Electrical Issues

[gimpy]

Good Day to all:
I assembled basically a 1994 softail. Electrically, a Autometer speedo/tach combo, Badlands control module,
S&S single fire coil are the primary differences.
I roughed in most of the wires, a shop did the hook up's. It should be noted that all connections were soldiered.
in other words hard wired.
In the 2 yrs since, I've had component failure, and enough other issues to conclude an overhaul of the wiring
system is needed.
So far I've got most shrink tubing cut away to where I can view individual wires. I had a color coded schematic,
but it got wet and ruined, so I'm in the dark. I have a factory cartoon, but can't read it as I have low tier
Dyslexia.
I want to eliminate the turn signal circuit completely. This in itself will reduce alot of wiring,
potential problems and simplify the overall job. I haven't disconnected anything yet, not wanting to make a
mistake.
I like doing my own work, and learning. It would be simple to take it somewhere, but I'd be no better off if a
problem arises.
Thats it. I need help and badly. i'll follow whatever instructions given religiously. Thank You

[gimpy]

I've exposed the individual wires and am making drawings of the individual circuits. So far I've come across 2 broken wires. If interested, I'll submit the drawings, for evaluation.
2 questions: 1. The reader from the tranny has 3 small wires, goes to a coupler where the wire gauge is heavier... why? As I have plenty of wire, can I eliminate the coupler and wire directly ?
2. The Badlands unit is solely for the operation of the turn signals, is that correct? Will eliminating that effect anything else?

[JBinNC]

My approach to wiring H-D s is to kinda sorta follow the factory practice from the '70s - 90s. H-D used 4 breakers: one 30 Amp main breaker, and three 15 Amp breakers; ignition, accessories, and lighting. The turn signals were usually on the accessory breaker, and if you are doing a simple bike, you can eliminate the accessory breaker.

So, your battery voltage goes through the main breaker to the ignition switch, and from the switch, one wire to the ignition breaker and one to the lighting breaker. That way, you have two separate main circuits, and if you have a failure of lighting, then with ignition still working, you can ride the bike home. All your 12V power will then come from either the ignition breaker or the lighting breaker and on to your various circuits.

Your Badlands module PROBABLY runs the turn signals, with maybe taillamp and brake lamp controlled through it as well. If you are going to eliminate the turn lamps, you may have to wire for taillamp and brake lamp separately when you remove the Badlands module.

Jim

[gimpy]

Thank you Jim. Most of the wiring is Ok, it's primarily the turn signals and associated wiring going to the autometer unit that I'll be eliminating.
Your correct. Both rear turn/brake/light are wired into the badlands. I'd like to have them on a separate circuit in case of fault, I'd at least have something in back to keep from getting rear ended.
In all honesty Best thing would be to have a pro draw me a schematic. It's money well spent, saves me time and brain cells. Anyone out there doing this? Thanks Again

[ExplodingCoffinEmporium]

What type of badlands module do you have and why did someone install it? I run one on the 06’ Sportster because I have the Moons V3 integrated turn signal/brake light and wanted to avoid the hyper flash with the LED so load equalizer was the answer, had it for a quite a many years and it’s been a solid unit.

[gimpy]

Good Day: I was running a Badlands lLL-pro-lll but have removed it. My bikes wiring had real issues. i now have everything exposed, finding more potential problems. Best thing now is to rewire the beast. All of my lights wiring is too short since divorcing the Badlands, and scabbing in wires seems foolish, so I'm basically starting from scratch. I'll be back when I'm ready to proceed. Thanks again to all who are helping, God knows I'd be lost without it.

[farmall]

Good call.

Best way to wire is typically shitcan everything then do it right the first time, and the expensive aftermarket units are IMO silly compared to convenient reliable easily replaceable blade style or HD style thermal circuit breakers.

A pair of cheap LED flashers easily replaces later model flasher modules. I don't need the turn signal latching feature and never saw the point but my hands aren't small. There are shitloads of simplified schematics and the best thing with electrical is do it all yourself so you can have it your way and instantly troubleshoot it knowing all the details because you wired it.

[gimpy]

No brake lights.
Switch to ING: Blue(cold) Orange/White(HOT) Red/White(Hot when Front Break lever depressed)
Switch to LIGHT: Blue(HOT) Orange/White(HOT) Red/White(Hot when Front Break lever depressed)



no image loaded. From Brake Switch: Orange/White split to neg #3 circuit breaker then to right Handlebar.
Red/White runs to right handlebar
Blue splits to neg side#2 circuit breaker then to red taillight wire
Black from taillight grounded to frame

[gimpy]

Thanks to everyone for the advice, and plain putting up with me. I got my problems solved, and it was so stupidly simple. What threw me was having loose colored wires that were the same colors going to the brake sensor. The mind thinks they ought to go together, logic says it can't. If theres a lesson, screw the colors, make tests and readings, especially if your dealing with an inherited wiring mess. Thanks and stay well.

[BrokenSprocketGarage]

Glad you got it fixed!
For future reference I build custom wire harnesses to order. Check out my Chopmarket thread-Broken Sprocket Garage.