Identify my lifters

[Dylan529]

Can someone tell me what brand these are? Any technical info as well, like how to check if they're working properly.
1973 fx
Had some noise coming from my front cylinder head. Pulled things apart, cleaned and adjusted and changed the oil. Looks better now, still need to get some more time on the bike though.

[TriNortchopz]

2015 Thread: help with shovel lifters

"Since you asked for the best way to identify them...

The dead give away is the spring. Solids are solid, they dont compress. Hydraulics fill with oil and they compress just like a suspension component and there is a spring for the "rebound"."

"Hi, first of all you do have factory hydraulic lifters trust me I've been working and wrenching on shovels for a long time. This process isn't the fastest but.....it is the surest way to properly adjust hydraulic lifters. First, ensure that the push rod that you are adjusting has it's lifter assembly at the lowest point on the cam lobe. Then turn the adjuster nut, on the lifter itself all the way in compressing the spring to loosen that push rod(while holding the flats on that push rod of course) then remove that push rod and cover assembly out of the way. Next, carefully remove the lifter out of the tappet block, remove the piston out of the lifter bore and inspect the piston and inside the lifter bore for any excessive wear or scoring, if there isn't any then, reinsert the piston and spring back into the bore and push on the spring/piston while holding a finger over the small oil inlet on the other side. If the spring and piston pop out on their own that assembly is serviceable. Next step, replace the upper, lower and center pushrod corks or O-rings, I recommend upgrading to O-rings by the way, corks are fine but O-rings are a little better. this is very cheap insurance against future leaks trust me. After having done that, reinstall the lifer back into the tappet block now inspect your push rod ends and make sure that it isn't galled on the rounded portions on the ends and, as best as you can tell that it's not bent. You can check it on heavy glass plate but that's a whole different class. Anyway, reinstall that pushrod and cover. It may need some gentle love to get it back into place. Now, get a paint marker or something suitable that you can see easily and mark one of the the flats on the adjuster nut on the hydraulic liter. turn the adjuster nut on the lifter in the lengthening direction until the pocket on the lifter has made positive contact with the "ball" on the lower end of that pushrod then, once it makes contact continue turning the adjuster nut on that lifter exactly one and a half additional revolutions(in the lengthening direction) using the marked flat as your guide. This is the best and surest way to adjust hydraulic lifters. Now, repeat this for the other three push rod assemblies. Like I said it isn't quick as in a fifteen minute procedure but this way ensures that your hydraulic lifter is serviceable first and foremost then you have it adjusted properly the way it was engineered to be. By the way, I've been a motorcycle wrench for a loooong time and there is no substitute for doing this right. Be patient, remember that old adage, "there's never enough time to do it right BUT there's always enough time to do it twice. Peace, brother man. "

"Sorry worryman, but I neglected to tell you one other bit of often overlooked maintenance concerning hydraulic lifters. Once you have completed all of your pushrod adjustments remove that slotted plug that is just to the rear of that rear tappet block and remove and inspect or replace your tappet assembly screen. This screen gets clogged with oil sludge over time and it will cause symptoms of bad lifters when the lifters are fine. In reality, they are just slightly starved for oil, especially at higher RPM's You see, the oil supply that feeds your hydraulic lifters must first pass thru that screen and if that screen is clogged/dirty or partially blocked then your lifters won't get an adequate oil supply. I hope this information has helped you, if you have any more questions please feel free to ask or email me at: [email protected] always glad to pass on the help because I sure did appreciate it when it got it. God Bless. "

"Thanks so much, this really really helps. Chop cult is awesome."

https://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42600

[Dylan529]

Thanks for that. Any idea if these are stock?

Also I've got s&s pushrods in the bike. Would I still adjust these rods 1 1/2 turns in the longer direction for proper adjustment?

[JBinNC]

Those are not stock shovel hydraulic tappets. That is an evo (or automotive) style hydraulic unit, and so those tappets were specially made to fit the shovel tappet blocks. Or, they are an evo tappet in blocks made especially for them. If you remove the tappet blocks so you can look at the tappet bodies, they may have a mfg's name.

These type of tappets usually have a travel of .20", and you want to adjust them so the plunger is at half travel, or down .10" from topped out. If you have S&S pushrods, they have 32 tpi threads, so .10 would be about 3 1/3 turns. If the tappets have travel limiters installed, all the above numbers would be halved.

Jim

[Dylan529]

Thanks.
looks like I'll have to go back and re adjust them

[Dylan529]

Any idea how I might go about replacing these? If I ever needed a set what information do I need to find something to fit my current blocks?

[JBinNC]

Any idea how I might go about replacing these? If I ever needed a set what information do I need to find something to fit my current blocks?

From the second pic, those look like the Jim's Powerglide tappets, and there are also Chinese knock-off versions sold by various distributors.

With high mileage, the bores in the tappet blocks get worn, and can be reamed and/ or honed to accept oversize tappets, same as fitting oversize pistons to cylinders. You could go back to the factory type hydraulic tappets, or a solid tappet, or the Jim's tappets. All are offered in oversizes. Or you can replace the tappet blocks, as the Japanese made replacements are good.

Choices for shovel valve train are becoming more limited as the years pass. We mechanics who deal with shovelheads regularly each have our own favorite approach. All I can say is steer clear of any of the Chinese made stuff, no matter the name on the label.

Jim

[Dylan529]

From the second pic, those look like the Jim's Powerglide tappets, and there are also Chinese knock-off versions sold by various distributors.

With high mileage, the bores in the tappet blocks get worn, and can be reamed and/ or honed to accept oversize tappets, same as fitting oversize pistons to cylinders. You could go back to the factory type hydraulic tappets, or a solid tappet, or the Jim's tappets. All are offered in oversizes. Or you can replace the tappet blocks, as the Japanese made replacements are good.

Choices for shovel valve train are becoming more limited as the years pass. We mechanics who deal with shovelheads regularly each have our own favorite approach. All I can say is steer clear of any of the Chinese made stuff, no matter the name on the label.

Jim

Just looking at my local stealership for a set. They've got a set meant for a newer twin cam. Part number is 18523-86B.

Neither of us was sure if they would work so I grabbed it to take home and size up to what I had.
Any idea off the top of your head if this set will work with my tappet blocks?
I noticed there's an oil hole in the cup that seats the bottom of the PR. My current ones don't have that. Does that matter?
I'm trying to have something on hand cause I'm planning on putting some miles on this weekend. That noise I originally was dealing with has me worried

[JBinNC]

Just looking at my local stealership for a set. They've got a set meant for a newer twin cam. Part number is 18523-86B.

Neither of us was sure if they would work so I grabbed it to take home and size up to what I had.
Any idea off the top of your head if this set will work with my tappet blocks?
I noticed there's an oil hole in the cup that seats the bottom of the PR. My current ones don't have that. Does that matter?
I'm trying to have something on hand cause I'm planning on putting some miles on this weekend. That noise I originally was dealing with has me worried

The number you gave is for an evo tappet. Those will not fit a shovel tappet block, no way, no how.

Jim

[Dylan529]

The number you gave is for an evo tappet. Those will not fit a shovel tappet block, no way, no how.

Jim

Yeah that would have been too easy..
Thank you for the help