Shift into gear but no go

[Toms99tj]

I broke down on the way home today. I just want to get some ideas of what to look for. The bike sounds like in goes into gear but will not move. I can shift through all the gears with it running but no movement. When i recover from pushing im going to pull the cover. What should i look for right away? Its a 95 sportster 1200

[flatman]

did it throw the rear chain?

[Toms99tj]

Belt is still good. Pulled the inspection cover and clutch cover and smells of burnt shit. So i pulled the cover and this is how it looks. I have no clue what to look for. The oil didnt look like it had any metal in it. Also when i would pull the clutch in and put into gear i was able to let the clutch out and it was like it was in neutral it didnt die or jump just stayed running

[JBinNC]

Look for the splines stripped in the transmission pulley. Not a common problem, but it happens enough to be notable. Shaft will turn but the pulley won't.

Jim

[Toms99tj]

Is the transmission pulley the front belt pulley? Sorry i have never messed with a bike like this before. Im use to four wheelers.

[JBinNC]

Is the transmission pulley the front belt pulley? Sorry i have never messed with a bike like this before. Im use to four wheelers.

Yes.

Jim

[Toms99tj]

Ok so i just went out and pulled that cover and looks like its good. I did notice before when i put it in gear i was still able to spin the back wheel with some resistance and i tried that now and it wont spin.

[Dragstews]

Kinda hard to see the splines with the nut retainer on the pulley ..
You might want to get a better look at them with a bit more digging ..

[farmall]

Ok so i just went out and pulled that cover and looks like its good. I did notice before when i put it in gear i was still able to spin the back wheel with some resistance and i tried that now and it wont spin.

It'll be clutch or pulley splines. Remove pulley and inspect and remove clutch plates (since they smelled fried) and inspect. Even if the clutch is the problem doing a status check on the splines is free and makes unpleasant surprises less likely.

It's easy to improvise a clutch spring compressor. I've used a piece of PVC and a lawnmower blade (doesn't damage the blade).

http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:tools115#speed_1991-later_tools

Brass door hinge trick to lock the primary if needed: https://i.imgur.com/1KNaKtu.jpg

You can greatly improve your pulley nut socket by grinding off the chamfer inside the end so it fully engages. Those chamfers exist to center the broach which cuts the internal flats during production and are of zero benefit to mechanics. Use a 6-point socket for best results.

Download or buy the factory service manual and factory parts catalog. Get both, no substitutions.

The xlforum is THE online Sportster resource and covers pretty much everything. Post pics of what you find to help the next biker.

[Toms99tj]

When I get home I will try to get the nut off the front pulley and inspect more. I have a manual but not a parts one.

[JBinNC]

When I get home I will try to get the nut off the front pulley and inspect more. I have a manual but not a parts one.

It's a left hand thread. (No reason for it in that place, except that the big twin tooling is/ was used in the production of the main drive gear.)

Jim

[Toms99tj]

So if I have to pull the belt would it be worth doing a chain conversion or is it better to stay with the belt? I am going to order a clutch because I am sure its do to be changed. According the speedometer that came on the bike which wasnt original it read 32000 when I removed it. Thank you all for the help so far

[JBinNC]

I like chains because I am both old fashioned and have racing experience.

But nothing wrong with the modern drive belt, and simply replacing the transmission pulley would be both easy and cheap.

Jim

[farmall]

Belts are tough and Sportsters remove any objection to the maintenance labor (their right side drive is newer than the absurd big twin legacy design which should have been abandoned with the first Evos). They outlive chains by a nice margin in most cases.

Find out what you're dealing with before buying any final drive parts though (saves shipping to consolidate orders) and consider if you want to change gearing (which chains permit). If ordering a clutch it's smart to order a complete engine gasket and seal set to work off vs buying stuff one at a time, then replace what you use. The primary cover being removed is the perfect time to replace your starter contacts (pull the solenoid cover and if they're not perfect swap 'em as the kit's only about 20 bucks but it's usually a starter removal to do the job and the two socket head starter bolts are under the primary cover).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 has all the seals etc. I've used several of that brand. There's nothing special about Denso contacts. I also install a pushbutton solenoid end cover (any of them) which bypasses all the starter control circuitry as a backup. The cheap ones work fine and are about 20 bucks.

With the pulley removed take a good look at the splines it rides on because if they're loose (check with the new pulley unless they're obviously fucked or post a clear photo) they'll fail and eat the pulley too.

[Toms99tj]

My belt looks to be in good shape so really no need to replace that. So if the pulley is shot where do you suggest getting one from and what brand? I plan on getting the gasket kit and I was thinking of maybe changing the starter while I have the cover off. I will also order the kit you linked to amazon. Now I need to track down the socket for the pulley nut.