- Forum
- American Bikes, Build Threads
- Needing advice: Using single mini caliper instead of dual shovelhead
-
12-08-2020 #1
Needing advice: Using single mini caliper instead of dual shovelhead
I want to run just a single mini caliper and 10.5” rotor on the front of my 1980 FXS. I have seen this done. I have the caliper and master cylinder. However, I can’t find the info for the proper fittings and I don’t have any fittings to go off of or bring in to a hydraulic shop.
If someone knows or can point me to this knowledge it would be helpful. My plan is to order the brake line online since everything is closed down here or else I would just bring in the master cylinder and caliper to the hydraulic shop I frequent.
Pic
-
12-08-2020 #2
You need an adapter for each unit to allow the connection of an AN3 brake line, which you already know you can order in several lengths. If the master cylinder uses a banjo bolt and fitting, you need the banjo fitting for AN3 line. You can get several sizes (of bolt) and different angles so you can make it look good. Same for the caliper. If it's an early caliper, you need a 3/16 inverted flare to AN3 adapter. Those are straight only. It's pretty easy to do. Install the adapters first, and then measure for the line so you get the proper length.
Jim
-
12-08-2020 #3
Just want to clarify. I want to run a single caliper from a dual caliper set up. 3/16 inverted flare to AN3 is what I am looking for.
I am not sure if my master used a banjo or not but I can likely figure that end out easier than I can the mini caliper.
Thanks for the info Jim.
-
12-09-2020 #4
I get the question: EVERY time I set up a used brake system, the dif fittings, etc, really fucks my mind up. Heres what I do. I go to my local indy dealer with what I have and let them figure it out. A local hot rod shop can help you the same way
-
12-09-2020 #5
Meant to add: Take what you have with you to the shop and let them work it out
-
12-09-2020 #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2018
- Posts
- 2,281
I used to stock the various adapters because the truth is that about a dozen different ones will cover all the H-D brake systems at least through '00. I've let that stock dwindle because I no longer work on complete bikes.
Jim
-
12-09-2020 #7
Doc, I’m completely locked down because of the coof, or else that’s what I would have done. That’s exactly what I always do for brakes because I’m not a brake or hydraulic specialist ha. But nothing is open for me to do so. So I had to ask.
Jim, thanks again.Last edited by ToneWitch; 12-09-2020 at 11:50 PM.
-
12-11-2020 #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2012
- Posts
- 392
Here's a thought. Post good clear close up pictures of the master cylinder and the caliper, especially where the brake like connects. Then we can help with what kind of fittings you might need. And you don't have to go anywhere and risk getting sick.
I'm also running a single '77-'83 dual disc caliper on a 10" rotor. I haven't done the brake line yet, but my m/c uses a banjo. I plan on a junction under the lower triple tree so I can add a banjo bolt type brake light switch. So I'll have 2 lines, one from the m/c to the junction and one from there to the caliper.
It's also important that you size your m/c to your caliper. Those '77-'83 disc brakes used a 3/4" m/c. The ratio wasn't all that good stock, and if you take away one of the calipers, you're going to need Popeye's forearms and a can of spinach to get stopped. I ended up using an 11 mm m/c that I picked up at a swap meet. Don't know what it came from. There's a pic in this thread, page 3 post #44.
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...t=sporadically.Last edited by MOTher; 12-11-2020 at 1:55 PM.
-
12-12-2020 #9Here's a thought. Post good clear close up pictures of the master cylinder and the caliper, especially where the brake like connects. Then we can help with what kind of fittings you might need. And you don't have to go anywhere and risk getting sick.
I'm also running a single '77-'83 dual disc caliper on a 10" rotor. I haven't done the brake line yet, but my m/c uses a banjo. I plan on a junction under the lower triple tree so I can add a banjo bolt type brake light switch. So I'll have 2 lines, one from the m/c to the junction and one from there to the caliper.
It's also important that you size your m/c to your caliper. Those '77-'83 disc brakes used a 3/4" m/c. The ratio wasn't all that good stock, and if you take away one of the calipers, you're going to need Popeye's forearms and a can of spinach to get stopped. I ended up using an 11 mm m/c that I picked up at a swap meet. Don't know what it came from. There's a pic in this thread, page 3 post #44.
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...t=sporadically.
Nice, i got the idea from a guy I met at a show he was running the stock m/c and didn’t mention those issues. I don’t have the stock M/C it’s a 70’s NOS aftermarket chrome one but I believe it still uses the stock fitting.
Thanks for the tip.
Couldn’t the stiffness be compensated by getting a reduced banjo fitting? I’ve seen where guys have used a reducer>crush washer combination to compensate for something and I wasn’t sure what for but maybe that’s why?
Anyways thanks for the info.
-
12-12-2020 #10
The Drag Specialties "Old Book" catalog has pages of fittings, hoses and connectors to choose from. Most HD Dealers and HD aftermarket shops have that catalog. Also available online I think.
-
12-12-2020 #11
-
12-13-2020 #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Posts
- 1,827
Hope that fucked up spot in the threads in the last picture is just the camera artifaciing. It isn't too noticeable until enlarged about 2x. Be worth casting an eye ball over just to be sure.
Dusty
-
12-13-2020 #13
Share This
Quick Navigation
American Bikes, Build Threads
Top
- Site Areas
- Settings
- Private Messages
- Subscriptions
- Who's Online
- Search Forums
- Forums Home
- Forums
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»