rear disc brake for ridged frame questions

[bawdyparts]

I chopped my 77 shovelhead with a pan head replica rear end and I’m trying to figure out how to configure the rear braking system. My problem is, with the caliper pointing down in the way that it is, I can’t bleed it. Should I continue to try and make this set-up work, or is there an easier option?

P.s. The rotors are 10”, the caliper is a shovelhead banana caliper, and if you have any more questions I’d be happy to clarify anything.

Thank you for any help you’re able to give!

[Hubbard]

I think you'll find the way you have it now in a hard brake application the caliper will try to pull the wheel away from the chain adjusters.Put the caliper on top and the anchor on bottom will reverse the action

[bawdyparts]

I never thought of that and it makes perfect sense! I dropped it down to the bottom because it won’t fit behind the fender strut if the struts are straight. I’d like to figure out a way to do it without fucking with the strut if I can, but if it comes down to it, so be it.

[MOTher]

If you modify the bracket, you can put the caliper in the 9:00 position, behind the axle casting, anchoring on the bottom. There was an aftermarket bracket available that accomplished this some time back, but one might be hard to find. Doing this will keep the caliper away from the fender strut, away from the exhaust pipe (looks pretty close the way you have it now) and will allow you to bleed it if you bleed it backwards. (connect a piece of tubing to a pump can or large syringe, and push brake fluid into the bleeder and out the feed line 'til there are no bubbles coming up in the m/c.)

[confab]

You can also pull the caliper, place a shim of some sort (plywood, whatever) between the pads and bleed it conventionally.. Then just bolt it back in place.

It will work fine.

[Tater66]

Confab has a winner !. I use a piece of 1/4" steel 2"X4" so it mimics the rotor. Wood is squishy and "feels" like a bubble to me.

[bawdyparts]

This is why I love this forum! Such awesome ideas! I think I might combine the two ideas. Keep it on the bottom, but move the anchor point to the bottom so I’m not pulling the axle back.

[70fatster]

My bike has a nut on the end of the axle, I tighten it down real good and the axle can't move.

[JBinNC]

My bike has a nut on the end of the axle, I tighten it down real good and the axle can't move.

High torque motors in a good hookin' chassis will move an axle pronto. There are fixes for this.

Jim

[confab]

I think I might combine the two ideas. Keep it on the bottom, but move the anchor point to the bottom so I’m not pulling the axle back.

Yeah, you can fab an anchor tab anywhere you want.. Maybe mill a slot into the caliper halfs and get on one of the bolts to hold it?

But the way it works in its original application is, the stay length is such that the caliper simply pivots back and forth as you adjust the chain.

So, on one extreme of adjustment it would sit slightly forward, and the other it would sit back on the rotor.

You can do anything you want with the stay. I've seen some rod end type arrangements (Be sure to use good ones) for an adjustable stay so the caliper can always remain in the same spot, etc..

[70fatster]

High torque motors in a good hookin' chassis will move an axle pronto. There are fixes for this.

Jim

I believe you Jim, but my bike doesn't fit that description!

[JBinNC]

I believe you Jim, but my bike doesn't fit that description!

What I figgered.

Mine neither.

Jim

[frisco1rigid]

Great advice.
My EVO Rigid with a Banana and 11.5" rotor set-up.
You can accomplish anything with a wee bit of Imagination and ability, a wee bend here a small weld there, etc etc.
This was No hassle at all it simply fit right up with some common sense.



Hope you can see the Bracket Hold/adjuster set-up.

[Supertouch]

I’ve been having them set up like this. 1/4 plate on the frame and late model Harley caliper. No heim
Joints, anchors etc and there 4 piston