Super E Jetting? 1200/1250

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  • dankmelater
    Member
    • Jul 2019
    • 37

    Super E Jetting? 1200/1250

    Sup ya'll, I nabbed a used Super E for my 1250, and am having a hard time sorting out the baseline jetting. I found an old S&S chart online, but going off of that I'm nowhere close to correct jetting. I went off of the jetting for 74CI and it wasn't close. Wondering if ya'll could share your jet settings for your Sportster 1200 or 1250?

    Have a backup Lectron (POS) I'll use in the mean time, hoping to not go back to the stock CV if I don't have to.

    edit: for reference I had my CV set to 180/45 and it ran okay. Decent power, and ~45-50mpg.
  • SteveJ
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2022
    • 128

    #2
    Start with :
    Intermed : 29.5
    Main: 72
    And see what the bike does , clean the plugs so fouling isnt an issue.
    Turn OFF the accelerator pump mech.
    DO NOT EVER try to find a baseline by installing too lean jets.
    Go fat , make the bike 'blubber' under acceleration and you know its too rich.
    Lean it out from there.
    Its pretty much impossible to tune a bike from a forum or on the internet.

    Comment

    • dankmelater
      Member
      • Jul 2019
      • 37

      #3
      Awesome, thanks for the specs SteveJ. Good to know on turning off the accel pump. Wasn't trying to set baseline as lean, was just going off of an old S&S chart.

      Sure is impossible to tune from the internet. Hope your settings get me going in the right direction.

      Comment

      • SteveJ
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2022
        • 128

        #4
        Originally posted by dankmelater
        Awesome, thanks for the specs SteveJ. Good to know on turning off the accel pump. Wasn't trying to set baseline as lean, was just going off of an old S&S chart.

        Sure is impossible to tune from the internet. Hope your settings get me going in the right direction.
        When I was taught I was told that I will have to listen ti the engine as its working.
        Blubbering during acceleration has to be heard and experienced to understand the term.

        Comment

        • docmel
          Senior Member
          • May 2015
          • 886

          #5
          Originally posted by SteveJ
          When I was taught I was told that I will have to listen ti the engine as its working.
          Blubbering during acceleration has to be heard and experienced to understand the term.
          Use the SS cart and set everything as it stated for your carb/application

          SS has a great tuning instructions on thier site, as well as a chart: FOLLOW THEM. They have been around for decades and made the car.b I have had many folks come to me with a new carb inssall and couldnt figure out why it wouldnt run right.

          Outside of poor intake installation, no insulation block, etc, 90% of the time they didnt read the install and tune up instructions

          SS carbs out of the box are almost a bolt on and go (just set the idle and accel pump), but all bikes arent the same

          Go to the SS site and follow thier initial jet sizes (main and intermediate), ensure thats what you have in your carb now, and FOLLOW thier intial set up and tuning instructions

          Comment

          • SteveJ
            Senior Member
            • Mar 2022
            • 128

            #6
            Originally posted by docmel
            Use the SS cart and set everything as it stated for your carb/application

            SS has a great tuning instructions on thier site, as well as a chart: FOLLOW THEM. They have been around for decades and made the car.b I have had many folks come to me with a new carb inssall and couldnt figure out why it wouldnt run right.

            Outside of poor intake installation, no insulation block, etc, 90% of the time they didnt read the install and tune up instructions

            SS carbs out of the box are almost a bolt on and go (just set the idle and accel pump), but all bikes arent the same

            Go to the SS site and follow thier initial jet sizes (main and intermediate), ensure thats what you have in your carb now, and FOLLOW thier intial set up and tuning instructions
            Here is the difference between theory and practice.
            The S&S guide is exactly that :: a guide.
            You have to get on the bike and ride it and when customers came in thats exactly whet I would do:
            Get on the bike and ride it.
            Usually a WFO full on fly by of the shop , cuz thats how I ride and set the tune. Running the full RPM range.
            Paperwork is ok to establish a baseline but its up to the tuner to get the final settings.

            Comment

            • JBinNC
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2018
              • 2715

              #7
              Originally posted by docmel
              Use the SS cart and set everything as it stated for your carb/application

              SS has a great tuning instructions on thier site, as well as a chart: FOLLOW THEM. They have been around for decades and made the car.b I have had many folks come to me with a new carb inssall and couldnt figure out why it wouldnt run right.

              Outside of poor intake installation, no insulation block, etc, 90% of the time they didnt read the install and tune up instructions

              SS carbs out of the box are almost a bolt on and go (just set the idle and accel pump), but all bikes arent the same

              Go to the SS site and follow thier initial jet sizes (main and intermediate), ensure thats what you have in your carb now, and FOLLOW thier intial set up and tuning instructions
              ...and check the FLOAT LEVEL, especially on a new, out-of-the-box carb.

              Jim

              Comment

              • DoomBuggy
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2016
                • 2436

                #8
                I'll pop in here for a second. I was having a devil of a time with the Super E on my Panhead. I ended up using SteveJ's method to get me close on jetting, BUT it still would sputter like crazy over 3000rpm if I just went full throttle, but not if I slowly rolled it on.

                This is where Jim's guidance on the air bleed for the main circuit came in. Since my carb is old it did not have the replaceable air bleeds and instead I started drilling the one in the body out a couple of thousands at a time. I went from the stock .040" hole to a .053" hole. This cleared up the problem and the bike now pulls solidly from idle to as fast as I dare spin a fresh motor up. ( around 4500 rpm ).

                If you care there is a thread here that lays out what I did.
                Well crap, the Desert Rose is giving me problems. Once fully warmed up if I roll on the throttle slowly it revs right up to around 4k with no issues, she feels like she will wind up even higher if I try, but it is a fresh top end on there so I am taking it easy. However, if say at 1k I give her full throttle she revs up to 3k


                Good luck,
                Harry

                Comment

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