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  1. #1
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    Default Rebuilding Kicker - Does This Look Right?

    I posted before about problems with my kickstart, but that thread was recently lost. I sheared the key off a Taiwan kicker gear, so I replaced the gears with a set of Bakers. I still had problems with the kicker locking up. So, I ordered a S&S kicker cover and a Jims kicker shaft.

    I cleaned off the main shaft, and I'm concerned about whether the starter gear is fitting properly onto the taper of the mainsheet. I've never dealt with a Harley 4-speed before, so I'm not sure how far onto the taper the gear has to fit, or whether it will cause a problem if it doesn't.

    Here's what the mainshaft looks like without the starter gear:

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    You can see that it has six threads before the shoulder.

    Here's how it looks with the Taiwan starter gear (left) and the Baker starter gear (right) installed - both without the lock washer:

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    You can see that the Taiwan gear has about 4 1/2 threads exposed, and the Baker gear has about 4 threads exposed. Is this enough? Should the gear fit all the way onto the taper so that all the threads are exposed? If so, how can I get it right? Can or should I lap the gear onto the taper?

    Thanks!

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    Check the fit on the taper by bluing the taper with a marker, and ringing the clutch onto it lightly. I think you will find the fit good unless there is a burr somewhere. Lapping tapers often causes more problems than it solves. Make sure the key is not holding the clutch off the taper. If this clutch does not seat quite as deep as the old one, that will give you a little extra clearance on the ratchet teeth.

    Jim

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    I put some Dykem blue on it. Looks good to me.

  4. #4

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    Dykem. Ain't you deluxe.

    Jim

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    A leftover from my gunsmithing days.

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    Default

    I read your thread the other day and suspect you're problems are stemming from the same issue as mine were. All the problems were to do with the kickers cover and Ted's gears (who would've thought right).

    I found that the bore in the kick cover for my kick shaft was not square to the flange face, meaning the sliding gear was always side loaded on the shaft when running which wore out the bronze bearing very quickly. I also found that the kicker shaft boss in the kick cover set the crank gear depth incorrectly meaning the ramps would foul the teeth on the keyed gear (locking up) when returning, jamming it like yours did.

    I think you'll find Baker gear combined with the S&S cover will solve your problems. They are both much better designed than their inexpensive counterparts, especially the Baker with the radius on the teeth of the sliding gear.

    Good luck and hope your problems are solved!

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    Thanks! I hope you’re right. I got the gears and S&S cover and kicker installed this weekend, but found my transmission had shifted forward due to all my kicking. On my first test kick, the belt slipped because it had become too loose. Not wanting to risk damaging the belt, I didn’t try any more kicks. The first one seemed fine, though.

    Now I need to get the bike back on my stand and tighten up the belt before I try kicking it again. Not sure why the belt loosened. I torqued the transmission stud nuts to spec, but the frame had just been painted, so the paint was probably still a little soft. I suspect the problem will go away after I adjust and retorque it down.

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    Well, that didn’t work. The kicker still jams most kicks. I now suspect that something is messed up in the transmission itself.

    In a fit of rage, I ordered a Baker 6-in-4 today, and it already shipped!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post

    In a fit of rage,
    I ordered a Baker 6-in-4 today!
    That'll fix it al-right ...

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    Nobody tell my wife!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    Nobody tell my wife!
    My wife thought I was the luckiest sob ever I just kept winning all these raffles and promotional giveaways.
    Dusty

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyDave View Post
    My wife thought I was the luckiest sob ever I just kept winning all these raffles and promotional giveaways.
    Dusty
    That's a good idea!

    Anyway, the Baker arrived today, so out with the old . . . .

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    . . . and in with the new.

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    I just set it in there to check clearances. I couldn't get it in all the way yet because I can't lift it up high enough for the fifth stud to clear its mounting tab. I need to unbolt the oil tank, and that should allow me to lift the tank about a 1/2" to get the transmission in place.

    Although the Baker is longer, it actually fits in the bike better. I had to get a longer primary belt because my old transmission would hit the frame, preventing me from sliding it far enough forward. The Baker can slide all the way forward on the transmission plate and still won't hit the frame. Good thing I kept the original belt!

    No problem clearing my exhaust either, which I've heard can be a problem with the Baker's.

    The only issue I see right now is that my oil tank sits too low for me to use the clutch release lever that it came with. I think the standard arm will work, though. I just have to remember where I put it. I think I have two of them, but I couldn't find it tonight.

    I'll have to wait until the weekend to get it mounted.

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