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  1. #1
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    Default My first trump build- 71 TR6

    Well its time for another build. I originally bought this bike to try and flip it for some money towards a shovel, but after looking around, i think i like the looks of triumphs. Anyway, i got a 71 TR6 motor in a horrid hackjob plunger frame, with a brand new harley rear wheel set up for disc brake, a cool old narrow springer, and a relativley new 21 front wheel. This will be my first real build, breaking down the engine all the way, etc, so it may be kinda slow going. plans are for a flyrite/factory metal works frame, some mini apes.... but thats all subject to change. here are some pics of how i got it and the start of the rebuild.

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    Last edited by CMA406; 11-30-2010 at 9:13 PM.

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    can anyone give me some feed back on ho this thing looks, i think the cylinders look ok, the pistons are obviously trashed, but wat about the head and such? thanks for any help....

    also, has any ever heard of any problems about running a harley rear disc on a triumph? i talked to lucas at FMW and he said he can space the frame like a sporty so itd fit, but other than that would it be all straight? im also concerned that a rear disc might look a little wierd on a old hardtail.....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0969.jpg   IMG_0970.jpg   IMG_0971.jpg   IMG_0972.jpg   IMG_0973.jpg  


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    couple more
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    First off get a shop manual on your model and year ..This will give you tolerances,torque specs , all thatgood to know stuff for the bike, this should be common knowledge but we all know how that goes sometimes ...I have people ask me stuff and my first question is got a manual ? which most times they reply ..no ...

    As far as the head goes put your plugs in it turn it upside down fill the chambers with gas or whatever and check it for leaks ...I like to pull the valves and see if they are bent or anything ...I found a slightly bent one when checking the head on my bike ..it is not real expensive to buy new valves and springs then just lap them into the seats ....Maybe get a machinist block or a good level flat piece of marble or thick glass set the head on it and check for any warpage in the headgasket side and the rocker boxes...These are just soem of the ways I have been shown to check stuff ..I am sure there is many a ways to do it though ...


    Or just send it out to Wes at four aces or classic cycles any of the guys on here they are all priced fair and good guys...You could have it done that way then do the assembly yourself ...

    I think learning is most the fun though personally .....One of the many Triumph sayings but I like this one " Triumph ...Turning regular mechanics, into Great mechanics "

    Have fun with it ....

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    Hard to tell from pics, but none of it looks bad. The pistons just have some carbon build up, which means it was running rich. They should actually clean up and be re-usable if you want. The skirts on them look fine. It looks as if there is still honing marks inside the cylinder walls, which means at some point recently before it stopped running, the top end was done. I don't see any carbon that shouldn't clean out and be fine. Make sure the valves are moving freely, again clean the carbon out of the heads, and you should be good to go. Garbage told me a little trick for cleaning the carbon off. If you can find "Gasket Remover", think it's harder to find cause it's used in meth or acid or something, and hit the carbon with it, it will help clean it off. Good luck with the new project.

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    Just remember the gasket remover eats gaskets!!! Don't get it anywhere you don't want to replace a seal/gasket. And clean it out good before you re-assemble. Don't want any making it's way into your oil and circulating around.

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    yea man the first things i bought when i decided to keep the engine was all of wes's dvds, and a buddy gave me three shop manuals, with a parts book and some other literature.....

    and yea my initial plan was to try and rebuild this with all the info i got, and if it goes south i can always resort to a crediable builder, but to be honest i dont think its too overwhelming, just gotta take my time and get the proper tools.

    my plan right now is to get the engine stout and squared away, and then dive into the chassis, etc, as thats what ive done before and know what im doing (somehwat)

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    well i got some more progress on the project, got the jugs, pistons off etc.....waiting on some tools to split the cases from lowbrow, and then it should be ready to pull the sludge trap, and then send the crank and whatnot to wes for balancing..

    one question tho, how do i get those nuts off to remove the stator?? in wes's video he uses a long deep whit worth socket, but it seems like a 1/2" is real close to the right size, but the nut is so close to the plastic i cant seem to get a socket around it, or turn a wrench on it??

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    Neat trick using gasket remover to clean the piston top. The only thing I've ever used is a can of Seafoam, a green scrubbing pad and LOTS of elbow grease!

    Keep the updates coming.

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    ok i got some more progress, still looking for a frame, but cases are split on the engine, everything seemed good and in order, waiting for some cash to send the head, cyclinders, and possibly crank to wes at 4 aces to get done proper, then reassembly! kinda restricted by cash flow right now....

    also, when i pulled the sludge trap out it was COMPLETLEY full, i guess thats case and point on why you tear these brit motors down all the way...

    im really bad at remebering to take good photos, so here are some shitty ones, but i threw in one of the man cave....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0995.jpg   IMG_0997.jpg   IMG_0994.jpg  
    Last edited by CMA406; 09-29-2010 at 11:39 AM.

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    ok so progress is slow cause im broke as fuck, but i have a couple questions for some seasoned engine builders...

    first, is it crucial i replace the bearings in my cases and tranny? they spin free and easy, and i dont want to waste money on new ones if they are in working order, but i also definently do not want to be pennywise and pound foolish....??

    second, i poured gas down the ports of my cylinder head and the valves didnt leak, is there more i should test or is that a pretty good sign that its ok to run?

    im getting all my shit ready to ship out to 4 aces soon as well!!

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    you would be foolish not to replace the crank bearings. Trans, not as big a deal, because you can change them without splitting the cases.

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    well im lame and have no pictures, BUT i have sent all my shit out to wes at four aces. The thought of kinda goin the cheap route and trying to reuse/hope my shit was in good order definently crossed my mind, but anything worth doing is worth doing right, so im getting the whole 9 yards done by wes (crank,jugs,cylinder head etc...), ill be super stoked to get it back, ive also been cleaning the cases and hardware to get everything ready for reassembly....

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    I've done about the same thing on my build that your are doing to yours except I sent my shit to Big D cycles here in Dallas. I had the same question you had about the stator nuts and someone told me a half in. thin wall socket will work I haven't found one yet but I am still looking. As far as the barrings go just go ahead and do it you said it yourself anything worth doing is worth doing right. I had mine done at Big D and the labor part of it wasn't that expensive. One thing to remember when putting the motor back together is pay attention it is real easy to get in a hurry and miss something small. I put the whole tranny together and had it all bolted up kickstart lever and all when I looked down on the bench and there set a thrust washer I forgot. Other things that are a must to replace would be oil seals and gaskets. Things to improve that you might want to look into is a new allen headed sludge tube plug and new allen clutch screws. Anyway that all the advice I got for now.

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    yea for sure man, the only things im not replacing on the engine is the cam bushings and needle bearing in trans, they measured out good according to me, and look fine, so i think they should be OK.....any opinions on this? have them professionaly measured?

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    Na, I just told them to change them. The needle barrings were not to expensive and the labor rate was good since I had all the barrings changed at the same time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LinkBelt View Post
    Na, I just told them to change them. The needle barrings were not to expensive and the labor rate was good since I had all the barrings changed at the same time.
    was shipping the cases a bitch?

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    not much of an update, but still counts. The bike came with a knock off wassell tank, made by avanti (i think). It had some huge dents in the side, so i decided to try my luck with a ball peen and dish the sides, so far so good. i would say im about 1/2 way, and the bumps look alot worse in the pics than they really are.. i got the big parts dont but it needs alot of fine tuning to make look good, then bondo the unsmooth area. there were also some haggard mounting tongues on it, which i took off and will be replacing soon with some beefy one. Finally, i made a real quick and dirty engine stand, hopefully ill be reassembling soon....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1175.jpg   IMG_1177.jpg   IMG_1179.jpg   IMG_1180.jpg   IMG_1181.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by CMA406 View Post
    was shipping the cases a bitch?
    Didn't have to ship them I live in Dallas area. I just through them in the truck and drove over there.

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    Hey CMA406, I don't think I'd use bondo that shit sucks. It doesn't flex and will crack and fall out on you. Id'e use an different filler maybe even a fiberglass filler in the dished tank. BTW the tank is looking pretty good.

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