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  1. #21
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    Got in a little shop time in between all the Christmas activities. The brake surface of the hub was pretty scored and grooved. I didn't want to have to re-lace this wheel, but I also don't want to ever take it this far apart again so I figured I'd better take the time to clean it up now. I unlaced the wheel (saving all the spokes to hopefully reuse) and chucked it up in the lathe. Took .020" off the diameter to clean it up and another .010" finish pass to make it nice and smooth. That's all I got done, took a while to indicate it in and get it all set up. Next time bearings and re-lacing.

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  2. #22
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    Couple steps forward, couple steps back. I broke that triumph hub putting new bearings in it. Guess I must have missed the length of the crush tube, or maybe there was something under one of the bearings that didn't let it seat. Whatever happened when I was pressing the second bearing in the hub cracked at the threaded retainer. Plan B is to run the FX front wheel that's on the bike with a thin rotor and the smallest caliper I can find. Turns out EBC has stopped making the "narrow" sweep rotors for the '84-'99 hubs so I had to pick up one with a 2 1/4" center bore and an adapter ring. Since the EBC rotors aren't counterbored for adapter rings I had to break out the faceplate:

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    I also pulled the girder completely apart for a rebuild. It was pretty wore out (as they all are at this point). New bushings, shafts, axle, and stem plus all new hardware are coming up.

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    I picked up a used (and abused) Paughco springer brake with a PM 125x2 caliper. When I got it mocked up I found that the frontend was too skinny for the bracket to be used, so I machined the caliper body to sink the bracket flush to the top surface. Gained me 1/4" of clearance. I'm going to cut up the Paughco bracket and bolt it fixed to the girder leg. Need to make a new intermediate plate for the caliper itself to serve as the other half of the mount.

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  3. #23
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    Made some good progress, but recently hit a wall. Been rebuilding the girder. Made new shafts and a new stem, sourced new bushings, added an internal fork stop, etc.

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    Went to press the cups in and have a problem. Putting it together the upper cup is not square to the stem. Stem, cups, and bearings are all brand new. If I seat the upper cup fully it's crooked to the stem and the bearing binds, seems to be off a couple degrees and is high in the front edge. Lower cup seems fine, the bearing seats fully and the stem runs right up the middle of the neck. I can see the machining marks top and bottom of the neck, which should be square to the bore right? Seems to me there are two obvious options. Either don't fully seat the upper cup, just press it in until it contacts the front edge of the neck so it stays square, or grind some material off the top surface to try and square it up to the bore? I suspect from the marks on the old upper cup that it may have not been fully seated but I can't say for sure. I did try both the new and old upper cup and they have the same issue. I did not try the old lower cup because I cut it up to make a jig to bore for the pin in the new lower cup, but since it's fully seated I don't see how it could be any different either? Kinda stumped on how this could be? My guess is it happened when the neck was raked?

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  4. #24
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    Well, this is an odd update. Got some tips on who around here fixes old HD frames and went to see him about my '57. In a surprise twist he actually works out of the machine shop attached to the local HD dealership. He quoted me a somewhat salty amount to fix the frame I had, but also turned me onto a friend of his selling a pretty sick pan chop roller. One thing led to another and this jumped in my truck. An even more modified straightleg pan frame. The girder that's on it is about 34"-over (57" from the bottom tree to the axle) but I dunno about running it since it's crazy skinny and has a 17" Invader spool wheel. BUT the bike also came with a brand new Denvers springer made to the specs for the frame. I'm not supposed to have parts this nice. I'm torn between wanting to make sure the neck mods are done right vs. disturbing the really nice molding work around the windowed neck.

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  5. #25
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    ^^ Hell, that's Chopper Porn!

  6. #26
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    I would have it x-rayed before I started chipping Bondo off, a trade school may be able to do for a reasonable fee. If the x-ray showed something suspicious, only then would I start chipping.

  7. #27
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    Nice springer, wanna sell it?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeeman View Post
    Nice springer, wanna sell it?
    Probably not. I'm thinking of swapping it onto the bike so I can run a bigger front wheel.

  9. #29
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    The guy I bought the roller from found an old pic of it from back in the day. "Plum Crazy". I'm trying to save the paint, but there's some bondo dent repair so it's probably not gonna happen.

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  10. #30
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    Holy moly, so excited to see what you turn up with next! Great looking bikes. Good luck!

  11. #31
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    [QUOTE=JLeather;858391]The guy I bought the roller from found an old pic of it from back in the day. "Plum Crazy". I'm trying to save the paint, but there's some bondo dent repair so it's probably not gonna happen.


    Wasn't Plum Crazy a Mopar colour back in the day? Sure I saw that bike featured years ago.

  12. #32
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    Yeah, Plum Crazy Purple. Looks like it was probably the same shade, although this paint was flaked and I *think* the Mopar color was not. I'm sure that's where the guy got some of the inspiration from...

  13. #33
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    The internet truly is a small place. A Facebook friend of a friend saw a pic of that roller I picked up the other day and posted a bunch of old pics of it. Before it was "Plum Crazy" it was red. Apparently built by a guy named Dave Erbe. Always been in and around Baltimore. Check out these old pics of it from back in the day. Been through a few changes already over the years. I'm still gonna switch over to the springer, but I'm gonna try and keep it as much in the same flavor as it used to be (with a pan drivetrain).

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