We continue with the sixth and final chapter of the transmission restoration. All of the required shims have arrived and I will be combining them together based on my notes so that the fork placement will be moved to center. The forks, cleaned in the last video and reassembled with new locking clips from the rebuild kit, though the locking tabs will not be bent down until final testing is complete. 120in/lbs Tightens the fork assembly and it is re-introduced into the transmission.
Reassembled, everything is re staged with the alignment tool to conduct testing for the adjustments. It turned out it was almost perfect but I went one more round of adjustment to get it perfect. Setting up again for testing, with everything centered nicely. I take it all out one last time to bend down the locking tabs and re-assemble with a new shaft and o-ring.
The new sprocket will be installed onto the shaft with the new lock washer. The whole unit is mounted on the bike to torque correctly. Sadly for left hand torque I bought the AC-DELCO ARM602-4A digital torque wrench adapter. This was the only video this piece of garbage work in, it never worked again.
Back on the bench more pieces are prepared, as the oil slinger and clutch throw-out are disassembled, cleaned, inspected and reassembled. The side cover positions are then specifically addressed in the video, since the workshop book is , well, confusing. Once the positions are understood, the nut on the starter shaft bolt is tightened to 30-35 ft/lbs. As my case is older, the gasket surfaces are covered with a thin coat of Hylomar. All studs are pre-chased with a nut before this installation. Pulling out the oil slinger a bit makes it easier to negotiate the cover on, rolling the inside to the 9 oclock position just off-cam as its assembled for less resistance.
Keeping in mind, i'm using Nord-lock washers, my torque computation will be slightly different than stock. Conducted in a star configuration. The kicker arm can be used to rotate and bring the kicker shaft so that the arm is in the 12o'clock position, then the spring can be installed. Then secured with the kick arm bolt and nut.
On top of the transmission. New rollers are provided with the kit and added to the forks, I add some oil to them during installation. Conducting a final inspection as I roll through the gears, removing any dirt found. The top gasket is then laid down in position. A bit of anti seize is added to where the steel pins go through for alignment. The forks are moved to the neutral position, as the shifter is also brought to neutral. The cover is then laid down onto the transmission. Each screw receives blue locktite. Then 100 in/lbs. Star pattern.
Transmission oil is then added to the unit, not full but enough for storage and testing. The clutch lever is then added and then tightened down. An inspection of the cover weeks later shown no oil leak. We roll through all of the gears to test functionality, everything seems to be just fine. All I need to do now is finish the engine and the bike.
Reassembled, everything is re staged with the alignment tool to conduct testing for the adjustments. It turned out it was almost perfect but I went one more round of adjustment to get it perfect. Setting up again for testing, with everything centered nicely. I take it all out one last time to bend down the locking tabs and re-assemble with a new shaft and o-ring.
The new sprocket will be installed onto the shaft with the new lock washer. The whole unit is mounted on the bike to torque correctly. Sadly for left hand torque I bought the AC-DELCO ARM602-4A digital torque wrench adapter. This was the only video this piece of garbage work in, it never worked again.
Back on the bench more pieces are prepared, as the oil slinger and clutch throw-out are disassembled, cleaned, inspected and reassembled. The side cover positions are then specifically addressed in the video, since the workshop book is , well, confusing. Once the positions are understood, the nut on the starter shaft bolt is tightened to 30-35 ft/lbs. As my case is older, the gasket surfaces are covered with a thin coat of Hylomar. All studs are pre-chased with a nut before this installation. Pulling out the oil slinger a bit makes it easier to negotiate the cover on, rolling the inside to the 9 oclock position just off-cam as its assembled for less resistance.
Keeping in mind, i'm using Nord-lock washers, my torque computation will be slightly different than stock. Conducted in a star configuration. The kicker arm can be used to rotate and bring the kicker shaft so that the arm is in the 12o'clock position, then the spring can be installed. Then secured with the kick arm bolt and nut.
On top of the transmission. New rollers are provided with the kit and added to the forks, I add some oil to them during installation. Conducting a final inspection as I roll through the gears, removing any dirt found. The top gasket is then laid down in position. A bit of anti seize is added to where the steel pins go through for alignment. The forks are moved to the neutral position, as the shifter is also brought to neutral. The cover is then laid down onto the transmission. Each screw receives blue locktite. Then 100 in/lbs. Star pattern.
Transmission oil is then added to the unit, not full but enough for storage and testing. The clutch lever is then added and then tightened down. An inspection of the cover weeks later shown no oil leak. We roll through all of the gears to test functionality, everything seems to be just fine. All I need to do now is finish the engine and the bike.
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