My new project 88 FLHTC

[7and7is]

My new "project" and not really a project, just tearing down to the frame and going though everything, cleaning, torquing everything to specs, getting rid of the rust, PO put a 21" spoke front rim, and got rid of one of the rotor/brake calipers, I am going to improve on the suspension, better brakes, otherwise I am leaving as is cause i likey the way it looks, what I am finding out is, this bike, at its heart, is just a big over groan sportster that's easier to work on, may put on some apes (don't be hate'n on the apes).

[1954bmw]

More pics please, what size is that 21 on the front??

[markwade74]

I like it.

Recently I, somewhat skeptically, picked up an ultra classic tour glide with the same intentions. Turns out I changed the bars and bent up a sissy bar for it and have decided to leave it alone.

As much as I thought it wasnt for me and the usual fuck a bagger bs I have grown to love it. It rips and I can ride it in absolute comfort for hours. Definitely has its place.

I do like the looks of that seat, which is the only other thing im thinking of changing on my bike



Nice score, I think you'll enjoy it

[7and7is]

Few more pics, I'll get that tire size for you 1954bmw.




That last pic is a mirror image hence the back-word wording on the fairing (Ghetto blaster)

[farmall]

Wiseman makes some nice brake upgrades for that style Wide Glide and the stock single piston calipers suck even on lighter bikes even when there are two of them. One is marginal for a Sporty let alone a bagger. Previous owner was silly for not using a dual disc hub but now the scoot is in good hands. Later sliders (or adapters but sliders are often cheap) permit using four piston later calipers which are also good stuff.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...l=1#post848620

BTW that's the same drivetrain as that generation FXR so stuff like swingarm pivot upgrades etc swap if you're ever in there for maintenance. The clutch is fine for normal use but does not like being slipped (narrow plates) and the tapered shaft clutch hub towers require a correct puller (easy to make) to remove them as they snap easily. However aftermarket hubs with steel towers are available if ya crack one. If the cam is original they do have the INA cam bearing so at whatever mileage ya inspect the timing chest use the proper puller (generic expanding pullers work until they don't and spray rollers and race chunks around the shop and preferably not back into the engine) and you'll be happy. My '88 drivetrain is fine after all these years and I'll probably throw it in another frame.

Those Evos really thrive on a camshaft swap which is a good time to inspect the rollers and snatch the INA bearing (Timkens are cheap).
I'd also look under the points cover to inspect the pickup since 1988 was a couple million years ago and the potting sometimes reverts before the pickup croaks, but replacements are cheap.

Later air shocks bolt on and takeoffs are cheap. I forget the part numbers for the different lengths.

I don't hate on apes. 14" w. 2" welded risers work great for me, but piss on trying to retain apes with the shitty stock clamp setup unless ya figure yer clock position then weld tab stops beneath the riser cap so they can't move.

They're excellent reliable transportation.

[7and7is]

Lots of good info farmall, I welcome any other FLH guys out there keep the info coming, my world for the last 15 years has been 03 sporty, the 03 was great but it was a wiring nightmare they packed so much into a small package, this bike is so simple, removed the rear tire and pulled the rear brake and serviced it and cleaned up the rim, pulled the rotor cleaned it up and re torqued (locktight) the bolts (funny thing, well not funny, was the bolts on the rear rotor were just snugged down, what?!), slapped it all back together, set belt tension, made sure the alignment was spot on, all in about 45 min with hardly breaking a sweat (well i did sweat being that it was 95+ in my little shed) with the FLH the wheel spacer sit in recessed cups so they don't fall out of place, on the sporty you have to slide the tire into place, line up the spacer, and hope it doesn't fall out, then slide in the axle also hoping you have the brake lined up, just a pain in the ass, but yea send the tips and tricks and any good sources for after market stuff, do need a service manual, dealer wants $130, not sure about Clymer manual as it spans from 84 to 98, does anyone have a source for PDF/online manual? would be appreciated.

[markwade74]

Carlsalter.com should have a free download

[farmall]

Carl Salter and the Facebook Harley PDF Trade and Share Group are outstanding. Ebay is good for used books (and they're gonna get greasy/bloody/booze-drenched anyway).

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1465...?ref=bookmarks

HD often had multiple parts catalogs as years went by.

https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/198...IVoQ-bowk2-DNb

https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/198...HsTLjS_jycZMb6

There are plenty more so spend time and download MANY as ya never know when they will vanish from the internet.

I welcome any other FLH guys out there keep the info coming

For the drivetrain especially study FXRs as those owners tended to dig deeper. One thing both have in common is they can use the same other big twin drivetrains including Twin Cam.

[7and7is]

Thanks guys, got a couple of them downloaded, definitely going to go over everything, and for now if it isn't broke going to make sure it's all "tightened" up or to spec, get the fluids changed and ride the piss out of it, as i haven't ridden in 5 months, going to try my hand at making a seat pan and having it covered, come this winter, definitely going to contact Wiseman for some brake upgrades, Ive already reached out to him (Thanks farmall), thanks all for the responses keep'm coming.

[farmall]

Used seats are plentiful for pan donors too. I forget the year range that fits but it's large.

Gel pacs could be a comfy addition. I like the one in a LePera that came with an FXR I bought and any future seats I have covered will get one.

[7and7is]

Quick question about oil grade according to the manual if the temp is over 70 run 50w, if its over 80 run 60w, could I get away with just running 20w50 year round, or is this bike funny, I know oil has came a long way since 1988 just figure it should hold up and be more user friendly not having to change oil because the temp drops below 80,

[farmall]

I live in SC and run 60W in everything (Evos and Shovels) for convenience but I've run 20W50 with no problems in my Evos and would if I lived where there was actual winter. Run whatever and if it starts using oil, go thicker. Mine had 100K miles of general abuse before the first top end job (which it didn't really need but da wife was bored so she did it while I was in Korea) and all was well. I'll probably bolt that engine into another frame but it got swapped for a 124. If you keep some sort of oil in them they're like the LS of motorcycles. On one road trip I could only find 30WT and STP at a convenience store so they went into the oil tank since it was a hot summer. I don't do oil fetishes, just plenty of clean oil.

BTW don't forget to change the transmission oil, primary oil and fork oil because previous owners tend to ignore that.

[KevinN]

The old Evo FLH bikes are great rides and the suspension geometry is easy on the back. As mentioned they need quality lifters and inner cam bearings. I brought this '95 FLHR back from the dead last winter and I like riding it so much I haven't bothered to finish up the paint work. It looks like a bunch of swap meet parts holding hands(because it is) Some hack destroyed the rear frame section so I had to reverse engineer to rebuild. Total rewire was a bitch but first time I switched on the key , no smoke show. I adapted a later model swing arm and four piston rear caliper along with a 19" wheel off a street glide that I had to machine spacers to eliminate the front ABS bearings. Next winter is front brake upgrade.

[7and7is]

Keep the good stuff coming any info is appreciated, here is a pic of the pick up, looks like a little jiz is coming out of it, its not loose (the jiz) its very thick and tacky the bike starts and idles fine (havn't taken it out for a long ride) what do ya think?

[7and7is]

Just a little update, took the exhaust off and removed the heat wrap and the pipes underneath were in good shape so cleaned them up and polished them will have some pics soon, took the carb off as it appeared the float was off or the needle had some debris as gas was coming out of the overflow, opened it up and it was pristine, went ahead and clean everything, had a brand new high flow petcock was going to put on the sporty, slapped that on and replaced the fuel line, all seems fine as no gas coming out of the overflow now, new shocks are supposed to be here tomorrow (J&P premium adjustable 11" to 12.5" mono tube design), get them on then I can get the back end buttoned up, cant tear the whole bike down at one time as I am in a 10'x15' storage shed and just not enough room, and I might add one hot mutha, then I'll start on the front end.

[7and7is]

Took the Glide out for a little ride yesterday, defiantly need to upgrade the front brake caliper/rotor, also the front forks need servicing, got the new shocks on and sag set and everything from the seat back feels sorted, as promised pipe pics.

[markwade74]

Keep the good stuff coming any info is appreciated, here is a pic of the pick up, looks like a little jiz is coming out of it, its not loose (the jiz) its very thick and tacky the bike starts and idles fine (havn't taken it out for a long ride) what do ya think?

Haha, mine was the same! Replaced it and the coil recently

[7and7is]

Pulled the outer fairing, and removed the forks and all the air assist junk, funny thing, one fork almost fell out when I loosened everything and the other one I had to hammer out, going to clean them up and put in some 20wt (suggested by JB) going through all the crappy ass wiring and try to tidy it up, leaving the radio out as I don't care to listen to music when I ride, prefer the sound of the exhaust purring, speedo isn't working is there anyway to trouble shoot the speedo cable (experts chime in) also going to replace the brake line and caliper as the PO went to a single disc and cut and plugged the other line.

[JBinNC]

Just pull the core out of the speedo cable and see if it is intact. Grease it while you have it out. When the drive turns, the cable core should turn at the speedo end.

Jim

[7and7is]

Thanks Jim, apparently the PO bent the little tab on the drive, I bent the tab back in place, greased the cable, and its working fine, thanks again, while looking through my PDF manual found a glaring mistake, they listed the torque value for the clutch spring retaining bolts as 76 to 96 ft lbs, and I was like no way! however in the chart to follow they had it listed in inch lbs, man that could really mess someone up.