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  1. #1

    Default Help with Wiring Front Banjo Bolt and headlight. Keeps tripping the breaker.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hey everyone, Iím back and looking for more help. Iím running a banjo bolt brake switch on my front master cylinder but I keep tripping the breaker when engaged(if thatís what itís called, it resets its self after). Iíve attached a picture of my current wiring, I hope itís clear and can help. As noted in the picture I currently have wires labeled Red#2 and Orange#2 running to the banjo bolt, I havenít soldered anything yet so if I need to run different wires I can.

    A couple things to note about the picture.
    If wires donít go anywhere they are literally not going any where currently. If itís labeled hot itís a hot wire once the ignition is turned.I have re wired the starter to start with the 3 position IGNITION switch so the green wires coming off the stater currently go no where.

    Finally, on to the headlight, I WAS going to run the Orange#2 to power itís self and the banjo bolt but I assume I canít do that if it canít handle the banjo bolt already. I thought about using the Dark blue but it runs to the same breaker. Any advice on this?

    Finally, when things are wrapped up what do I do with leftover wires? Cut, and heat shrink them so they donít arc to anything?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!!

  2. #2

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    Looks like the picture might be small on mobile so here’s the link to it. https://imgur.com/gallery/zglcl2P

  3. #3
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    You have a hot going to ground where it shouldn't be...........

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    Where in the hell did you come up with that wiring diagram???????
    Last edited by Tattooo; 05-28-2020 at 6:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1986SportyMike View Post
    Finally, when things are wrapped up what do I do with leftover wires? Cut, and heat shrink them so they don’t arc to anything?
    NO you don't just start cutting wires............... The best thing to do is take them completely out of the harness.............

  6. #6

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    The drawing shows two positives and one ground going to the brake light. Most brake lights only need one positive. Was that supposed to be labeled "taillight"?
    Test it without the banjo bolt switch and see what happens. Just connect the red to the orange. The light should light, breaker should stay on. If the problem persists it is not the switch. If it goes away, test each terminal of the banjo switch for continuity to the metal of the switch itself. If there is continuity from either terminal to the switch housing then the switch is faulty.
    Last edited by 70fatster; 05-28-2020 at 7:23 PM.

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    You never said which bike this is, so gonna guess it your handle; a '86 sporty.

    look here:

    Brake Switch - Front & Rear

    " The front & rear brake switches are electrically connected in parallel. This means that either switch, when activated, will send power to the brake light (bright) element.

    The front & rear brake switches are fed power on the ORANGE/White (ORANGE*) wire from the accessory power circuit (circuit breaker or fuse). When activated, either or both switches will supply power on the RED/Yellow (RED*) wire to the rear brake light (*1986-1993 models used solid color wires). "

    http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec03

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    With your current wiring, the brake light would be on 100% of the time.....

    from the fuse to the brake light it should be wired something like this.....
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I would also recommend putting the headlight on it's own fuse....

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    Quote Originally Posted by 04Nighttrain View Post
    With your current wiring, the brake light would be on 100% of the time.....

    from the fuse to the brake light it should be wired something like this.....
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	103874

    I would also recommend putting the headlight on it's own fuse....
    I just finished wiring my softail. Removed everything Harley.... This is pretty much how it's wired up using a 3 pole ignition switch and LED lighting... a few small changes but the concept is as pictured..
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Im going to ask the obvious question.....

    Why have a brake light switch on the front brake? Im use to having a switch on back only. Makes it easier to lose the cops when they dont know your braking hard and ducking to the side.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Where in the hell did you come up with that wiring diagram???????
    I'm sorry about the delay I was hit with Covid right after posting this. This is my wiring diagram, I looked the bike over and used what I had going on to try and pin point the problem. It ended up being in the handlebars, a wire was grounding out from the banjo bolt brake switch. Its all good now, got the headlight and brakelight both working.

    I will remove the left over wires from the harness. Thank you!
    Last edited by 1986SportyMike; 06-04-2020 at 10:44 AM.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    You never said which bike this is, so gonna guess it your handle; a '86 sporty.

    look here:

    Brake Switch - Front & Rear

    " The front & rear brake switches are electrically connected in parallel. This means that either switch, when activated, will send power to the brake light (bright) element.

    The front & rear brake switches are fed power on the ORANGE/White (ORANGE*) wire from the accessory power circuit (circuit breaker or fuse). When activated, either or both switches will supply power on the RED/Yellow (RED*) wire to the rear brake light (*1986-1993 models used solid color wires). "

    http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec03
    Thank you, I ended up solving the issue. It was a grounded wire inside the handlebar from the banjo bolt brake switch.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by 04Nighttrain View Post
    With your current wiring, the brake light would be on 100% of the time.....

    from the fuse to the brake light it should be wired something like this.....
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	lts.JPG 
Views:	3 
Size:	34.3 KB 
ID:	103874

    I would also recommend putting the headlight on it's own fuse....
    The way it is currently wired has the tailight illuminated when the bike is on, and when the brake is applied the light gets brighter. I ended up solving the issue. (it was grounding out inside the handle bars) DOH! thank you for the input!

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by 70fatster View Post
    The drawing shows two positives and one ground going to the brake light. Most brake lights only need one positive. Was that supposed to be labeled "taillight"?
    Test it without the banjo bolt switch and see what happens. Just connect the red to the orange. The light should light, breaker should stay on. If the problem persists it is not the switch. If it goes away, test each terminal of the banjo switch for continuity to the metal of the switch itself. If there is continuity from either terminal to the switch housing then the switch is faulty.
    I didnt even think of having it labeled wrong. Yes its a tail light; I ended up figuring out what was wrong. One wire from the banjo bolt was grounding out inside of the handlebars. Thank you for the help!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1986SportyMike View Post
    It ended up being in the handlebars, a wire was grounding out from the banjo bolt brake switch.
    Well damn, Right again.......

    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    You have a hot going to ground where it shouldn't be...........

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