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  1. #1
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    Default What is this frame???

    Does anyone kno what this frame goes to?????

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  2. #2
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    Looks like a unit construction Triumph 650,'63 - '69 ('70 had bolt on front engine plates). Hardtail section welded on, neck raked, neck section filled and molded, outboard lugs added for forward controls.

    1970 frame:
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  3. #3
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    You are the man! ����

  4. #4
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    TNC is correct, its a 1964-69 Triumph unit 650 frame, with a bolt on hardtail. 63 is first year unit 650 but those frames are one year only and uniique, same as 1970, last year before OIF-Oil in frame, the engine mount and kick stand lug is unique, so yours is 64-69.

    Heres something most people dont know, but I bet TNC has some period ads, I do as well some old AEE or Jammer catalog ads, but a LOT of people made hardtails for a variety of bikes, both bolt on and weld on hardtails.

    So, when you ordered one, you specified drop and stretch. Drop means how much it lowers the bike, tricky as you still want it to handle. Sits too high in the front, either too long forks or too much drop then the handling goes to shit. (Some hipsters like the "NorCal style" which is very high front ends, but if you rode one, chances are you wont like it.,,)
    But..... A hardtail with a lot of drop wont tilt it too much, its more about the fork length, just be aware it does matter though... Most guys aimed for a 4x4 block of wood, some a 2x4 and 4x4 together. Too low and every speed bump or parking lot entrance and you will high center.

    Now stretch. This is important, although MOST people had no idea on how important it is.
    Most hardtails you could specify, 0-2-4-6. Not sure if any went beyond that, but maybe. Id have to look at a ad. But stretch fails in with rake and trail, so a longer bike will handle differently than a shorter one. That whole discussion? You should read up on that seperately, Chopper Builders handbook has an excellent chapter on it.,

    But the second effect on stretch is your fender, Oil bag-tank and location for your battery. One with little to no stretch wont have room for many chopper-bobber oil bags, that means you have to hang one off the side, But the round or octagon ones likely wont fit.

    But even more stretch, and likely you can fit in a horse shoe tank or a bigger Octagon with intergrated battery tray. Same goes with accy box, electrical, battery and how you hang parts on it.

    One thing about all that molding. Its scary to know whats underneath and you cant inspect the frame with that crap on there. It MIGHT be cracked, it might have bad welds, It MIGHT be ok! So, unless you can XRAY it, Id strip it down to bare metal and do a good inspection, or consider having it checked with Zyglo or liquid penetrant inspection.

    I do have a neck here we cut off a frame and replaced it with a goose neck. Its cracked and I am very glad we stripped it and inspected. Someone tried raking it and big hairy cracks on either side. Thing is a stock neck is a cast iron casting. You cant bend them,,,nor should you weld on them as they are brazed at the factory to plain steel, so first bit of welding its going to pop pop fizz fizz brass into the welds.

    SHOULD be frame numbers on the neck under that bondo or molding.

  5. #5
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    T120 frame differences, 1963 - 1966:

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    https://triumphbonneville120.co.uk/service-sheets.php

  6. #6
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    Default

    nice moulding job on it, too! looks a lot like one i used to have about 9 years ago.

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