How to bleed this ??
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I use any available connection at the highest point in the system because air rises so I'd bleed that at the banjo bolt. If no joy I'd unbolt it from the frame, stick something between the pads that's thicker than the rotor to keep them apart, then bleed with the banjo bolt held vertically.Comment
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I use any available connection at the highest point in the system because air rises so I'd bleed that at the banjo bolt. If no joy I'd unbolt it from the frame, stick something between the pads that's thicker than the rotor to keep them apart, then bleed with the banjo bolt held vertically.
That is real cool looking caliper I've never seen one like it.......Comment
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If you can hold sickle straight up vertical like on a lift table, remove the master Cylinder cover, be sure that MC is at least 1/2 full.
Begin slowly pumping the brake foot lever with your hand, if the MC is in correct shape and the Caliper also, you will see bubbles rise from the bottom of the MC.
Pump fast and slow, pump all the way down and halfway down, let the lever spring back fast and/or slow -- you will see what works best. After a few minutes OR sometimes Many minutes you will feel the lever get stiffer as the bubbles evacuate the system.
It always works with All MC's and Calipers, some take longer than others.Last edited by frisco1rigid; 10-13-2021, 4:56 PM.Comment
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If you can hold sickle straight up vertical like on a lift table, remove the master Cylinder cover, be sure that MC is at least 1/2 full.
Begin slowly pumping the brake foot lever with your hand, if the MC is in correct shape and the Caliper also, you will see bubbles rise from the bottom of the MC.
Pump fast and slow, pump all the way down and halfway down, let the lever spring back fast and/or slow -- you will see what works best. After a few minutes OR sometimes Many minutes you will feel the lever get stiffer as the bubbles evacuate the system.
It always works with All MC's and Calipers, some take longer than others.Comment
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Look right under the top run of the chain on the second larger pic. Looks like a rubber cover over a bleeder.
DustyDriving that train, high on cocaine
Casey Jones you better, watch your speed
Trouble ahead, trouble behind
And you know that notion just crossed my mindComment
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Even if it does have a bleeder unless the bleeder is at the highest point the banjo bolt will likely work better.
Where paint etc matters I place a terrycloth towel or wad of other towels around the banjo or bleed nipple (it's common for hoses to slip off poorly designed nipples) with a plastic trash bag beneath the towel. Towel controls fluid, bag prevents fluid going where it should not.
Is that a set screw on the side of the caliper directly opposite the banjo bolt and if so what does it do? Might be the designers idea of a stealthy nipple.
You could drill and tap the banjo bolt for a bleeder screw but standard threads are not designed to seal against hydraulic pressure which is why most bleeder nipples have a tapered end which seats in a female taper. I'd just use the banjo bolt as I've done for decades on personal and customer bikes especially when bleeding air from handlebar master cylinders. They work as well or better than a nipple and unlike nipples don't tend to seize on neglected "other peoples" bikes.Last edited by farmall; 10-13-2021, 11:20 PM.Comment
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I think those phiilips screws are the bleeders. It's not conventional. but I've got a box of old Sifton/Star calipers that bleed in a similar way. Here's a link to a thread on the Jockey Journal that mentions them and has some pics. The 4 screws on the flat surface of the caliper are bleeders. and have a gasket/o ring of sorts under the screw head.
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