76 XLCH issues

[Captjimmy09]

Just bought this motor yesterday. Started pulling it apart to see how it looked and I started seeing metal shavings everywhere. Pulled the cam cover and I see a ton of metal. Any suggestions? Can’t find anything that looks totally screwed yet.

[JBinNC]

For one thing, that pinion bushing should be a press fit in the cover, not stuck on the end of the pinion shaft. In any event, you have a seriously blown up motor there, so just tear it down to the crankpin and start rebuilding.

Jim

[Dragstews]

Well ....

It looks to be in a tad better shape than this one ...



Kinda looks like a Mk 2 grenade went off in there .. !!

[JBinNC]

Well ....

It looks to be in a tad better shape than this one ...



Kinda looks like a Mk 2 grenade went off in there .. !!

Don't know. He hasn't got that far into his.

Jim

[Captjimmy09]

Ok, thank you guys

[Captjimmy09]

I guess now the question is to rebuild or buy a different motor

[JBinNC]

I guess now the question is to rebuild or buy a different motor

Since all those ironheads are old, most will need a rebuild. But that one will be an exceptionally expensive case. Expect to pay $4000 or more for a COMPETENT rebuild of any ironhead. It's expensive because there is a transmission in there too. And when an ironhead is worn out, EVERYTHING in it is worn out, hence the expense. While you can do some disassembly and assembly at home, there are quite a few special tools needed for a complete rebuild, and even many motorcycle shops can't or won't work on them. Let your pocketbook be your guide.

Jim

[DoomBuggy]

Many moons ago when I owned my 69 XLCH I pulled the heads and did a mild port on them and a good polish on the combustion chamber and exhaust ports. Old ironheads LOVE to breathe and the only tools you need are to tear down the heads.

[Captjimmy09]

Since all those ironheads are old, most will need a rebuild. But that one will be an exceptionally expensive case. Expect to pay $4000 or more for a COMPETENT rebuild of any ironhead. It's expensive because there is a transmission in there too. And when an ironhead is worn out, EVERYTHING in it is worn out, hence the expense. While you can do some disassembly and assembly at home, there are quite a few special tools needed for a complete rebuild, and even many motorcycle shops can't or won't work on them. Let your pocketbook be your guide.

Jim

I appreciate it, probably just should’ve bought a complete motorcycle that ran for that kindof money. Oh well.

[JBinNC]

If you are not dead set on an ironhead, and just want a similar motorcycle project, I recommend the five speed evo XL. They are everywhere, inexpensive, and stone reliable. I prefer the solid mount ones to the rubber mount models. The evo XL can be made to make serious horsepower and so can be a lot of fun.

Jim

[Captjimmy09]

If you are not dead set on an ironhead, and just want a similar motorcycle project, I recommend the five speed evo XL. They are everywhere, inexpensive, and stone reliable. I prefer the solid mount ones to the rubber mount models. The evo XL can be made to make serious horsepower and so can be a lot of fun.

Jim

Ya, I’ve got an 05 1200 but I used to have an Ironhead and enjoyed it a lot. This is my first build from frame up so I’m stuck with it for now.

[JBinNC]

If you are buying an ironhead motor to swap into an existing frame, keep in mind that there are three versions in terms of fit to the frame. Most importantly, the '82 and up rear motor mount is different than the '57 - '81, and trying to adapt them isn't really worth the trouble.

Jim

[Captjimmy09]

If you are buying an ironhead motor to swap into an existing frame, keep in mind that there are three versions in terms of fit to the frame. Most importantly, the '82 and up rear motor mount is different than the '57 - '81, and trying to adapt them isn't really worth the trouble.

Jim

I’ve got a Paughco 120 frame. They told me 76 and earlier Ironheads. I put motor in frame and everything lines up beautifully

[JBinNC]

I’ve got a Paughco 120 frame. They told me 76 and earlier Ironheads. I put motor in frame and everything lines up beautifully

You can slip a '77 - '81 motor into that frame too, with some minor surgery. In my experience, those motors are more durable than the earlier ones, as the oil pump is better and the shafts and bearings are bigger. Just a thought.

Jim

[Captjimmy09]

Ok great, I’m curious now so I’m gonna tear down entire motor and see what’s going on

[Captjimmy09]

You can slip a '77 - '81 motor into that frame too, with some minor surgery. In my experience, those motors are more durable than the earlier ones, as the oil pump is better and the shafts and bearings are bigger. Just a thought.

Jim

Jim, do you know offhand what I would have to do to my Paughco frame in order to fit a later engine?

[JBinNC]

Jim, do you know offhand what I would have to do to my Paughco frame in order to fit a later engine?

The rear motor mount location is the same '52 - '81. And the front motor plates will fit as well. If there is a crossbar between the lower frame tubes that passes under the motor, that will have to be moved back to clear the sump on a '77 and up motor. And you may or may not have to notch the right lower frame tube to clear the '77 and up oil pump. That's all.

If you have an '82 or newer case with a removable rear motor mount, you can install the earlier rear motor mount on that case, and it will fit into the frame, with the above mods. BUT, I don't know if the old style front motor plates will bolt in or not (but I think they will).

It's a couple of easy mods to the frame and/ or the motor, and you can use just about any ironhead.

Jim

[TriNortchopz]

As Jim said, note lower cross tube location; later is further back:

Paughco S-120, '57-'76


Paughco S120, '77-'85


http://www.paughco.com/2008-catalog/...20Paughco.html


Some good detailed reference material here:

IH: Engine Mechanical
Engine Mounts

"-Removing / Installing Motor Mounts
-Bolt Type and Lengths
-Rear mount to frame bolts
-Rear Mounts: 1982-1985 mount offsets the engine 13/32” to the left of the position for pre 1982 engines and don't have the hole in them for the kicker shaft to go through.
-Broken / cracked rear mount: Originally, the rear motor mount was made of steel and had 4 bolts in the top.
Later it was made of aluminum and prone to cracking. The steel mount will never crack.
-Removing the rear mount
-Lower Front Mounts
-Top Mounts, 1957-1976 top mount, and, 1977-1985 top mounts

http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ih:engmech09

[TriNortchopz]

maybe some IH parts here of interest:

Ryan Latiolais
Highly Rated · October 9
Montgomery, AL

Many Ironhead parts needing to clean up for this winters projects! Lmk what your looking for! Paypal and shipping available!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/215445848649863/