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  1. #1

    Default Shovelhead Neck repair

    So I got a little carried away with the grinder taking of the front tank mounts on my 84 shovelhead frame, took off more material than I had planned. I'm thinking I could clean up the neck a bit, fab up a piece of steel to fit in place of the material I took off and weld it on. Structurally speaking you think it will still be good? Another question, The cross member on the down tubes in the last picture, can I cut that off? Thanks guys, go easy on me first time build and first time using a grinder!

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  2. #2
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    Hey I did something similar like that to my frame, I just made a metal bung and welded it in the hole and used it for mounting my tank. Click image for larger version. 

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    Then grinded it down smooth and itís been all good since.

    That piece of metal in the last pic was for mounting an oil cooler I think? But I cut mine off too so just go for it. You can always fab another one up and weld it in place

  3. #3

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    It looks like you ground about 3/4 of the neck casting (all but the bottom) down to match the backbone tube? With your finger in the speedo hole how far does the backbone tube fit into the neck casting. Bottom mount is lower fatbob tank mount and crashbar mount. Removal should not effect anything. You might have to fab up a piece that goes over and onto the tube that you ground down. I think you have no or very little support of the main back bone, at least on top. IMHO

  4. #4
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    When I redid my frame (paint that is) i ground off those mounts and did as Eldergiraffe did and welded a bung for a tank mount in there. but I also agree with flatman in saying it looks pretty thin there.

    And chop that cross bar out no prob. Tons of people have done it, myself included with no problems.

  5. #5

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    Yea it's pretty much down to the backbone, so fabing a piece to take place of what I ground down and welding it to what I have left of the neck casting should be good? I'm concerned about structural integrity more than anything else.

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    I think I would find a piece of tubing with the I.D. of the O.D. of the top tube and slit it and weld onto the top tube. You could make it however long as would would fit nicely on the frame. Maybe go as far back as the top rear bowlegs, or the front of the seat area. Stich weld underneath, it wouldn't require welding the whole length, and that would bow the frame. With a slight bit of molding it would be practically invisible!

  7. #7

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    yea i think thats probably the easiest route, any idea how thick of tubing would be good enough?

  8. #8
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    1/8" or so. Any thicker would be more noticeable and that's the thickness of tube you're reinforcing.

  9. #9

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    Ok cool, I'll give that a shot. Thanks man.

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