CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
  1. #1
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    340

    Default Rotary Top Neutral to 1st Gear

    1000 miles since I overhauled the rotary top 4 speed on my 1984 FXSB Shovelhead. Leak-free and trouble-free..... other than a minor annoyance which was also present before the overhaul.

    At a stop light in neutral, transmission does not like to go into 1st gear unless I blip the throttle and give it some good persuasion. I feel the "persuasion" is a bit excessive. Clutch has no dragging issues as far as I can tell or creeping at the stoplight issue(5 finger dry clutch). Although, the 5 clutch stud fingers DO have minor wear grooves which I smoothed out as best I could during assembly. I plan on replacing the entire setup with a Rivera Pro Clutch next year. I am running mid controls. Gear spacing and shifter fork alignment I am confident with during the overhaul. Again, it did this before the overhaul (running forward controls at the time).

    Upshifts completely fine. Downshifts completely fine and downshifts just fine into 1st when rolling. Easy to find neutral as well.

    Is this just par for the course with the rotary top? I replaced all the outer linkage mechanisms during the overhaul and already I see a good amount of slop in the bushings. I wonder if that is contributing to it. Sometimes I wish I canned the rotary top for a ratchet top since I feel the rotary top linkages is an absolutely terrible design.

    Anything else I should check?
    Last edited by garystaven88; 4 Weeks Ago at 8:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    12,381

    Default

    Fork finger rollers sticking in the shifter plate ... ??

    I have polished those gates and what a world of diff. it makes ...

  3. #3
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Fork finger rollers sticking in the shifter plate ... ??

    I have polished those gates and what a world of diff. it makes ...
    Only way to find out is to pull the lid off and I aint doing it now LOL.

    The "top hats" and their operation seemed OK during inspection.

    I am running VR1 50wt in there. Not sure if a better fluid to be used?

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,682

    Default

    Sometimes when a clutch is releasing cleanly, nothing in the transmission will move, with the clutch disengaged. Then, when you try to engage first at a full stop, if the shift dogs are not aligned perfectly with the spaces between the dogs on first gear, the shifter can't move the shift clutch into position. Letting out on the clutch lever just enough to let the mainshaft creep a little will allow engagement of first gear.

    Sounds like you have both the transmission and the clutch working slick.

    Jim

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,682

    Default

    Use 90 wt. gear oil or something similar instead of motor oil. The gear oil will reduce wear on the main drive gear seal spacer, which is a real problem in cowpies.

    Jim

  6. #6
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    340

    Default

    I was told by my local independent shop stay AWAY from GL5 due to the brass bushings in the 4 speeds. Or is this rubbish?

  7. #7
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Sometimes when a clutch is releasing cleanly, nothing in the transmission will move, with the clutch disengaged. Then, when you try to engage first at a full stop, if the shift dogs are not aligned perfectly with the spaces between the dogs on first gear, the shifter can't move the shift clutch into position. Letting out on the clutch lever just enough to let the mainshaft creep a little will allow engagement of first gear.

    Sounds like you have both the transmission and the clutch working slick.

    Jim
    Interesting. I will try playing with the lever at the traffic light next ride!

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,682

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by garystaven88 View Post
    I was told by my local independent shop stay AWAY from GL5 due to the brass bushings in the 4 speeds. Or is this rubbish?
    I have had no issues whatsoever in using pretty much any automotive gear oils in H-D transmissions. The bushings are bronze, not yellow brass, for one thing, and the problems from using the wrong gear oil in auto transmissions come from the synchro rings, which operate under severe pressure. H-D transmissions of course are dog clutch transmissions and have no synchro rings. Use whatever oil you like, the synthetics seem to work well.

    Jim

  9. #9
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    I have had no issues whatsoever in using pretty much any automotive gear oils in H-D transmissions. The bushings are bronze, not yellow brass, for one thing, and the problems from using the wrong gear oil in auto transmissions come from the synchro rings, which operate under severe pressure. H-D transmissions of course are dog clutch transmissions and have no synchro rings. Use whatever oil you like, the synthetics seem to work well.

    Jim
    Good stuff. I chose the VR1 due to the heavy zinc. I heard good things about Redline Shockproof and also the Brad Penn 80-90. May give one of those a try down the road.

    For now not messing with the fluid but will try letting the clutch lever out a bit as you suggested to get things spinning inside.
    Last edited by garystaven88; 4 Weeks Ago at 8:49 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    SLetting out on the clutch lever just enough to let the mainshaft creep a little will allow engagement of first gear.

    Jim
    This does the trick. With that, should I adjust my clutch so it is closer to the engagement point so I can just pull the clutch in normally and shift into 1st? And if so, should I add a bit more slack to the cable to accomplish this OR should I turn the 5 clutch spring nuts a click in?

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,682

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by garystaven88 View Post
    This does the trick. With that, should I adjust my clutch so it is closer to the engagement point so I can just pull the clutch in normally and shift into 1st? And if so, should I add a bit more slack to the cable to accomplish this OR should I turn the 5 clutch spring nuts a click in?
    Leave it ALONE!!!

    Jim

  12. #12
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Leave it ALONE!!!

    Jim
    Yes!

    Thanks Jim

Share This



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in