Ironhead clutch

[Cooldean69]

Got another question on this 1972 ironhead, I set up and adjusted the clutch but the lever is basically solid and I can’t pull it down to the grip. I don’t have fluids in the primary yet because I’m still screwing around with it, does it need fluid to fully engage? New clutch basket, made sure the balls are seated in ramp and adjusted slack on the cable and screw in the primary as per instructions, though I am also missing the jam nut. How much travel is supposed to be in the lever when fully depressed?

[JBinNC]

You need to go back through it again, starting with the clearance between the pressure plate and the outer plate of the clutch pack. If you don't have enough travel or clearance there, you can't get full movement of the hand lever. I think that clearance is 3/16" or so. Then the cable adjustment needs to be backed off, and the pushrod (release screw) adjustment done first. You need about 1/2 turn loose on the release screw with the release mechanism at full rest. Then do the cable adjustment last, leaving a minimum of free travel at the hand lever (but it must have a LITTLE).

Do all that, and the clutch should work slick. Whether it releases cleanly or not depends on the condition of the plates and steels, and the type of lining material used. (Hint: Kevlar clutch plates are the spawn of Satan.)

Jim

[Cooldean69]

You need to go back through it again, starting with the clearance between the pressure plate and the outer plate of the clutch pack. If you don't have enough travel or clearance there, you can't get full movement of the hand lever. I think that clearance is 3/16" or so. Then the cable adjustment needs to be backed off, and the pushrod (release screw) adjustment done first. You need about 1/2 turn loose on the release screw with the release mechanism at full rest. Then do the cable adjustment last, leaving a minimum of free travel at the hand lever (but it must have a LITTLE).

Do all that, and the clutch should work slick. Whether it releases cleanly or not depends on the condition of the plates and steels, and the type of lining material used. (Hint: Kevlar clutch plates are the spawn of Satan.)

Jim

Well thanks again Jim I appreciate the insight

[Cooldean69]

My release plate with the bearing in the center has built in spacers that the pressure plate bolts fit into but they seem to be binding on the threads slightly like one or more of the spacers may have been bent or warped, could this binding be a part of the problem? I might just cut them off with a dremel or something

[JBinNC]

The tubing spacers are separate parts dropped over the long studs. They are thin and easily damaged. Barnett offers a new set that are a little more robust, and have a collar of sorts where they fit against your releasing disc.

Jim

[Cooldean69]

The threads on the rear pressure plate bolts bind slightly inside these spacers when I install the release plate that these spacers are attached to but it will seat fully when I do work it all the way on, they are probably slightly bent or warped spacers


My inner spring also appears to be slightly undersized

[Cooldean69]

Not sure how or really where to pull that 3/16” measurement I’m guessing it’s supposed to be between the final outer drive plate and the back of the release disk, And just use a feeler gauge or something

[JBinNC]

Your spacers are upside down. They are just stuck in the disc. Pull them and turn them over. You have a stock spring pack and it should prove to be adequate. For the 3/16 measurement just use a steel rule. It is not a critical measurement, it is just a check to be sure you have enough travel for the clutch to release.

Jim

[Cooldean69]

Your spacers are upside down. They are just stuck in the disc. Pull them and turn them over. You have a stock spring pack and it should prove to be adequate. For the 3/16 measurement just use a steel rule. It is not a critical measurement, it is just a check to be sure you have enough travel for the clutch to release.

Jim

Thank you