Questions about 4 speed trans.

[drivermark]

As I'm sure some have figured out I am in the middle of fixing up the 4 speed in my '85 Softail.
Reading thru the FSM about installing bearings in the counter shaft gear the manual indicated to use HD tool #34733 to set the depth of the bearing. The question is does anyone have the dimensions for said tool? I was going to measure the depth that the old bearings were installed and use that dimension to build an installation tool. The thing is the pic of the tool in the FSM looks like it would seat the bearing significantly deeper on one side than the other, and there is only about a .010 difference between the bearings that are in the counter shaft gear right now.
Is the depth that the bearings are seated a crucial issue or what? Watching the video series that jcrubin made on the subject here

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53163

He seemed to just press the bearings in until they bottomed out on the shoulders in the bore inside of the CS gear.
As I've mentioned before this is my first Harley trans. so I want to make sure that I'm doing this the RIGHT way.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you

Mark

[JBinNC]

Just press them in until the outer face just clears the chamfer in the gear. That will leave a little room for oil circulation. It's not critical.

Jim

[drivermark]

Thank you very much Jim.

[drivermark]

Another thing I am curious about, the main drive gear bushing. Another thing I was reading about in the old "Easyriders Tips and Tricks #4" (article starts on pg 63 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4s...mONoMIrtkRcrWA )
The article discusses machining the MDG to accept the bearings that are found in the 5 speed, and the essay by Saddlebagrail about machining the MDG bushing from solid stock to support the drive shaft better.
Anyone try either of these methods? What were your results?

[JBinNC]

Solid bushings are available from Jim's and Eastern. I personally like them. Best results are had by boring them, which helps with the concentricity. Final sizing by hone is best.

Jim

[Dragstews]

That's ^^ all new parts from Andrews Products ...
Both bearings are in that far ...

[drivermark]

That's ^^ all new parts from Andrews Products ...
Both bearings are in that far ...

Thanks, JB and Stews, that clears that up. The mention of a factory tool just had me wondering if the placement of the counter shaft bearings was more critical than it is.

[drivermark]

Finally got to the point that I'm putting it back together and have a question. Is reaming the bushing on the main drive gear an absolute necessary? When fitting it together the gear slipped onto the shaft just perfect (it seems to me) slid on nice and easy but was snug w/no slop. It seems like either reaming or honing would make it too loose. I will add that I ordered both the shaft and drive gear from Andrews at the same time and the gear came with a bushing installed. Do the fit the shaft and bushing at the factory?

[JBinNC]

If you have both a new mainshaft and main drive gear from Andrews, they should fit together fine. As always, good to check. A thou to a thou & a half is decent clearance.

Jim

[Dragstews]

If you did see a need to open up the bushing to the factory spec of .0018-.0032 in.
Think I'd hunt up a hone instead of a reem ...



This is the factory ream sent to H-D dealer's service departments ...



Dang near as old as Mosses ... !!
... (Or perhaps JBinNC .. ) ...

[drivermark]

Thanks again gentlemen.

While I'm at it here's a run down on the specs at assembly.

spec. in manual actual
Mainshaft drive gear end play .010-.035 .015
3rd gear end play .005-.021 .010
2nd gear end play .003-.020 .005
Main Shaft runout .03 max <.001


Shift fork spacing main .100-.110 .105/.105
counter .080-.090 .090/.090


If there is something important that I missed please let me know. I just went down what was listed in the manual.


And for anyone else that may be doing this anytime in the future:

Main Shaft bearings Torrington gb 2610 for the clutch side
NSK 6305z for the kicker side

Counter Shaft bearings Torrington b 1212

Thanks again for the help guys.

[JBinNC]

Countershaft end play, kind of important.

Note that there are 2 or 3 different main drive Torrington bearings, depending on the year of the case. This has to do with the OD of the bearing.

Jim

[drivermark]

Countershaft end play, kind of important.

Note that there are 2 or 3 different main drive Torrington bearings, depending on the year of the case. This has to do with the OD of the bearing.

Jim

Whoops forgot to write that one down tolerance .004-.015 actual .008


And the bearings would be for the later rotary top what would that be? 82-86?

Thanks again Jim

Am I missing anything else that you can think of?
Shifter top is all re-done had to replace the pawl springs, 1 was broke so I just replaced them both and I'm still waiting for the shift shaft cover to show up. replaced kicker shaft and crank gear w/ Sifton parts, kicker clutch gears I got from J&P but it's got electric start so I'm not relying on those I just can't afford Baker gears (not in the budget right now) so they'll do for now. Replaced clutch push rods because they looked all burnt and chewed up on the ends also replaced the shift finger for the same reason.
Any help, advice, constructive criticism is appreciated.
Thanks

Mark

[Dragstews]

How much slop did the shifter cam have in the cover bore ...
The cover has no replaceable bushing, if badly worn (Most with hi-mileage are), you might need to get a new cover ..

[drivermark]

I just checked that and it seems nice and tight, no slop.
Thank you, I never would have thought of that.

Can any one think of anything else I may have missed?