Narrower mini apes?!

[Duffro]

Hey all, I’m putting together a swing arm evo sportster for my lady and we bought a set of 9” mini apes from lowbrow and they are way wider than we’d like. I was hoping for something narrow with more pull back. These are about 28” from end to end and the flat spot where it goes through the triple clamp is 9.5”. We are running different controls so don’t need dimpled. Thanks

[Toms99tj]

Check out zombie performance. They have a big selection and can do custom work.

[TomK]

What about these from Lowbrow:

https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/collections/motorcycle-handlebars/products/fork-co-ltd-sixties-narrow-handlears-stainless-steel

They look really narrow at the base with decent pullback.

[Hubbard]

Hey all, I’m putting together a swing arm evo sportster for my lady and we bought a set of 9” mini apes from lowbrow and they are way wider than we’d like. I was hoping for something narrow with more pull back. These are about 28” from end to end and the flat spot where it goes through the triple clamp is 9.5”. We are running different controls so don’t need dimpled. Thanks

cut em in half, take out what you don't want and reweld 'em

[pan620]

cut em in half, take out what you don't want and reweld 'em

Hopefully with a slug in the middle to weld to for strength.

[TomK]

If they’re stainless steel. The cost and wait time for chroming is crazy, at least around me. I paid $500 to get a sissy bar chromed recently to have it done in less than a month. Other shops quoted similar prices with 6 month back logs. It may be cheaper to buy used pipe bending equipment and make your own out of stainless and polish it.

[Down]

Zombie Performance makes great bars.
Also shop around on chopshit.com Rick and his girl who run the site are awesome people and are helping these small companies get more sales.

[MOTher]

Two ways to narrow your bars in the "middle". One is of course to cut a section out of the center and weld them back together. Use a slug of course, a hollow one if you're running wiring or an internal throttle, clutch, or manual advance through the bars. If you measure carefully, you can get it so the weld is right in the middle of a riser and can't be seen, saving you the cost of re-chroming.

Another method is to use the one piece clamp used on '52-'73 Sportsters, and '60-'73 FLH. The below pic is not the best, but what was used here was that clamp, the stainless cover from a Sportster, and a set of HD bars that was knurled for one of the springer models. The spacing between risers is wider than the 3½" that's standard on most everything else. The area between the knurls was removed and the bars clamped. No welding. In this case the clamp is backwards from it's normal position. 'cause the bolt spacing lined up with the bolt spacing on the '96-03 Sportster Custom Speedo cup, which is turned upside down here. If your bars aren't knurled and you want them to be, tape off the part you don't want knurled and have at it with a sharp center punch and a lot of patience.

[flatman]

dont forget you can also trim alittle off of each end also.

[Hubbard]

do what mother said and spend the 200 on something else.

[TomK]

Damn this forum! Those zombie performance bars look awesome! I was waffling between mini apes and t-bars and went with the t’s because I couldn’t find nice riserless narrow mini apes, and now I see they have them. Dammit!