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What I'm doing is going from a R-100 (Bottom of the IH light truck line in 54) to a R-140 which was a factory 4X4 ...
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I may be a tad nuts, but I'm not bat-sh*t crazy !!
4L60 behind a BBC? I hope THAT gearbox got a gut rehab! Good transmission design but herptastic execution by the bean counters.
Just added one of these to the LS frame rail slicing tool kit. A two-cripple crew can skin drivetrain donors so fast it's worth the time dual saws save. (If the damn yard would get ahead of forklift maintenance instead of being reactive that would be awesome but some dreams never come true....) The short stroke remarked on in reviews is a bonus when cutting steel near obstacles. Torque and stroke rate are what matters as useful reach is determined by blade length in vehicle slaying. Saw brand isn't critical but I've got plenty of batteries from other tools so the DeWalt won the day, adding more 28V batteries to my old but superb pre-buyout Milwaukee being uneconomic.
I have corded Sawzalls too of course and they're cheap used. (Blade chuck parts etc are quite reasonable if ya wear out any of that stuff. I love old Milwaukee tools and going used gets me tools I'd rather not pay retail for like the glorious 5196 die grinder.)
I've not blasted my hubs yet to send down for wheel building but since this is also a GM truck drivetrain thread here's some info other 33ers might use:
Reprogramming GM LS and other computers to tune, downloading .bin files (especially custom files so if your ECU dies one day you can just flash another on the spot instead of waiting and paying). Don't be afraid to tackle it but do practice on a spare ECU first. Self and bro are harvesting complete drivetrains from salvage and deleting VATS so we can run the engines on a stand to demonstrate and make them much more desirable than the usual pulls buyers cannot see run.
It's easy and cheap to make a bench programming harness,
In this episode, we build a simple LS bench wiring harness that you can use to program your ECM/PCM when it's not installed in the vehicle.Join the Lowbuck L...
feed it about 14 or 15 volts (12 volts is too little so just running off a battery = no joy, though in a pinch you could clip some very long leads to a running truck which would be awkward but work) from a cheap bench power supply like this one I bought for my "kit"
Previous Next ProfessionalDiagnostic Kits FROM $80 Shop Now Tuning MADEAFFORDABLEFor EVERYONE Shop Now Fast Delivery Worldwide Postage Easy SUPPORT All questions welcome! SECURE Payments Many Options Available OUR GIFT Sign up for gifts and discounts FROM $80 Realtime Diagnostics and Vehicle Monitoring OBDX Pro VT – OBD2 VPW Diagnostics and TuningShop Now Read More "Home"
and use your choice of PC or Android device. I picked up a Fire 10 tablet (2021 version, ya want to check and make sure your Android device if ya use one has the right Android version and never update it! If it auto-updates by accident since you were smart and backed up all your APK files, bin files etc off the device you can just reset it) to learn the Android side of the house. I already have old Windows notebooks (old Thinkpads are cheap) to download and reprogram that way. Windows 7 or 10 will do and the computer can be almost any old shitbox.
All the software ya need for the basics is free like LSDroid to download and reprogram and Universal Patcher, PCM Hammer, TunerPro to edit bin files. Lots of useful stuff is hosted on Github and videos cover how to download it which is (because of Github's original purpose) not what more users are used to. When starting out with any such software I take lots of screenshots for reference.
You can skip the hardware if you want to just download software and .bin files to practice with. The GM tuning community is huge and videos abound from folks like Lowbuck LS for beginners like me.
People wanting a 4L80E standalone controller can roll their own easily too:
EDIT 9/26/16 - Now I have over 400 miles on this stand alone transmission controller. I also recently turned on the torque converter clutch to activate in overdrive. Everything is working perfectly and shifts just like it should.
As the subject says. This is for those guys who are running
Others here will be much more advanced than I but there aren't a lot of basic overview posts like this out there so maybe it will be useful. There are many old GM trucks out there cheap and they get a lot cheaper when they won't start because the keys were lost and the owner doesn't want to tow the truck to a dealer then pay out the ass, and pay even more if it has BCM or wiring or sensor issues.
Any 33ers familiar with how to do the same stuff on Fords for free (I'm fine with running cracked OEM software)? I've not gotten into that yet and Ford truck forum posts tend to be useless. The OBDX GM people figured out free software sells their adapters and everyone wins. The Ford aftermarket side of the house want their money from vendor lock and license revenue which sells far fewer devices and doesn't build a community even close to as supportive.
That red jewel thing looks gaudy as fuck vs. the classic clean dash you have so far. The rectangular shape fails to be round like the other dash bits.
DON'T DO IT!
There should be something quality, perhaps vintage and round with a thin bezel which will work and look kool and clean. Maybe these gents have something or trigger an idea of a good vehicle to pillage:
That red jewel thing looks gaudy as fuck vs. the classic clean dash you have so far. The rectangular shape fails to be round like the other dash bits.
DON'T DO IT!
There should be something quality, perhaps vintage and round with a thin bezel which will work and look kool and clean.
Don't have a lot of room at the ends of the dash, from what I'm seeing there is little choice on what fits in that area ..
So far all the A/C components I have acquired came from "Old Air Products" ....
Kinda need the vents in hand to make the call on what will be used ...
Been keeping a eye open for some that may fit the contour of the dash that came off of old cars ...
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