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  1. #21

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
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    1,837

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    Quote Originally Posted by Down View Post
    This story ends here, for now at least. The frame is tweaked and I really don't have a clue how to straighten it out without a jig. I found this out while I was trying to make steering stops. Turn to the left and it hits the stop, center the stop and swing the front the other way. Hits almost 1/2" later. What the hell. I start measuring point to point on both sides, multiple points and it's always way off.. The frame is a corkscrew. The motor is fucked. Guess I just paid money for a literal pile of garbage?
    Sounds like a pretty normal ironhead project. They can be money pits but they are all quite old at this point, and were never meant to last this long.

    Stock springs with the PB+ cams are fine, but where are you going to find stock springs at this late date? (Beware of any of the aftermarket "stock" spring sets.) Kibblewhite/Precision Machining offers a good set of ironhead springs, part # 20-2215.

    Jim

  2. #22

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    I'm ordering those springs, thanks JB.

    I posted in a local group about the frame and one eager guy wanted to try to straighten it out, for a case of beer. He buys totaled bikes with twisted frames and gets them titled and sells them off, so I'm hopeful here.

    I got the frame sandblasted yesterday, going to drop it off to the frame guy today. He said it would be ready next week, he's got no other projects going now.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    Sometimes you get a bunch of good news! Got the frame home today, the guy was able to straighten it out a lot. I told him it doesn't need to be perfect, so he didn't go all crazy with cutting it up.

    I was on my way to buy primer to paint the frame when I got a phone call saying my cylinders are done and he has Wiseco forged pistons to go with them. Damn, here I thought I'd really get them back in October.
    The guy was just laughing about it raining for 2 weeks straight, so he had to do some machining to pass the time.

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    Assembled a roller with the new bars and new 1.6 gal tank. Waiting for ignition and rear axle to be delivered.



    Need to start thinking about a rear brake setup. Could I run a Motoiron springer brake system on the back? The axle I'm getting is the same as the springer axle. It would bolt right on, but is there a reason why people don't do this? At least I've never seen it done.

  5. #25

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,837

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    Brake calipers are pretty universal and don't know which end of the bike they are on.

    Knock yourself out.

    Jim

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Brake calipers are pretty universal and don't know which end of the bike they are on.

    Knock yourself out.

    Jim
    Thanks for confirming, I'll start looking.

    Got my ignition system and rear axle today! All new bolts and gaskets for the motor! Finally getting the big stuff out of the way and can start thinking about the small stuff like wiring, footpegs and tail light.

  7. #27

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    New woes, not really sure what's up. Let me try to explain.
    I assembled the motor. Everything went together pain free and I took my time and made sure to triple check everything.
    The weird thing is I can't turn the motor over with transmission in gear. I can crank the kickstarter and turn the motor in neutral. Plugs are off, so it turns just as easy as it should.
    Can not for the life of me get it to turn by turning the rear wheel. Not in any gear. I won't even attempt to turn it with the electric starter. Something tells me this professionally rebuilt gearbox is fucked. I have the receipt for it, but I can't say if it's this bike that has been rebuilt..

    Seems like a transmission problem, no?

  8. #28

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,837

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    Check the end play of both transmission shafts by the manual before you take the transmission out. That REQUIRES a dial indicator and stand for it. You can't guess about this on an XL 4-speed.

    Jim

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Check the end play of both transmission shafts by the manual before you take the transmission out. That REQUIRES a dial indicator and stand for it. You can't guess about this on an XL 4-speed.

    Jim
    Oh, damn. Thanks for telling me that before I just yank it out. I think I owe you a beer, Jim, you've helped so much.

  10. #30

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    Okay, figured it out. I'm not even that amazed, to be honest. Guys said they had the bike running and riding before they took the motor out. I do doubt that, because this was the culprit. These 2 bolts are way too long and poke into the transmission. Stupid thing, but this had me scratching my head all night.


    At work I had time to think and the only things I could think of were these 2 bolts, or the starter interfering. I ruled the starter out, because I made sure it fits nicely when I installed it.

  11. #31

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    205

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    Been figuring out a rear brake setup. Sits quite nicely down there and tucks in good enough.
    Wanted an MC with a remote reservoir to keep it sort of incognito. No idea if this one from a Kawasaki will work with a MotoIron caliper, but it was 10 bucks shipped so no biggie if it doesn't work.

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