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  1. #1

    Default Hardtail welding

    Hello all,

    Iím getting ready to start a hardtail conversion on my 1979 xs650. Iím a Ironworker/welder by trade, and proficient in welding. I was thinking of TIG welding the hardtail on but I only have access to a scratch start setup, using a Hobart stick mate 240v. I was wondering if anyone else had used a scratch start to weld a hardtail on. Or maybe there is a reason why I might not want to use that setup. Any input or advice would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    found this;

    Thread: If you can't weld - don't build a frame.

    "stick welding is ok as well, using correct rod. a DC 7018 rod, with a DC welder, no problems. that's what I use on a lot, or I let the work chose what rod I need to use...

    "...go grab some 6011, 6013 & 7018AC ac rods, and don't hesitate to ask your local welding supply guy questions, and play, I prefer the 6010 to the 6011, but the 6010 is a DC only, and the 7018AC rod will be a lot harder to run than a DC rod on a dc machine, & if you get into it, & play with rods, & use like hardsurfacing rods, like for retiping auger bits, and others that are hard to run you will understand why I want a pre WWII machine with higher power factor the 6010 / 6011 is a deeper penetrating rod, will flash faster, & will work on rusty metal, which is something you get into if working on old farm equipment, the 6013 is for most metal fab projects, & the 7018 for higher strength, but the 7018 needs to be used up after opening, I take out aprox what I need, & reseal box & use up what I take out., but this is what you should use on motorcycle frames, it has more "flex" without cracking. you will have to use a 7018AC

    if you can afford to get a DC stick welder, you wont believe how much better they weld than the AC side. I picked mine up used. & tried it out first. I also looked at another machine & I assume someone tried to change the settings while welding, as it wouldn't weld, & barely weld on AC, guy tried to tell me that I didn't know what I was doing, he was used to his junk welder & layed a soso bead, but couldnt do a whole rod, lol, it was a miller thunderbolt, with the hand crank top, so be warned there are broken machines out there, and inexperienced welders may get took, & never buy a welder if you cant try it out!

    Later,
    Randy "

    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...t=30990&page=2

  3. #3

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    I appreciate the post/advice.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    found this;

    Thread: If you can't weld - don't build a frame.

    "stick welding is ok as well, using correct rod. a DC 7018 rod, with a DC welder, no problems. that's what I use on a lot, or I let the work chose what rod I need to use...

    "...go grab some 6011, 6013 & 7018AC ac rods, and don't hesitate to ask your local welding supply guy questions, and play, I prefer the 6010 to the 6011, but the 6010 is a DC only, and the 7018AC rod will be a lot harder to run than a DC rod on a dc machine, & if you get into it, & play with rods, & use like hardsurfacing rods, like for retiping auger bits, and others that are hard to run you will understand why I want a pre WWII machine with higher power factor the 6010 / 6011 is a deeper penetrating rod, will flash faster, & will work on rusty metal, which is something you get into if working on old farm equipment, the 6013 is for most metal fab projects, & the 7018 for higher strength, but the 7018 needs to be used up after opening, I take out aprox what I need, & reseal box & use up what I take out., but this is what you should use on motorcycle frames, it has more "flex" without cracking. you will have to use a 7018AC

    if you can afford to get a DC stick welder, you wont believe how much better they weld than the AC side. I picked mine up used. & tried it out first. I also looked at another machine & I assume someone tried to change the settings while welding, as it wouldn't weld, & barely weld on AC, guy tried to tell me that I didn't know what I was doing, he was used to his junk welder & layed a soso bead, but couldnt do a whole rod, lol, it was a miller thunderbolt, with the hand crank top, so be warned there are broken machines out there, and inexperienced welders may get took, & never buy a welder if you cant try it out!

    Later,
    Randy "

    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...t=30990&page=2
    Im surprised anyone even uses ac stick welders this side of the 1970's. They havent been manufactured here for 50 years. A mid priced 220v stick welder is 100% of the time an inverter type welder these days. Get one with a proper hot start circuit or curse your ruined electrodes.
    No reason why you couldnt use a scratch start Tig welder, if youre really paranoid over tungsten contamination you simply 'scratch start' beside the welding area. Although the accepted term is Lift-arc. The amount of tungsten-torium alloy deposited is negligible in this context.

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