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  1. #1

    Default Ironhead front end/ fork stem

    Getting closer on my 72 ironhead project but I am confused about this fork stem sleeve. My bike is a Frankenstein so most of the parts are not stock, but in the book it shows the fork stem sleeve has notches to help unscrew it, mine is just round Im not sure how to remove it without damaging anything as the threads are very fine. Im basically trying to figure out what I have and what Im missing, it appears the pinch bolt on the upper bracket is also missing, is that the only thing holding it together? Do the fork tube caps help hold the upper bracket in place? Im about to tear it apart to see what I can see Im just trying to get a better understanding of what Im looking at. 35mm and I believe the sliders are Showa any input would be helpful thanks Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2

    Default

    When I look at an image of the sleeve on its own it’s almost looks like the one I have was installed upside down either way I know I’m missing the cap/ sleeve end, does that hep hold the assembly together or is it just for show?

    My next question would be how to adjust fall away, is that achieved by tightening the stem sleeve?

  3. #3
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    Yes, your top nut in the picture is upside down. The cap for it is just decorative. Yes, set fall away with that nut.

    Jim

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks Jim

  5. #5

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    Hey Jim I got the fork tubes taken apart and one was completely drained of fluid and has a sizable gouge right on the seal mating surface, is there a way to service this? I was thinking maybe jb weld and sand it down to flush but I know that’s a chintzy solution any suggestions?Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6

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    Alright forget all that I got a new problem, my lowers don’t have a drain screw but right where the screw should be there is a pinhole leak on both of them. Why is it like this, did someone attempt to “shave” the sliders and just laithed over the screw holes or something? How could I repair this, re drill them?

  7. #7

  8. #8
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    Somebody welded up the drain holes, but left a porous weld. You will probably have to grind the weld out of the leaky one and weld it again.
    The JB Weld trick for the seal bore is as good a solution as any.

    Jim

  9. #9

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    Thanks man

  10. #10

    Default

    I have a question, will a timken 07100 roller bearing work as a lower neck/ fork stem bearing? I have the parts manual but the neck bearings are not listed or pictured

  11. #11

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 19557E67-11D4-4071-BD78-33D3AE4DBFB0.jpg   4867A601-34D1-407D-928B-1CF538AC1154.jpg  

  12. #12

    Default

    It seems like those four little studs in the lower cone were gouging the lower bearing, is this standard? I’m going to try to get the lower bearing off but I would like a replacement on hand as it appears I’ll probably have to destroy the old one

  13. #13
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    if you get a factory workshop manual other than the welded up drains, all of this is in there if you look,... they can be found as a free download if ya look on the intewebnet

  14. #14

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    I looked thru these but I can’t figure out the part number on that bearing Click image for larger version. 

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    the stem is reading just under 1” so I think it’s 15/16” but idk if it gets wider at the bottom to accommodate a 1” bearing cuz the lower is on there pretty tight
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  15. #15
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    Top & bottom cones should be the same.

    Jim

  16. #16

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    Thank you here’s the repairs I made on that stuff if you care to see hopefully everything holds Click image for larger version. 

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    I’ll look up the numbers on that top bearing I’m getting pretty close to having this damn thing rideable now I’m sure my questions are dumb but just getting fired up thanks for the input dudes

  17. #17

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    Still wondering what’s up with the 4 stud bracket things in the lower bearing cone they tore up the existing lower bearing pretty good and I saw pictures of this other guys lower cone and his didn’t have those little studs?

  18. #18
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    You have an aftermarket bearing set with internal fork stop. The pins are to keep the cup from rotating in the frame. You will have to CAREFULLY grind them down if they are fouling the bearing. All the earlier XLs had loose ball steering head bearings up to '78 or '79, when they changed over to Timkens. There are a number of aftermarket sets to retrofit the earlier frames. The outer race is the same as for a big twin, 48315-60, but of course the cup that fits in the frame is different, and the cone (bearing) is different for the 15/16 fork stem.

    Jim

  19. #19

    Default

    Alright thanks Jim

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