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  1. #161
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    Good to know about the mag case mismatch. That stuff is why I enjoy your threads. Nice blend job!

    V-Twin must have had a clueless salesdroid fielding questions since any machine shop can compare to a known good gear first by mic'ing diameter but also by (more complex) checking pitch and profile. They just don't care so I do not want their gears in anything I own because if they fuck up the tooth profile that can make a lot of chips in a hurry or gradually make small chips slowly.

    Eastern Motorcycle Parts in SC makes https://www.denniskirk.com/eastern-m...rd/1403599.sku and if 32531-36 is not the correct PN they may make the correct one.

    Gears are complex to machine (especially worm gears) and doing that right is more demanding than simple castings like heads which are basic milling, drilling, reaming and tapping. I can live with their repop heads but please no V-Twin gears in my engine as your ordeal tells me they have no fucking serious QC department despite slinging more than enough volume to have proper inspections done or do it on premises. It would suck to have one of their trash gears waste an engine.

    Making their customers their QC is bullshit but many firms do that because their management are greedy fucksticks.

    If the ChiComs making the worm gears can't be arsed to measure them then everything else including heat treat and alloy is questionable too.

    Note to others less familiar: If ya need to check engagement on any gear one way is clean with brake cleaner then hit all the teeth with a blue or red thick Sharpie (thinner and neater than Dykem, most machinists carry Sharpies these days) before running them against each other manually.

    "Weird" is what it is ...
    Indeed but also built like a brick shithouse. I don't envy anyone machining that much stainless but it appears they got it right.
    Last edited by farmall; 11-24-2021 at 1:01 AM.

  2. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post

    V-Twin must have had a clueless salesdroid fielding questions
    ... /// https://youtu.be/GO_xfR64qSk \\\ ...


    S&S gears will be used, got the reverse C.B. on order (Which has already been narrowed for high lift cams) and the Gen idle gear I have in stock ...
    (Sorry, no lighting holes in them)

    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post

    Indeed but also built like a brick shithouse. I don't envy anyone machining that much stainless but it appears they got it right.
    Titanium would be the "Cat's Ass" ...
    (Unfortunately the Blackbirds used it all up and Russia won't sell us no more since they caught on what we been doing with it) ...





    ... /// https://youtu.be/T9q5XLN4_BI \\\ ...

    Lockheed been busy since 1959 ...



    Shame the SR 71 has been put out to pasture ...
    But SOB may have a foothold in the near future ... (Son of Blackbird, SR 72)

    Airspeed of Mach 6 (Holy Scramjet Batman)
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-24-2021 at 5:33 AM.

  3. #163
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    Ti is still plentiful but it sucks to machine and weld (my machinistbros quite dislike it) so it doesn't get much love and prices are still high enough it's mostly confined to high end motorsport. Even during the Cold War BSA managed titanium frames but they're not great for off-road since you have to backpurge tubing welds and use a trail shield outside to avoid sugaring. Maybe DTIA knows for sure but I once read BSA used a mobile argon box like an aquarium to do their frames. (I'm no great weldor but made a few trail shields for my instructor/boss who could weld the proverbial cat's ass to a plate glass window and even he disliked Ti. We used stainless sheet scraps and pieces of stainless scrubbie in the shield boxes to diffuse the argon).

    Given their absurd cost if ya ever need one they're worth making as it's dirt cheap to do from scrap. This gent does some nice ones:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK6f8Fjluu0

    Ti Duck frames are only a little more than twice the cost of a steel Edlund. http://www.stradafab.net/frames/tita...tclassic-frame Ya know ya wanna Ti frame and swingarm for your Buell.

    When the Soviet Union economically imploded Ti prices dropped because all Russia has is resource extraction (they're good at self-promoting military gear but even Turkish UAS like Bayraktar spank Russian SAMs, their stuff is best for sand people on a budget).

    SR has been obsolete for decades but rockets haul much more ass much faster. By the time the public knows about a project it's old news but that's a good distraction from black programs so they can proceed quietly like F-117 did for many years. (Lotta UFO sightings were F-117 training missions. We inherited their maintainers when the program went public and their stories were a hoot.) Scramjets are worth exploring for many reasons but heavy lift rockets can sling serious weight. Strategic attack rockets could carry bomber-sized payloads, sit ground alert 24/7/365 and be over target even faster besides replenishing satellite clusters. SpaceX is far more impressive than anything with wings and a specfuckingtacular contribution to US power projection since the military will eventually build weaponized systems because they can't afford to cede the ultimate high ground.
    Last edited by farmall; 11-24-2021 at 1:32 PM.

  4. #164
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    Ain't that ^^ a fact ...

    Gapless rings made it here ...



    Did a hone job in order to break the glaze on the jugs, getting ready to break down the crank for machining the L-81 up taper in the left flywheel that will be sent to T&O ..

  5. #165
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    There's something satisfying about freshly ground/honed surfaces. Looking forward to putting my leakdown tester on that puppy.

  6. #166
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    After the breakin don't be surprised to see 2% or less leakage ...

    Could see that right off the bat with a bit more prep work on the wall finish ...

    Plateau honing is a process that improves cylinder wall surface finish by gently removing tiny peaks of torn or folded material and increasing bearing area. A plateau finish is desirable because it allows lubricant to collect in the remaining valleys, improving lubrication control and retention.

    And using this for wall lube ...



    Say ...
    Wanna yak bout your Super-B some ??





    Might be fun .. ??
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-24-2021 at 7:28 PM.

  7. #167
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    Old faithful still has tight throttle bushings after over 100K miles on my stock displacement FXR and ran fine when pulled.

    I ran an adjustable enricher, Superbowl accel pump and sliced off most of the idle screw "wings" (less weight = less to vibrate and wear threads, did that in 1988 and it worked as they're still tight). I through drilled the backing plate (works on Bs but not E's as theirs fail to be flat) for full length screws and lock nuts because piss on slinging cover screws (even with Loctite dat cover is heavy). Common screws replaced with stainless socket heads because to hell with that cheap annoying trash (socket heads stay on the hex key during bowl removals and allow greater force to be applied).

    I've several carbs and really should finish the "extended Amal tickler" mod I began (then got distracted by life and not needing it at the time) and buy some Teflon balls or rod as tickler tips to protect the S&S floats. (I really like Amal ticklers and always wanted one on an S&S). (EDIT, Teflon ordered. Will get on it and post pics.)

    Any recommended driveability mods? I have one or two bodies with Thunderjets but found no benefit on the street.

    Is the bombsight mod worth doing? What is the measurable effect of the Panifold in your experience?

    Suggested starting jet numbers if not the usual .295 low/30something main?

  8. #168
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    By all mean the DaVinci bombsight work wonders ...



    "DaVinci Performance FirePower Booster Kit

    DaVinci Performance, the leader in carburetion, has combined all the technology and skills that have been used over the years in the racing industry to produce the DaVinci FirePower Booster kit for use on Harley Davidsons. The booster kit design is a small venturi inside a larger one; akin to a smaller carb inside a larger one. This assembly, when installed in a carb’s venturi, increases the air velocity and signal at the fuel source. The special booster insert, with its multi-port outlet, then helps atomize the fuel into fine particles, promoting a more powerful fuel/air mixture entering the engine cylinder. The solid brass emulsion tube assembly meters the amount of fuel entering the carb by various sized main jets (Stock S&S jets). Air is also introduced into the fuel as it travels up the tube to the booster. This helps the fuel travel faster and also helps to break down the fuel too. If you are looking to add reliability and power, while decreasing hesitations or dead spots, then this modification is for you. It will provide increased power and drivability, is easy to install, and is affordably priced. Kits include all necessary parts and installation instructions. You can expect gains of up to 15 additional horsepower. With the right booster kit, your carb will become more efficient and will make for a smoother ride."

    ... No longer made by Dan VaVinci since Sifton started making them ... Same Gig .. Difference Continent ..

    Another mod that is worth doing is the main jet air bleed ...



    Adds the ability for tuning ...

    Air Bleed on a "Super-B" .....

    ** Mid-Range Tuning **

    The Air Bleed is an air passage connected to the Main Jet emulsion tube that allow air to mix with fuel before it is pulled into the carb throat ..
    You may have found now that by increasing the low speed jet size, the motor responds better off idle but now has a stutter or hesitation (flat spot) as the rpm rises to a level that recognizes the carb's main jet ..

    All Super-B's are manufactured with a fixed size air bleed passage. By modifying the carb to accept jets will allow you to adjust the main jet air bleed size for more control over the main jet circuit signal timing and fuel volume ..

    Takes drilling, tapping and spot facing to accomplish the install of the air bleed jet ..
    The original air bleed size is .042"; suggested range is .054-.072" .. Use S&S main jets for this application ...

    Bore with a 1/4" drill until you reach the cross drill in carb body. (DO NOT GO PAST CROSS DRILL !!)
    Spot face the area with a 1/2" end mill for mating surface of the jet.
    Use 5/16-24 starter tap in hole and then remove to use a 5/16" bottom tap to finish the job ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 12-01-2021 at 8:48 PM.

  9. #169
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    Have mill so can do air bleed. Have grinder so turning spare tap to bottoming tap no problem.

    So does the bombsight decisively cure the "Spit & Sputter" S&S are famous for? Does it have any effect on required jetting or just work nicer with proper jets?

    They're originally race carbs of course so that didn't matter but smooth is always nice and minor top end flow loss won't matter since this one likely won't spend much time at full throttle. Me want midrange roll-ons.

  10. #170
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    It does and with you having the Superbowl acc. pump you'll be .....


  11. #171
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    Had a two hole crank pin in the crank ...
    It mic-ed out great, going to reuse it ..



    Your sprocket shaft on the left and soon to be a shaft close to the one on the right will be added to the soup .. (Once the S&S order gets here and T&O does their magic)

    About the S&S Gen idle gear ...
    You sent the Oem gear, appears to be in grand shape .. The bushing is like new with the fit on shaft ..
    I really don't see the need for the S&S gear, the money it would cost could be spent elsewhere where it would be a plus ..
    Although the S&S does have a better design by running two bushings (Added support) oppose to the stock gear having only one ...
    But how often does the Oem gear gives up the ghost ... 200,000/300,000 miles ??



    As always, your call .... Boss

  12. #172
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    Rods and bearings will also be reused ...

    ... /// https://youtu.be/BkwjjMiHoCI \\\ ...

  13. #173
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    Here's an oldie but is a goodie ....



    *Cobra (112) Cam* .. Power in the 2500-5000 RPM range. Works best in motors up to 86".

    It's used but far from used up ...

    Just might be a great choice for the 48 ....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-27-2021 at 4:40 PM.

  14. #174
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    Might as well keep the idler gear but as for cams and tappet rollers/tappets I prefer new since they're so highly loaded.

    That does beg the question who makes the best quality cams these days. That grind or similar and RPM range is on the money.

  15. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post

    That does beg the question who makes the best quality cams these days. That grind or similar and RPM range is on the money.
    I been using Leineweber's for more years than I can remember ...
    Jimmy/Justin offers many grinds, have a look ..

    ... /// https://www.leinewebercams.com/PG4_S...4wfall2016.pdf \\\ ...

    Interesting "Family History" Jimmy told me ...
    His family roots are from Chicago, his Grandfather owned a Cigar shop across the street from the Biograph Theater ..



    John Dillinger was existing the theater as Melvin Purvis (FBI Agent) stood by the front door and signaled Dillinger's exit to his men by lighting a cigar. A cigar that was bought from Jimmy's Grandfather on July 22, 1934 ....

    Another side of the Dillinger story is the "Woman in Red" Anna Cumpănaș ..



    BTW ... That's ^^ not Anna, that be Fiona Johnson ...
    __________________________________________

    Bout the cam ...

    Make a pick and I'll run the Accelerator program for that grind ...



    Had a chat with Leineweber, both of us think the L-31 would be a great choice for a kick start scooter sporting those cubes ..
    Lets see what the program thinks bout that grind, shall we ??

    Click image for larger version. 

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    (Going to need race valve springs for that grind)



    These springs ain't going to cut the cheese .. !!



    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-29-2021 at 5:32 PM.

  16. #176
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    Morris Mag parts showed up ...

    Jumped too getting it nailed on the 52 ...



    Thought that the 1/4" X 24 bolts that Morris sent might be a tad long ... But they went in without bottoming out ...



    Lubed the Bad-Boy up, and installed new points & condenser set to .015"



    And timed it ...





    That chore is now done .... Waiting on the Alum Goodson Mag Cap to show up ...

    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-29-2021 at 9:21 PM.

  17. #177
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    Working the heads is next ...

    Since these castings have the hump for the rivet that the 48 to 54 heads used on the intake manifold rings, won't be having a need for that hump ... A bit of grind time to net a better look will go down in that area ...



    Most likely a few other spots will need to be worked ...
    Getting around to doing that work today .. I hope .. ??



    ... Hump be gone ...

    I really like these re-pops ..
    Look at how much more fin area they have over the Oem heads ..





    With all that added meat, these puppies must weigh a pound or two more than the stock heads ...

    Well, I had to know ...





    Front head got blended ...



    ... /// https://youtu.be/cw2Dn9a8sQ4 \\\ ...





    Going to look fantastic with the shine up top .. !!
    (Don't look Farmall)
    Ohh Hell, go ahead cause those are your heads on that motor ..

    ... /// https://youtu.be/-UHHc7POovg \\\ ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-30-2021 at 8:12 PM.

  18. #178
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    Bet that Gen would be toast if I tried to Powder coat it ...
    400 degrees is "Hot as a Fresh F*cked Fox ina Forrest Fire" .. !!

    Sumthin sure needs to be done with it ... ??



    Need a bigger Horn !


    ... /// https://youtu.be/ecvIZ3agcLQ \\\ ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 12-01-2021 at 1:05 AM.

  19. #179

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    Motor Porn! Any secrets on the blended finish, sandblast, 60 grit and hammer? That motor is really nice!

  20. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by flatman View Post

    Any secrets on the blended finish, sandblast, 60 grit and hammer?
    That motor is really nice!
    Thanks

    What I did was only the roughing in, from here polishing will go down, the heads will match the shine that's on the lower end ...
    At first we didn't intend to build a fully polished out motor, but, as the build was going together it started to Snowball ...

    36 grit works pretty good too ...

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