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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Yep, we ran two Dyna S, stacked, on our Pro Drag fuel bike, up to '06 (when I retired from that fun).

    Jim
    Drag race campers from hell! Buncha heatherns! LOL

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Oh yea on a drag bike that's the way to go for sure in the modern era of drag bikes............. I'd even bet your drag bikes had a rev limiter in the later years......
    But he doesn't have a drag bike........ Did you ever run points back in the day??????????

    I didn't say I didn't like Dyna I was just trying to give him suggestions to help him fix his bike........ Just like you do.........

    This was my first post you guys need to read it again.....

    {I say points will solve your problems.................... I doubt it's your valve adjustment........ And fix your oil leak..........

    Also you really need to get that almost kink out of your fuel line............. That will be a problem in the future...............}
    The Dyna S gives a consistent spark down to zero rpm. It is more consistent and dependable than points any day, and all the more so these days when condensers are hit or miss quality wise. The fuel bike application is just an example of the Dyna S reliability. Ignition is PARAMOUNT for a fuel motor.

    Nothing wrong with points, I never said there was. But if the OP has a Dyna S, then points won't 'solve his problem " as you averred. I would agree with rockman, points would be a step backwards. You are of course free to disagree, we each have our own approach to these things.

    Jim

    P.S. Oh, and no rev limiter on the Pro Drag motor. And ours would run 5800 or so rpm, which is a lot for those old tractors (and idled at 2800 rpm).

  3. #23
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    I think you hit it on the head, it is not points per se, but the quality of the condenser that will bite you in the ass. Also you really do need to occasionally lube the points cam or they will eat the rubbing block and that results in a lot of adjustments.

    I've cracked more than one old cars distributor open to find some really old points in there that needed nothing more than a file to get the right.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    I think you hit it on the head, it is not points per se, but the quality of the condenser that will bite you in the ass. Also you really do need to occasionally lube the points cam or they will eat the rubbing block and that results in a lot of adjustments.

    I've cracked more than one old cars distributor open to find some really old points in there that needed nothing more than a file to get the right.
    On the generator motors I try to save the old points if possible because there is little of quality out there for a replacement.

    Jim

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    You are of course free to disagree, we each have our own approach to these things.

    Jim

    My point exactly...................

  6. #26
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    Modern ignitions are so fucking cool.

    You can tune mine on a laptop. (If you can ever run down the hard to find interface cable) You can put a VOES on it and suck timing out when you crack it or lug it. Solid State. No adjustments, lubing little blocks or any of that crap. Timing is a breeze.

    But, I have to say that.. If it ever acts up? (Especially short of just dying outright) There's no good way to diagnose it beyond just buying another one and replacing it to see if that's the problem. If you're beside the road? You better have a $200 dollar module in your saddlebag, or you're fucked.

    Electronic ignition is great. Computerized ignition is absolute tops! As long as they work.

  7. #27
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    Also keep in mind that a set of points out of a chevy 6 banger from the 50s and 60s fit. That means pretty much any NAPA in any town will have them in stock.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    But if the OP has a Dyna S, then points won't 'solve his problem " as you averred.
    Jim I was thinking about the above what you said........ Sure points would solve his problem if his dyna isn't working correctly. I bet I could fix it with a points set up........ When I give advice, I try to give the easiest path to me but there are always other avenues...... Neither path is wrong as long as it fixes his bike................
    Just saying..............

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    {I say points will solve your problems.................... I doubt it's your valve adjustment........ And fix your oil leak..........

    Also you really need to get that almost kink out of your fuel line............. That will be a problem in the future...............}
    Iím going to mess with it all today and if Iím still having a hard time with it I probably will end up switching back to points. Thanks for the suggestion, a lot of my buddies here in Oregon have also said theyíll only do points.

    It looks like a kink in a picture, itís just a weird angle.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by firstripholdmybeer View Post
    I’m going to mess with it all today and if I’m still having a hard time with it I probably will end up switching back to points. Thanks for the suggestion, a lot of my buddies here in Oregon have also said they’ll only do points.

    It looks like a kink in a picture, it’s just a weird angle.
    I truly hope you can figure it out without having to spend any money...... I'm glad it's not a kink/tight loop in the fuel line..........

    Best of luck...........

  11. #31
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    If you do put a set of points in there be sure to get the seperate points and condenser sets, the combined ones seem to fail a lot on bikes, the damn condensers are crap on those.

    Also before you go to far if you have auto advance on this bike make sure it is not sticking, I've had that issue before.

    Finally I had real issues when I first got my current panhead and it was due to excessive end play at the gear. I re-shimmed it to the proper clearance and it made the world of difference. As a pure brute method try to grab the shaft and pull it up and down while twisting slightly, if it moves more then spec you know you have an issue.

    One of the gurus will need to chime in on the correct end play, it was not much.

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    If you do put a set of points in there be sure to get the seperate points and condenser sets, the combined ones seem to fail a lot on bikes, the damn condensers are crap on those.

    Also before you go to far if you have auto advance on this bike make sure it is not sticking, I've had that issue before.

    Finally I had real issues when I first got my current panhead and it was due to excessive end play at the gear. I re-shimmed it to the proper clearance and it made the world of difference. As a pure brute method try to grab the shaft and pull it up and down while twisting slightly, if it moves more then spec you know you have an issue.

    One of the gurus will need to chime in on the correct end play, it was not much.
    He has a cone motor, so that should not be an issue.

    You are dead right about the timers. I think the end float spec is something less than ten thou, and a sloppy one will play havoc with the timing, as well as excessive float on the gear that drives the timer.

    Jim

  13. #33
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    My bad, lol

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    My bad, lol
    Still great info, I’ll keep that in mind when getting my pan running once it’s finished.

    …Got her back up and running. I readjusted the pushrods, front exhaust was pretty tight. Also the suspected pushrod leaking oil has a bit of warping on the bottom of the cover, so could be my issue there.

    Re timed ignition. Could only see spark going clockwise moving the plate (weird I know). Got her running then just adjusted the plate until it idled nice. I think the plate was a little too far advanced (?) before which was causing kick back almost every other time I went to find compression. Very frustrating issue and I’m glad I figured it out. Thanks for the help everyone

  15. #35

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    I started with Panhead points and 45 years later after having tried Crane, CompuFire, FireBall and others I simply cannot recall , The only Electronic Ign that has Not failed me in the AZ summer heat is the Dyna S.
    Points are great for Kicking - not so great for Push-button only -- simply because of the hassle of rotating the motor/points cam slowly and precisely for accurate setting. With a Kicker arm it is a cinch. Sooo, I now use Dyna S exclusively on all my Choppers from 80" to 127". The weight mechanism is easy and dependable with points Or Dyna S.
    I'll tell you how to Time in real time without oil in your face from the timing hole and more accurate that Static timing, I've been sharing this since my days on AIM forum in 2005 up. Next up.

  16. #36

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    If running a Primary belt, you're sitting in Tall cotton -- If using a Chain Primary drain the primary case and remove Any outer cas because you need to get your fingers in that tight area.

    Pull out the timing plug, pull out the plugs for easy motor turning and slip a socket on the motor nut.
    Slow turn the motor forward to expose the Full Advance Timing mark (on compression stroke if Single-Fire) in the center of the hole for 35* Full Advance. If Points Or Dual-Fire Dyna S either stroke will do.
    Now at Eye Level (very important) looking directly at the 4 'clock position on the Inner Primary -- Permanently inscribe/file
    or whatever a mark on the Alternator Rotor -- Now with Felt tip pen Or metal scribe or Whatever place a mark
    DIRECTLY across from the Rotor Mark onto the Inner Primary. - They must be Directly across from each other for accurate timing.
    Now rotate the motor forward to expose the TDC mark, you will see the FAM you placed on the Rotor up at about the 1 0'clock position now.
    Just for future reference, mark the Inner Primary directly opposite that F A M on the rotor. I think it a good idea to have that reference mark.

    This can be done with Belt or Chain Primary drive BUT be certain to drain fluid if Chain otherwise the splashing fluid will impede your view of the timing light and Marks.

    Now replace the timing hole plug. You should Never need to remove it again Except to simply Verify that everything is still copacetic.
    Rotate the Points plate OR Dyna S plate to approx. the 12:30 position << the Top Modual on the Dyna S.
    Now you may start motor and with a Timing Light simply line up the Full Advance Mark on thsponding mark on inner Primary.
    Remember, the front of the hole is about 32* Full Advance and I advise Not to time earlier than the OEM 35*.

    There will easily be enough fluid on the Chain and Sprockets to NOT cause any harm while running motor to do this.
    Replace outer case and fluid for Chain or whatever you are running.

    You have now replicated the old-style of timing a car motor that has Marks on the Harmonic Balancer - no Hassle no oil in face.

    The first pic shows correct "line-up" of Full advance.
    The second pic shows "line-up" of TDC.
    Third pic shows a "retarded" setting.
    Forth pic shows waay too much Advance.

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  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman96 View Post
    ... The Dyna is the epitome of simple and reliable. Points start breaking down from the first time you start the engine, the Dyna doesn't change. Can they go bad? Sure, anything can, but in 30 years I can't recall ever seeing it happen first hand. How many have you seen go bad first hand? ...
    I have.
    I installed a Dyna S on an Evo I overhauled. Got it timed, (with oil in my face, thanks frisco1rigid for the good tip), ran it many a 15 minute period, took it to the road for 50 miles, got back and gave it a little rev, and lost the rear cylinder ignition fire. Dyna S single fire ignition was new and went kaput. I then installed an Ultima programmable single fire ignition, and all was good.
    Just saying I did have one go bad in front of me, I've had others and they worked fine.

  18. #38
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    if your running a belt drive with an open primary,
    a neat thing you could do, is to get a degree wheel made in sticker form, (any sticker shop will do it for ya for a few bucks)
    & stick it on the end of the pully, then no problems timing without getting oil everywhere
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails zzzz5.jpg  

  19. #39

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    Bravo Tzienlee
    A very cool solution.

    Here is another tool that I forgot to mention. I saw these for sale years after I developed my way and even used one but they can get beat up after time and miles however, I don't know what beats them up. Also, these can be used easy with Chain/fluid primary as well.
    It is good to learn of options so a guy can choose what twists his wick.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by frisco1rigid View Post
    Bravo Tzienlee
    A very cool solution.

    Here is another tool that I forgot to mention. I saw these for sale years after I developed my way and even used one but they can get beat up after time and miles however, I don't know what beats them up. Also, these can be used easy with Chain/fluid primary as well.
    It is good to learn of options so a guy can choose what twists his wick.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Awesome responses man, itís funny I actually had a aftermarket inner primary I got used and had the same markings on it. I always wondered what the help they were haha. A wealth of knowledge. Thanks to everyone for help

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