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  1. #1
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    Default Early Pan Drive Side Timken

    A google search isn't finding me what I want!..

    There was a magazine article many years ago now that covered this in detail. Custom Chopper maybe? I still have it but don't have the time to look for it now. IIRC there was no welding involved, but cautioned how some engines wouldn't have the insert located precisely enough for machining. There's got to be several other ways to skin this cat also?

    The insert in my 48 EL cases are only off center 2-3 thou

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    If your cast-in insert is tight in the case, your best course of action by far is to keep the straight roller set-up it came with.

    Jim

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    It's hard to argue with logic, so I guess in principle I mostly agree.

    What issues do you suspect they were mostly trying to solve by going to the Timken?

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    That Timken bearing set-up is very strong, good for a couple hundred HP, easy. It also controls crankshaft end float, which makes setting up the bottom end a little easier. BUT, your early case has precious little material to support that large bearing assembly, and you have to locate it precisely so that the flywheel assembly is centered axially in the case.

    If you have a good case, keep the stock bearing. If your case isn't good, you will have to do some welding and machining no matter which bearing set-up you use.

    Jim

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    I like the idea of the crank being precisely located more than anything. Anything that isn't just kinda rubs me the wrong way

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    The '48 crank is located by selected thrust washers between the flywheels and the case races on each side. The tolerance is only a few thou, so I would say it's precise. The early crank bearing set-up will handle any horsepower you will be able to get out of a pan motor unless it is radical, and for that you should really start with stronger cases and leave the old stuff to the restorers.

    My opinion only, as always,
    Jim

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    I'm not a fan of the floating and rubbing thrust method, but once again I say, if you're only considering the bottom line I can't argue with not seeking out improvement

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    You would be better off mating a '58 - up generator left case to your right case if you really want the Timken bearing.

    Jim

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    Ha, no. I'm a machinist, pretty good one I think

    Maybe a bit stubborn also

    Edit: but I learned long ago not to try inventing the wheel again. I was hoping a hundred guys would hop on showing me all the ways they did it. I then mull it over and see what's worth keeping and what isn't. Still enjoy solving a good problem tho
    Last edited by oneuptom; 10-08-2021 at 3:48 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oneuptom View Post
    Ha, no. I'm a machinist, pretty good one I think

    Maybe a bit stubborn also

    Edit: but I learned long ago not to try inventing the wheel again. I was hoping a hundred guys would hop on showing me all the ways they did it. I then mull it over and see what's worth keeping and what isn't. Still enjoy solving a good problem tho
    Yeah, I'm a machinist too, and one of the things my old boss often said, was, don't reinvent the wheel. Before you cut up a good case, get a '58 - '69 left case so you can see what is involved. The retainer thread alone will be a challenge.

    Jim

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    Hint, think outside the box for how to do this!

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    Not to hijack this thread but was hoping to get more info on the kk/knuckle cam grind. Maybe another thread? Thanks

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    No problem, I loved talking with Jim, what a gracious man!.. I didn't know the Sportster blanks were wider. He suggested using them for my cams when I said my KK rollers were tracking to the edge of the cams. He said all the Ks did that. Pretty sure it was me who asked why I couldn't use a Knuck grind. I can't remember now exactly why I thought they'd be good for what I wanted and why I didn't want any of his K-KR grinds. They were .400 lift or just a little over as I recall with intake lobe centers around 101.

    They really woke that bike up and were super tractable?

    Loved his desert racing stories too!

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    (To no one in particular)

    I saw a video where a fellow was machining for roller thrust bearings between the flywheel and case.

    It's not the timken setup.. But, any advantage you see there?

    Be less friction and more precise centering. I do wonder about longevity?

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    Quote Originally Posted by confab View Post
    (To no one in particular)

    I saw a video where a fellow was machining for roller thrust bearings between the flywheel and case.

    It's not the timken setup.. But, any advantage you see there?

    Be less friction and more precise centering. I do wonder about longevity?
    An attempt was made to do that on the pinion side to control crank flex in race motors. I don't think it proved successful. On the old big twin fuel motors they do away with the pinion bearing and machine the case for a single Timken with a ball bearing outboard. That extra Timken is supposed to control the crank flex or spread and works better than the thrust bearing. The ball bearing keeps the pinion shaft centered so the gears don't self-destruct.

    Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by oneuptom View Post

    There's got to be several other ways to skin this cat also?
    There is ....




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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    There is ....



    Ah, the 9028 bearing. MUCH easier to do than the 9029 that the OP proposed.

    Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Ah, the 9028 bearing. MUCH easier to do than the 9029 that the OP proposed.

    Jim
    "Easier" ...

    Don't think I would have choose that word ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    There is ....



    What are we looking at, exactly?

    A timken retrofit?

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    "Easier" ...

    Don't think I would have choose that word ...
    Hey, the OP says he's a machinist.

    Jim

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