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Thread: This was fun!

  1. #41
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    Wow, check out that PV graveyard!

    Does the PV maiden live there?

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    Last edited by Hoghead; 09-05-2020 at 3:15 PM.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoghead View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pv.jpg 
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    Wow, check out that PV graveyard!

    Does the PV maiden live there?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	download (3).jpeg 
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ID:	106150
    If she did she would have gotten the horny biker viking treatment, rest assured

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoghead View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow, check out that PV graveyard!

    Does the PV maiden live there?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	download (3).jpeg 
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Size:	10.5 KB 
ID:	106150
    Three abandoned classic car has been found by a lady without a bra and a photographer. LOL

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcknzAlex View Post
    Three abandoned classic car has been found by a lady without a bra and a photographer. LOL
    This. Is. Swedeeeeen!😅

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainBohus View Post
    This. Is. Swedeeeeen!��
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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainBohus View Post
    Was chasing some new vibrations and found a broken bottom subframe bolt that was just spotwelded to the frame drilled the sucker out and threaded a new 7/16 UNF at work. Then before a 300 mile weekend run i discovered the pullrod for the primary chain tensioner had snapped. A quick weld and off we went just pissed a little through the torn cover gasket, otherwise it was fine.Attachment 106112Attachment 106113
    Attachment 106115
    A lot of people replace the factory bolts for the subframes, they need to be US Grade 8 or better, Not sure what that translates to in land of Sweden, But its common issue. Lot of stress there. a Cut thread is not likely to be up to that strength,, My advice is find a high quality bolt with known rating for those 4 bolts (2 ea side) and the top bolt for the rear loop.
    Id have to double check a 500 frame, but believe its the same as the 650s as one bolt goes thru each side and a nut & washer secures it and the other threads into the frame so must have correct threads & pitch. Thats usually where most chopper guys go wrong, jamming whatever into there.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougtheinternetannoyance123 View Post
    A lot of people replace the factory bolts for the subframes, they need to be US Grade 8 or better, Not sure what that translates to in land of Sweden, But its common issue. Lot of stress there. a Cut thread is not likely to be up to that strength,, My advice is find a high quality bolt with known rating for those 4 bolts (2 ea side) and the top bolt for the rear loop.
    Id have to double check a 500 frame, but believe its the same as the 650s as one bolt goes thru each side and a nut & washer secures it and the other threads into the frame so must have correct threads & pitch. Thats usually where most chopper guys go wrong, jamming whatever into there.
    Nope, youre wrong there, this bolt goes into a blind hole, and it had broke in the solid part before the threads started, so no need for rolled threads.
    Grade 8 is the next weakest bolt grade in europe, i got a high tensile bolt from work that is way stronger than what came from the factory so not really worried.
    Whats weird is that the thread was UNF, on a 67 it should be CEI.
    Last edited by CaptainBohus; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:59 PM.

  8. #48
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    What's a "subframe" on a Triumph? These parts are not familiar to me.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanonevol View Post
    What's a "subframe" on a Triumph? These parts are not familiar to me.
    Subframe is what many people refer to as the rear section of the frame. Its because the front half is usually called the "Main frame" so whatever is bolted on reverts to "Sub", when in fact it should be rear loop or rear section. Either a swing arm type or a bolt on hard tail. Its just semantics. Another tangent is for example on early type Norton Featherbed frames the frame was one big piece with artfully bent dual tubes in a circle and then welded together. A "Subframe" was bolted on in the rear to support the rear fender and back of the seat.

    I didnt bother to reply to the other poster as he has the issue sorted out, But he clearly didnt understand anything I wrote. Not my circus, Not my Monkeys.(He DOES seem to understand CEI and UNF so, maybe its just a language barrier)
    Last edited by Dougtheinternetannoyance123; 3 Weeks Ago at 12:19 PM.

  10. #50
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    Gotcha. I think one must be careful trying to out think the engineers that built the bike. Use the specified hardware.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanonevol View Post
    Gotcha. I think one must be careful trying to out think the engineers that built the bike. Use the specified hardware.
    There is many ways to improve these bikes, they were built to a price. So, besides Lucas parts, and some other parts that were functional but not ideal, there is vast room for improvement in many areas. Just the same as Harleys. Very few people leave a HD stock.

    However the only reason I responded was a cautionary tale as its critical to have high quality/spec hardware in certain spots. The frame is one of them. I see a LOT of bikes with subpar bolts and hardware including that location. While the thru hole that uses a nut and washer on the backside is easier, I see broken bolts in the blind hole into the frames on several bikes because the threads were wrong and never fully tightened (A cross threaded bolt is always tight) or they used a low grade bolt. It caught my eye when he said he "Cut" threads,, But he says he has it handled.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougtheinternetannoyance123 View Post
    Subframe is what many people refer to as the rear section of the frame. Its because the front half is usually called the "Main frame" so whatever is bolted on reverts to "Sub", when in fact it should be rear loop or rear section. Either a swing arm type or a bolt on hard tail. Its just semantics. Another tangent is for example on early type Norton Featherbed frames the frame was one big piece with artfully bent dual tubes in a circle and then welded together. A "Subframe" was bolted on in the rear to support the rear fender and back of the seat.

    I didnt bother to reply to the other poster as he has the issue sorted out, But he clearly didnt understand anything I wrote. Not my circus, Not my Monkeys.(He DOES seem to understand CEI and UNF so, maybe its just a language barrier)
    Im swedish so i may not get everything
    I think i understood most of it but i dont think rolled threads would have helped anything. The old bolt was the correct thread as well so not mashed in, it probably just bottomed out in the blind hole and snapped when someone tried to force it to clamp to the frame(old lowered and stretched santee thing btw) then they couldnt be bothered to fix it and spot welded the thing poorly in place. The front bolt is a through bolt with washer and nut, thats correct. And im glad you gave me the idea to check over the fasteners. Scraped the paint off and the top bolt was a stainless metric A2-70. Real crap for load bearing frame fasteners. Gonna replace it with another high tensile steel bolt from work. Only upside to working in a refinery, free and abundant sae screws. Its held up well for the thirty odd years its been sitting there anyway.

  13. #53
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    For the edification of the readers on both sides of the pond,

    A UNified Grade 8 (six marks on the head) is roughly equivalent to a 12.9 metric bolt. Grade 5 (three marks) is the most common in general use and equivalent to 8.7 (I think it is) in metric bolts. Grade 2 (no marks) are low grade, found in furniture, toys, etc.

    Jim

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