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  1. #1361
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    Me three!
    Definitely keep updating, here or a new thread!

  2. #1362
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    Did some updates in the last recent weeks to my bike. I am starting a month long cross country move/ride in May so I decided to go through some things and make sure it was the way I wanted it and mechanically sound. The seat is probably the thing that will wait until I get to California. Albeit ugly as sin, its sure comfy. I may also make a taller sissy bar to fully support my fully loaded gear but if that doesnt make it before I leave, the one on there now totally works, plus the back shelf is nice for carrying extra gas/gear.



    Went through the cam chest and replaced the cam bearing, added a EV27 Cam (found a EV3 in there in good shape), steel S&S breather gear, Crane lifters (one was beginning to fail), pushrods looked good except the colored bands were nearly impossibly to make out the color. The previous owner of my bike happened to dril a hole above the two left side rear cylinder rocker cover bolts. It allows you to get an extended T-handle allen and a small extended magnet which gets the bolts out very easy. Its completely covered by the tank and is a pretty handy mod. Otherwise I wouldve put adjustable pushrods in but I figured that I wont go into the cam chest without looking at the rockers too, esepcially since those gaskets are removable up top. But now having all those new parts in gives me peace of mind mileage for a long time so I shouldnt have to service it for awhile.

    Also decided I wanted to simplify the pipes too. I had the original set of headers with the cross over and some slip ons that were poorly mounted and was just a bit clunky. Sounded nice but I also didnt like how it crowded the motor. I took a set of drag pipes that I traded some other handlebars for and then cut them up a bit. Ended up to this design which Im still not 100% sold on but it'll do for now. I want to keep this fully functional as a passenger bike and the foot peg is in a shitty spot to make it exactly how I want, with the back pipe straight back and then the kick up. But sounds mean and Im going to throw a set of thumbscrews near the end for some tunable back pressure. They are almost equal length and dont require any additional mounts besides the stock mounts that are very stout on the early models.

    Last was just the 2" over 39mm front end swap. Mine had the factory 35mm which I just didnt like much and the serviceability on 39's is really easy. I had to cut off the original fork stop that was welded just below the neck in that solid section. When I had the forks off I took a small section of 1/2" rod and curved it to match the profile of the neck and welded it on. I did a few passes to add a little material that I could shape it and make it look better than the stock stop that they changed to later on. Since I was there, I added a few degrees of turning to each side by slimming the overall width. I added EZ fill fork caps too.

  3. #1363
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  4. #1364
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    dude you already have posted that numerous times in the classifieds..

  5. #1365
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    brooklynbomber, like the bike. definitely different than the normal. let me know if you decide to get rid of that sissy bar. I too am doing a long distance trip with my bike (ny to asheville) in july when I am off of work for the summer

  6. #1366
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    I removed the stock bars on my 91 FXRS and it had the air valve in the bars. Ever since then I have gotten an oil leak in the fork seals. Tried replacing and still the same issue. Do I need to upgrade the springs now that there isn't the same amount of pressure in the forks? I put the suggested amount of fork oil, but that was with the airride bars. Anyone know if the amount of fork oil changes when removing the airride system?
    Last edited by CM; 04-06-2015 at 9:57 AM.

  7. #1367
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    I bought the worlds ugliest FXR this weekend. I'm still happy.

    Buckhorns, aluminum forward controls, "custom" seat, rusted Kmart wheels, Florida corrosion, full size windshield, oh yeah.... all the goodies.

    The plan- Blast and powdercoat everything that is too ugly to clean up (trees, legs, rockerbox's, primary, struts, mid controls, set of stock mags, etc.

    The paint is ugly. Horribly, horribly ugly. So much so, that I almost think its cool….. I’m hoping that treating everything surrounding it to a coat of black will really calm it down. The paint was done by Ron Finch and is a quality job, just not my style, colors, style, preference or style. Gunfighter and a decent 2-1 exhaust and I will be happy to be lost in the crowd with the rest of you.

    I want to be different! (like everyone else).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 92fxr.JPG   92fxr4.JPG   92fxr3.JPG  
    Last edited by Strangler; 04-08-2015 at 7:44 AM.

  8. #1368
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    Let me know if your throwing away those forwards ill pay shipping lol

  9. #1369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
    I bought the worlds ugliest FXR this weekend. I'm still happy.

    Buckhorns, aluminum forward controls, "custom" seat, rusted Kmart wheels, Florida corrosion, full size windshield, oh yeah.... all the goodies.

    The plan- Blast and powdercoat everything that is too ugly to clean up (trees, legs, rockerbox's, primary, struts, mid controls, set of stock mags, etc.

    The paint is ugly. Horribly, horribly ugly. So much so, that I almost think its cool….. I’m hoping that treating everything surrounding it to a coat of black will really calm it down. The paint was done by Ron Finch and is a quality job, just not my style, colors, style, preference or style. Gunfighter and a decent 2-1 exhaust and I will be happy to be lost in the crowd with the rest of you.

    I want to be different! (like everyone else).
    its not that bad

  10. #1370
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    Ok, so it looks like I’m flying from my home in Mi down to FL where I bought the FXR pictured above (post #1367). I’ll be riding it home. I don’t have a lot of free time, so right now I’m planning on flying south on a Thursday night, giving the bike a solid once-over on Friday, and catching some sleep before hitting the road around 3am on Saturday. Looks like 18hrs, which should put me in my driveway at Midnight.

    I stored the bike at a relative’s house in Tampa, and I’m thinking about ordering some parts to swap out before hitting the road. What would you consider necessary to check, replace, adjust, etc on a bike that has only had 300 miles put on it in the last 11 years?

    Planning an oil change of all 3 fluids.
    Battery is tattooed 2011, but the bike seemed to start just fine.
    Brakes felt solid, but I only rode it around a block. They both work tho. I might bleed them.
    Carb wouldn’t let the engine idle without the choke partially on (stock CV, pilot clogged?) but seemed to clear its throat by the time I was back from my test ride.
    The cheap spoke wheels have me concerned about wheel bearings. I don’t want to put new bearings in wheels that I’m going to throw away, but maybe I should bring some bearings and check these ones out?
    The forwards were put on but the hole in the primary is just open. I’ll bring a FLH inspection plate and gasket, but what about the inner primary? (I don’t know that it is not plugged, but the outer was not plugged, so I’m leery).

    Also, aside from my standard tool roll with the “normal stuff” that I carry on my Panhead, are there any FXR specific tools that I should bring/buy? I’ve never owned an Evo or newer.

    Thanks all-Scott

  11. #1371
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spade115 View Post
    Let me know if your throwing away those forwards ill pay shipping lol
    They will be for sale

  12. #1372

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    Quote Originally Posted by CraiGORE View Post
    its not that bad
    After recently buying mine and doing a long ride the same day, I advise you try to check the gas tank (internally) for rust.
    Maybe bring a spare petcock too, mine didn't have a filter of anything.

  13. #1373
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    Man, 18 hours straight is a long haul. My brother and I split driving back from Daytona and around KY we both were passing out on the exit ramps before swapping seats.

    I'd do the intake gaskets for sure. Tubes, spoons for flats. New idle/main jet, carb rebuild. Then I'd try and hunt down a clutch puller, a spare clutch and throttle cable, spare bearings (get the numbers then check applied tech), spare tubes, spoons, auto fuses, all that crap, right right?? And just because I'm in love with mine and it's small enough, cordless impact for the clutch. Then sockets, L shaped allens, wrenches, adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, ball peen, enough to cover one saddlebag. Don't forget a breaker bar! get a nipple in 1", I use mine a lot. My girlfriend covered one in tape to beat anyone that tried to break into her apartment, it happened when she was with her roommates in college. so I stole the burglar beater.

    It sucks carrying all that shit, you could take it all and something shits the bed like electronic ignition.

    You'll also need to either shorten and bend an L shape allen to take the manifold off or find a bent allen, they're 45 degree angled L shape. I got one that came in a tool pack off a bed frame. Haven't seen them otherwise, but haven't looked either.

    The primary gasket you could reuse, I suppose the rest is act of god, watch some shit you didn't cover blows like electronic ignition.

    Oh and if you're questioning the battery, take it in to an auto supplier and have them test it and run the CCA's. If they're lower than spec, shitcan it. I've had them test 13, 14 volts, but the cold crank amps were some ten, twenty amps below spec. It's a good indicator of a dead cell.


    .....maybe in lieu of the extra throttle/clutch cable, some vice grips?

  14. #1374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capino View Post
    Latest incarnation, still waiting on some performance shocks

    This thing is rad

  15. #1375
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    seakings list sounds like what I take cross-country except I only take cordless impacts in my trucks. I take sockets for the compensator (six point preferred, and I grind off the internal chamfer for full nut engagement) and transmission pulley (I just lengthen a standard socket with a hunk of pipe). That's overkill but drive belts never fail at convenient locations. A "cheese whiz" can of Permatex Ultra Black can sub for many gaskets.

    I don't do intake gaskets on compliance fittings because I get rid of the compliance fittings. I run a Ram Jett solid manifold. I installed my first Ram Jett in 1988 and it's been flawless. I see no reason to run anything but a one-piece manifold. More parts means potential leakage.

    You can use a bicycle derailleur cable for a throttle cable if you have a screw-type cable end in your tool bag, and those ends can be used to shorten a broken stock cable. There is no sub for the FXR clutch cable since the ends are swaged on, but it isn't likely to fail IF you inspect BOTH ends and they are good.

    Weakish batteries can overwork charging systems so when it doubt, shitcan 'em.

  16. #1376
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    I can't even wrap my head around the logistics.....it'd be a pain to DRIVE down n back in three days, let alone fixing a bike in a day, power napping n hitting the road. Sounds like a recipe for panic at all ends.

    I'd say either get your bro to do the work or drive down n pick it up later, or at least when it doesn't rain 24 7 on the route down there.

  17. #1377
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    Thanks for all of the advice guys. The hours don't scare me, but the bike does. I just don't trust anything until I've had a chance to shake it out, and with I-75 only a mile from his house, this is a pretty steep learning curve!

    I’m flying to Florida next Thursday night. I’ll spend Friday changing the oils, battery, intake gaskets, petcock filter, bleeding brakes, cleaning a carburetor, inspecting wheel bearings, etc. I will not be changing the front tire, handlebars, or fork seals as those items can wait until I’m home. I will not drop/lose/break any parts and will remain on schedule. Remember, this is my plan.

    MapQuest tells me if I leave Tampa at 3:00am on Saturday, I will be in my driveway at 11:59pm Saturday night. 18hrs. I think I can beat that. My record is 1172/13.5 but that was across the top of the country with little traffic and fewer people. Should be the same distance and an extra 5 hours to do it. If I'm not within range to have someone come pick me up by 8 or 9, I may elect to crash for the night- I don't really like to be stranded in the middle of the night but I NEVER want to be stranded in Ohio.
    Anyway, I will have some saddlebags with various tools, spare petcock filter, wheel bearings, etc. I think I will order a manual too, but I think I can find most info on my phone.
    Looking forward to getting it in the garage and start the transformation. If anybody sees a burgandy blur headed north next weekend, don't laugh.... I bought it this way.

  18. #1378
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    Will sportster 39mm forks bolt straight up with 1991 FXRS-CONV sliders? Are they interchangeable as long as they are 39mm?

  19. #1379
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    Yeah I'd say so, upgrading to dual disc??

    You're an animal strangler. gonna need the cocaine.......

    That doesn't sound too bad of a plan! I'd drain gas/oil, pull petcock swap seals, new screen was what you were thinking? Seals leak when they sit, get all dried out. Pull both wheels, swap seals and regrease the bearings, pull neck regrease, drain fork oil and replace (probably not necessary), pull primary, adjust clutch, chain, check end-play on throwout bearing. My sportster sat for 12 years, kinda figure I have the same problems.

    Then carb/intake, should be ready to roll!

  20. #1380
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    Fuck it, bought Race Tech internals, going to be done with it.
    Last edited by brooklynbomber; 04-16-2015 at 1:59 PM.

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