factory threads... do I have have any other options to stiffen them back up?????pvc slugs to put a tad bit of tension on the springs???? please help. thanks.

  16. #1496
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    Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #1497

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    My old 1991 FXRS. Had to recently let go of her to purchase a bike more suited for my wife's short legs. Was a great bike for the time I had her.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  18. #1498
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    Im getting a little bit of oil consumption on my 85. Checked the plugs, no oil, not burning oil out of the pipes, running like normal. I have been doing a ton of 75-85mph highway miles as of late (this is on top of just finishing 7k miles in the past 2 months). I have all the breather hoses pointed down towards the ground (they were like this from the previous owner, I just positioned them better). Throughout most of my recent trip, I noticed a 2" spot of oil under the hoses. Not all the time, maybe 1/3-1/2 of the days, but it didnt continue dripping after the bike was off. To me, it seems like what was residual in the hose that dripped onto the floor. Since the bike is not burning oil through the cylinders (no smoke at all), could it be getting blown out of the breather? If so, what would make it do that? Id say it is loosing 1 qt every 750-1000 miles! Besides the small spot that I get every few days riding it, it never leaks otherwise. It doesnt sit for long, I've been riding it almost every day so its not wet sumping, it just seems to slowly lose it when its running somewhere.

    I never noticed it losing oil for most of my trip. I checked it a few times and was where it needed to be. I went from Graham TX to Roswell (2/3 the way into my trip) and the thing almost ran itself out of oil (I must not have checked it in a bit, plus it was really really hot, 8 hours of steady 80mph straight across west Texas). I got to Roswell an the bike was really noisy, got to my destination and noticed it had about 1 quart of oil in it! I immediately put oil in it, then got some more oil in the morning. From then on it was definitely noticeable consumption so I just kept adding oil when it needed it, never letting it get down below the low level on the dipstick. I checked the tappet screen too, that was clean. The breather hoses definitely have some build up on the ends so I feel like something is coming out while riding because some of the build up definitely has to be road dirt/grime too, I don't feel like it'd be that much with road grime alone. I've been riding it in dry central valley California weather.

    Any thoughts?

  19. #1499
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    Posted by lot12moto
    cant seen to find a scrader valve with the factory threads.
    NAPA make a Schrader valve with a 1/8" NPT base which fits bagger air shocks and might work for you. What size are the factory threads?

    Post a clear pic of the fitting which screws into the caps if not sure, or take a cap to the hardware store and gently try various fittings.

    Many FXR owners put a 2" hunk of PVC pipe between the cap and fork spring. I did it with my FXLR since it had lowered Progressive springs (previous owner must have been a midget) and it worked well but you can do it with any spring and ya can't beat the price.

    As for brooklynbomber's oil consumption, I suggest taller gearing than stock for highway cruising. I don't know what was stock in 1985 but I put 61-tooth rear wheel pulleys on my FXRs instead of the 70 tooth bar bike bullshit gearing. You can get taller drive pulleys too.
    Last edited by farmall; 07-18-2015 at 8:31 PM.

  20. #1500
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    I'd drain the oil and replace the check ball and spring in the oil pump. It's like 3 bucks and the dealer. You should clean the seat where the ball goes, they get crud buildup after a while. Probably just a weak spring

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