CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 2 of 2 First 12
  1. #21
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Not sure about the controversy - my reasoning was that the case is hard to replace. The circuit breakers for slabsides are not plentiful being as it's a 5 year only part. But they are not so rare that a replacement is not available.

    Tattoo makes a good point; removing the gear is a good first step but if you cant withdraw the circuit breaker far enough to slide the gear off the shaft the point is moot.

    More than one approach here - my thinking is that if the circuit breaker housing is bent the circuit breaker is toast. prioritize the case, trash the breaker.

    Good luck with it.

  2. #22
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KG View Post
    U seam easily triggered!
    Could be, Just to let you know it wasn't you that got me started....

    Now when I know I'm right and what your wanting to do could mess things up worse than they have to be that's what I don't understand..... Now I hope you will at least try and take your time and do it right....

    Be sure and take pics of what you end up doing so others can learn from it.....

    Best of luck......
    Last edited by Tattooo; 07-15-2020 at 12:13 PM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post
    Tattoo makes a good point; removing the gear is a good first step but if you cant withdraw the circuit breaker far enough to slide the gear off the shaft the point is moot.
    Good luck with it.
    You are correct, It's really hard to tell by that pic.... I would like to see a pic with the timer pulled up as far as it will go..... Plus it will be a hell of a lot easier to cut off the base with the shaft out of the way, even if it messed up the timer housing getting the shaft up and out of the way........

    The timer base and shaft is fucked anyways.....

  4. #24
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    12,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post

    More than one approach here - my thinking is that if the circuit breaker housing is bent the circuit breaker is toast. prioritize the case, trash the breaker.
    The thing to do is this ^^ ...

    Looks to me that the timer is way past done anyways ...


  5. #25
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    12,773

    Default

    Perhaps it's time to take a step into the new horizon !!




  6. #26
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Why bother with EI????? That will still bend if stopped....???????

  7. #27
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Looks to me that the timer is way past done anyways ...

    LOL No shit....... LOL

  8. #28
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Tattoo makes a good point; removing the gear is a good first step but if you cant withdraw the circuit breaker far enough to slide the gear off the shaft the point is moot.
    What's to stop you from removing the internal shaft upwards after removing the top of the breaker? I assumed that would be natural prior to drilling the breaker tube to sever it and mentioned that in my post. You can use force generously on the internal shaft since it never touches the case.

    BTW a recip saw or jig saw spews fine chips while a drill but creates larger, easier to retrieve chips.
    Last edited by farmall; 07-15-2020 at 6:10 PM.

  9. #29
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    BTW a recip saw or jig saw spews fine chips while a drill but creates larger, easier to retrieve chips.
    Yep that would be the best way to go unless your planing on taking the bottom end apart.......

  10. #30
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Perhaps it's time to take a step into the new horizon !!



    If that one's built like the stainless version you sold me it's fucking sweet.

  11. #31
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    If that one's built like the stainless version you sold me it's fucking sweet.
    They are beautiful............

  12. #32
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,735

    Default

    When I have to make swarf in a place like that I tape all holes to other chambers then cover the whole inside with rags that I worked full of grease then I pack the area that is going to get the most swarf with more greasy rags..
    Dusty

  13. #33
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    12,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post

    If that one's built like the stainless version you sold me it's fucking sweet.
    Very similar, but this is made from billet Alum.
    S&S also offers it in the later format (65-69)


  14. #34
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    233

    Default

    Posting the results for anyone who has to go through this...

    To prove a point I removed the pin the hold the drive gear to the inner shaft. It was nothing but a waste of time, but I did it so I could say “told you so”!

    The inner shaft had seized 1st causing the gears to grind until it bent out of the way/broke.

    I built a wall around the area with tape and masking paper. It taped to top of the cam chest and extended beyond the front, back and bottom of cam case. I used a reciprocating body saw to sea through the aluminum housing. Went all the way around without cutting the hardened steel inner(drive) shaft. After the outer housing was cut all the way around, it slid right out! I cleaned the small area under the top side of case where I hadn’t masked off and gutted the making paper/tape. Way easier than I figured it would be!

    Moral of the story...don’t ask a bunch of ego driven keyboard jockeys how to help you do something they have never attempted!

    I hope this helps someone as it will be my last contribution to this forum!
    Jog on!

  15. #35
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KG View Post
    I used a reciprocating body saw to sea through the aluminum housing. Went all the way around without cutting the hardened steel inner(drive) shaft. After the outer housing was cut all the way around, it slid right out!

    Lets see....... You say taking the gear and pin off was a waste of time...... But it allowed you to be able to slide the housing off after cutting around the housing to slide it off??????? Which you couldn't have done with the gear on it......... That was my point all along.......

    Keep typing it might sink in............

  16. #36
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KG View Post
    Posting the results for anyone who has to go through this...

    To prove a point I removed the pin the hold the drive gear to the inner shaft. It was nothing but a waste of time, but I did it so I could say “told you so”!

    The inner shaft had seized 1st causing the gears to grind until it bent out of the way/broke.

    I built a wall around the area with tape and masking paper. It taped to top of the cam chest and extended beyond the front, back and bottom of cam case. I used a reciprocating body saw to sea through the aluminum housing. Went all the way around without cutting the hardened steel inner(drive) shaft. After the outer housing was cut all the way around, it slid right out! I cleaned the small area under the top side of case where I hadn’t masked off and gutted the making paper/tape. Way easier than I figured it would be!

    Moral of the story...don’t ask a bunch of ego driven keyboard jockeys how to help you do something they have never attempted!

    I hope this helps someone as it will be my last contribution to this forum!
    Jog on!
    Thanks for the update. Glad that you got it figured out.

    I agree that many times the amount of static wrapped around the useful information on this site can be very frustrating. Straightforward answers without drama are rare..

    I don't spend much time here myself. I offer experience based advice and I don't have much patience for folks competing to be the smartest guy in the room.

    I'd much rather ride my shovelhead than type on this keyboard. A 100:1 ratio of riding time to typing time is good. Since I've not seen a way to post and ride at the same time I prioritize riding - that's what makes me happy. I'm a daily rider but a long ways from a daily internet keyboard mechanic..

    Good luck on the shovelhead..

    To ride is the thing.

    69

  17. #37
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    341

    Default

    This happened to me on my panhead with a new JK mag.

    There wasn't oil clearance and it seized and did exactly the same. I also did as you mentioned to get it out. Real pain in the ass. Glad you got it out dude.

    I hope there wasn't any damage in the cam chest. I got really lucky on the pan and was just the gear on my mag.

    Hope the bikes back on the road in no time.

  18. #38
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post
    I'm a daily rider but a long ways from a daily internet keyboard mechanic..
    69

    Do what your best at........ I've done my YEARS and YEARS of riding everyday............

    Even I don't post like I use to, Way to busy these days..............

    Enjoy the ride...........
    Last edited by Tattooo; 4 Weeks Ago at 9:22 AM.

  19. #39
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    It might be worth applying high temp anti-seize like the nickel-bearing stuff (high temp so it doesn't run) at the top of the shaft where moisture intrusion over many years can cause corrosion and seizure. Dry threads are Satan's playground and so are dry joints.

  20. #40
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 854115
    It might be worth applying high temp anti-seize like the nickel-bearing stuff (high temp so it doesn't run) at the top of the shaft where moisture intrusion over many years can cause corrosion and seizure. Dry threads are Satan's playground and so are dry joints.

    Yes sir that is great advice........ Most of the time the timer will squeak when your kicking it to life when the timer is dry before it locks up....... But most people will ignore the sound rather than looking for it...........

Share This



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in