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  1. #1
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    Default standard ignition switch as a magneto kill switch?

    Can you use a standard ignition switch as a magneto kill switch?
    If so how do you wire it? or how do you modify it?

    Not looking to plug anything else just make it a kill switch.
    I've tried several combination and didn't succeed but i'm a dummy so maybe it's easy I'm just looking in the wrong direction

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  2. #2

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    The switch should lock in the accessory or parking position, so you could wire from the mag to batt pos on the switch, and accessory to ground. Then you could lock the switch with the mag grounded. Off position would be run. If you do this, you cannot wire anything else to that switch.

    Jim

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    I don't have a battery, does it change anything?
    Last edited by ElekVins; 06-27-2021 at 2:56 PM.

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    It's possible to modify the switch ...

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    Just as JB said. You run a wire from the magneto to the "battery" post on the switch. And then a wire from the "accessory" post on the switch to a frame or motor "ground".

    A switch is a switch. You don't need a battery. When the switch is in the off position the magneto will work because the wire won't be grounded. When you turn the switch to accessory the wire from the magneto will connect to the wire to the ground and kill the mag.

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    Yes it's what I thought, but it's not working...
    My switch is probably fucked up, not sure how

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    Check for continuity through it.. If you have continuity and a good ground, it should kill the mag until you move the switch and it does not.

  8. #8

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    To keep any confusion down

    With a mag, it makes no dif if you are running a battery or not: What ever switch you want to use, grounding will stop the mag from working: So what ever you want to use, grounding will "kill", or shut off the mag

    Just dont wire any 12v accessory to the circuit you want to shut off the mag with

  9. #9

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    I adapted a standard switch for my magneto sportster.
    In the lock and first position the magneto is grounded, bike is off.
    In the second position the magneto is not grounded.
    In the third and final position the magneto is on and power is supplied to the headlight circuit.
    On the bottom of the switch I cut at least one contact apart with a dremel disc.
    At least one post is grounded, and power comes into another for the lights.
    The switch is simple when viewed from the bottom there is a roller that does the contacting, you can see what is continuous easily in every position.
    If someone really wants to do this I can take it apart for a pic.
    A warning to magneto owners is that no kill switch other than the key switch in the magneto is going to prevent the bike from being started. If you cut the wire coming from the grounding terminal and the mag is not locked off you can start the bike all day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 70fatster View Post
    I adapted a standard switch for my magneto sportster.
    In the lock and first position the magneto is grounded, bike is off.
    In the second position the magneto is not grounded.
    In the third and final position the magneto is on and power is supplied to the headlight circuit.
    On the bottom of the switch I cut at least one contact apart with a dremel disc.
    At least one post is grounded, and power comes into another for the lights.
    The switch is simple when viewed from the bottom there is a roller that does the contacting, you can see what is continuous easily in every position.
    If someone really wants to do this I can take it apart for a pic.
    A warning to magneto owners is that no kill switch other than the key switch in the magneto is going to prevent the bike from being started. If you cut the wire coming from the grounding terminal and the mag is not locked off you can start the bike all day.
    Hi 70fatster,
    Thanks for a detailled explanation, but I'm still a bit lost...
    The pic you suggested would be great please, if you don't mind

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    Yo Vins ....

    Is this set-up for the Pan in the VL frame you been spinning together .. ??

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    Oh man it's a shame, this project is still on hold.
    I wish I had the time and space in my mind to get it really started, hopefully someday if life allows me to keep the parts and the faith until it's doable...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElekVins View Post
    Oh man it's a shame, this project is still on hold.
    Do a piece at a time ...
    Ya got the tranny done, motor still all in one chunk ...

    Finish the frame mods .. I got an idea, send it to Irish Rich Custom Cycles/Shamrock Fabrication ...

    That will take the better part of a year before you will get to see it again ...
    Be all downhill from there, Partner ..

    ... /// https://www.bikernet.com/pages/story...l.aspx?id=1992 \\\ ...
    (Hey, I'm trying to build a fire under your ass here ... Work with me, Buddy)

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by ElekVins View Post
    Hi 70fatster,
    Thanks for a detailled explanation, but I'm still a bit lost...
    The pic you suggested would be great please, if you don't mind
    I missed this post. I'll try to get a few pics up this weekend.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 70fatster View Post
    I missed this post. I'll try to get a few pics up this weekend.
    Still interested in that pic...

  16. #16

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    I took off the bezel and tried to take pics of the back of the switch with a mirror but they wouldn't focus.
    Next step is to unhook the battery ground and unscrew the switch which is sitting on a stack of shims, but the lawn needed mowing and brakes and bearings on the wife's ride...so it's still sitting there.
    Probably Sunday. My generator is losing a bearing so it's down till I replace that anyway, but there's vacation...

  17. #17

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    IMG_7742.jpg (300.7 KB)
    IMG_7741.jpg (300.7 KB)
    IMG_7740.jpg (301.4 KB)
    Top left pic is off position. Black wire top left goes to ground, black wire bottom right goes to magneto kill.
    Top right pic is on with no lights.
    Bottom left pic is power on to start switch, no lights. You can see the cut in the brass at the two o'clock position. This isolates the grounding action.
    The final position is not pictured but it continues to power the start switch, and carries power to the other side for headlights.
    The headlight high/low is on a SPDT switch on the fork tins.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_7742.jpg   IMG_7741.jpg   IMG_7740.jpg  

  18. #18
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    Thank you very much 70fatster !
    It took me a couple of weeks to get at it but I did just like you and it's working perfect!
    Seems simple when you explain it, but I couldn't think it up myself...
    Anyway, thanks again for taking the pictures and share the details!

    Vins

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