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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    9

    Default 1998 Sportster project

    Hello,

    My name is Gavin. I started a thread back in January documenting my progress but it must have been removed. Oh well Ill just start from the top. Around April of last year I ended up with a 1998 Sportster that needed some work. Been sitting after the previous owner passed away and the bike ended up in the possession of someone who didn't have a lot of time for the bike.

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    Once I got the bike I ended up trying to take it in a swing arm chopper route but didn't end up really digging it to much.

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    Bike ended up sitting for a minute while I brain stormed on what path I wanted to take with it. Didn't decided what I actually wanted to do with it until I was knee deep in paramedic school so the obvious thing to do was just throw the project on top of all my other responsibilities with school. Bought a throttle addiction hardtail and cut the frame in half once it arrived. With a little help from my dad we were able to get the frame cut and welded within a few hours.

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    Assembled the bike into a roller shortly after.

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    Once the bike was a roller the bike went back to sitting. For awhile. Once May of this year came around I finally found the time to start painting. I decided to challenge myself with the painting (for my skill level it was a challenge). I started off trying to do skinny flames with a black base coat and decided I could do way better. After a few tries of laying down masking tape to mark off my flames I decided to give gold leaf a shot.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Obviously with how shit I was at painting and gold leaf the first try didn't go well at all.

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    Nothing sanding all the gold leaf off couldn't fix. My second attempt was a lot better. Ended up outlining the flames with 1/8in masking tape and covered that with blue masking tape. Took a razer blade and cut the flames out and this attempt was good enough for me once I got the masking tape all off.

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    Did the gas tank next. Didn't realize how difficult it was to get the flames to meet my standard until I was three hours deep just putting down the 1/8in masking tape for the gas tank.

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    Still ended up with imperfections but at that point I was about 3 solid weekends into just trying to do the gold leaf flames. If it looks good from 10 feet away then it was good enough for me.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Once I finished all the painting work for the gas tank and oil tank I put a black basecoat down on my frame and hit it with some clear. After that I started throwing the bike back together.

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    And here is where I sit with the bike now.

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    Still got a lot of work to do but I think its shaping up pretty well.

  4. #4
    Senior Member

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    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    12,811

    Default

    Looking pretty dang cool ..

    Have ya gave any thought to kicking out the neck with a rake kit ??

    3 Raked Fork Neck Cup Kit Chrome



    Kit includes a chrome cup set, bearing set, dust shields, and a longer fork stem and adapter.
    The longer fork stem and adapter fits the neck but will not accept stock fork stem lock. This has a built in external fork stop tab. Raked neck bearing and race kits will require longer fork tubes to be installed on all applications. There is a second spacer machined in cup.

  5. #5

    Default

    looks rad! i dig the skinny flames. after having a hard time painting the tank on my bike, i had to step back and realize i'm not building a show bike lol, just need it to be good enough for me. i think the amount of pristine bikes i see here and on ig is cool, to see how far ideas can get pushed and refined, but also skews what's normal for the average builder to be able to do.

    sick build, stoked to see the rest of it.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Looking pretty dang cool ..

    Have ya gave any thought to kicking out the neck with a rake kit ??

    3 Raked Fork Neck Cup Kit Chrome



    Kit includes a chrome cup set, bearing set, dust shields, and a longer fork stem and adapter.
    The longer fork stem and adapter fits the neck but will not accept stock fork stem lock. This has a built in external fork stop tab. Raked neck bearing and race kits will require longer fork tubes to be installed on all applications. There is a second spacer machined in cup.
    I have not considered kicking out the neck. Not really my style but my mind might change if I throw anything else together.

  7. #7
    Senior Member

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    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Did you build the bars? They look great.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CycleFreak View Post
    Did you build the bars? They look great.
    Negative. They were a set of throttle addiction 11 inch T-Bars. I ended up throwing them in the band saw and cutting off I think about two inches from each side to narrow them out. Never been a fan of wide bars!

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Been a minute since I updated with my progress. This was the final assembly of the bike prior to sending it to the shop. I leave minds greater than my own to finish out the wiring and plumbing process. Been at the shop for about a month now should have it back soon! A few days of good weather left in Denver to get a couple nice rides in.

  10. #10
    Member

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    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Looks good. I like that gold flake work. I've been running some 10 inch t bars from lowbrow with about 1 1/2 inches cut off the ends, but I've got some 4 bends rabbits on the way from Zombie Performance. Hopefully I'll get a few rides in before the real cold/snow hits here.

  11. #11

    Default

    Just curious, who do you use for a shop?

  12. #12

    Default

    I just recently purchased the same hardtail frame. I put the engine in after chopping it and my motor mounts didn’t line up. Did you have any issues like this ? Any advice would help. Thanks .

  13. #13

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    235

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Georges91 View Post
    I just recently purchased the same hardtail frame. I put the engine in after chopping it and my motor mounts didn’t line up. Did you have any issues like this ? Any advice would help. Thanks .
    The frame is under tension. What happens when you cut it, is the freed tension pulls the frame rails apart. Just use ratchet straps to pull it back together and bolt your motor up.

    You need to have your motor in when you tack weld the hardtail section in place. The motor acts as a frame jig to keep everything together. Not loosely bolted on, but properly tightened down to torque specs. This is important.

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Down View Post
    The frame is under tension. What happens when you cut it, is the freed tension pulls the frame rails apart. Just use ratchet straps to pull it back together and bolt your motor up.

    You need to have your motor in when you tack weld the hardtail section in place. The motor acts as a frame jig to keep everything together. Not loosely bolted on, but properly tightened down to torque specs. This is important.
    Thanks for your help. I did exactly what you told me and everything line up perfectly. Gonna take it to school this weekend and tig weld it. Click image for larger version. 

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