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  1. #1

    Default Sportster Wiring Diagram using 4-position momentary start switch

    I'm working on a build using a 2000 XL1200 motor and a Paughco frame. Thinking ahead to how I'm going to wire things up. I've salvaged the wiring harness from the donor bike and my plan is to cut it apart and reuse most of the wiring for the build.

    A summary of what I plan to ditch/keep:

    Ditch:
    Turn Signals
    Speedometer
    Indicator Lights
    Front brake switch
    Stock ignition switch
    Bank angle sensor
    Kill switch

    Keep:
    Stock ignition
    Horn
    Headlight/tail light (obviously)
    VOES

    To replace the ignition switch I plan to use a 4-position momentary start switch. It has positions for off, accessory, ignition, and starter. It should operate like a vehicle ignition switch does.

    As far as I know, I will still need to use the starter relay with this type of switch, so I am including it in the diagram. Will likely have to sit somewhere behind the engine near the starter.

    Both 15 amp fuses will be inline fuses to eliminate the fuse panel. The 30 amp main circuit breaker from the stock wiring harness will be replaced with a covered waterproof CB, with a home somewhere behind the motor.

    I'm posting a diagram of how I intend to wire this. If you have any constructive feedback, please share. Hopefully someone can reassure me that I don't have any fatal flaws! I realize there are a lot of different ways one could wire a Sporty chop given different types of switches, options for eliminating accessories, etc, so hopefully someone might get some use out of this if nothing else.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Proposed Wiring Diagram.JPG   Stock Wiring Diagram.JPG  

  2. #2
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    A bit hard to read; why just a single filament headlight bulb - add a toggle switch for H/L.

    Take a look at this one to see if it makes sense for your build - just eliminate what you don't need:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    A basic system here with electric start for reference:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think you have to tie the green and grey to bypass the bank angle sensor, not ground the green. But I could be wrong, it's been a while since I've done one.

    Jim

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    It would be easier to start from scratch.
    Dont use in line fuses, use auto resetting circuit breakers like the OEM main 30A.
    The crank to start key switch shouldn’t need a relay if it is rated 15A or more.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    I think you have to tie the green and grey to bypass the bank angle sensor, not ground the green. But I could be wrong, it's been a while since I've done one.

    Jim
    I was using the information in this thread on xlforum.net for directions on eliminating bank angle sensor:
    http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1768777

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokenSprocketGarage View Post
    It would be easier to start from scratch.
    Dont use in line fuses, use auto resetting circuit breakers like the OEM main 30A.
    The crank to start key switch shouldn’t need a relay if it is rated 15A or more.

    What's the reasoning behind using auto resetting circuit breakers over fuses? I assume you would you use something like this that has a cover to keep it from the elements?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokenSprocketGarage View Post
    It would be easier to start from scratch.
    Dont use in line fuses, use auto resetting circuit breakers like the OEM main 30A.
    The crank to start key switch shouldn’t need a relay if it is rated 15A or more.
    So, if the starter relay were to be eliminated, do I need to beef up some of the wires? If I understand things correctly, there would be a wire between main circuit breaker and the ignition switch, and another between the ignition switch and starter that would need to carry a higher current than would be needed if a starter relay were used. Any idea what gauge?

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    For components that are larger amp loads on a typical 12V motorcycle, 14ga. wire is the largest needed. That would be the main breaker circuit to the ignition switch, the headlamp wires, and the starter circuit, either directly from your ignition switch in your case, or the switched circuit through the starter relay to the solenoid. Everything else can be 16 or 18ga. or sometimes even smaller wire.

    Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by cobra006 View Post
    What's the reasoning behind using auto resetting circuit breakers over fuses? I assume you would you use something like this that has a cover to keep it from the elements?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Circuit breakers reset themselves when the short is removed, fixed and the breaker cools down. On the road or troubleshooting an issue you are SOL without a spare fuse or you might burn up a whole bunch of fuses.

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    Those standard type circuit breakers are weathertight enough for motorcycle use without the bulky cover. Or, you could use the more modern mini breakers that plug in like an ATI(?) fuse. Those are sealed pretty good. Fuses are SO early 20th century.

    Jim

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    Jim's comment about wire size reminded me of that old Street Chopper article; it's gone from the Street Chopper site, but found it on another page:

    Vintage Tech — Wiring Your Chopper

    All you wanted to know about wiring your chopper but were too SHOCKED to ask!

    Part Wire Size Amps
    Charge circuit #12-#14 10-15
    Batt. Positive #12-#14 Total
    Ground #12-#14 Total
    Brights #16 7 1/2 or less

    Dims #16 6 or less
    Tail #16 3 or less
    Brake #16 3 or less
    Tach. #16 1 or less
    Horn #14 6 or less
    Coil #16 2 or less
    Indicator light #16 1 or less

    https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/st...-vintage-tech/

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