Brand New Super E Won’t Start After Install

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  • WhiteLightning666
    Junior Member
    • May 2020
    • 2

    Brand New Super E Won’t Start After Install

    I chopped up a ‘99 Sportster 1200 2 winters ago and have been having endless intake issues since, which I always found strange since the carb was never altered or even removed from the motor. After exploring every last possible option and possibility with the CV carb flooding and subsequent motor cutout, I decided to toss it and get a new s&s super e.

    Lo and behold, the bike fails to start and soon begins spitting gas just like the stock CV within a few tries. Only this time, instead of draining from the overflow hose like it did on the CV, gas seems to be dripping from the throat. Has anybody had this issue after installing an S&S before and/or have any bright ideas? Much appreciated in advance! The other bikes are on the chopping block for now and I’m itching to get this one back on the road.

    Note: the super E is equipped with a speed dealer velocity stack with screen & aftermarket enrichment knob; OEM install instructions were followed to a T
    Last edited by WhiteLightning666; 05-28-2020, 9:48 AM.
  • JBinNC
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2018
    • 2713

    #2
    First, did you pull the bowl and set the float level? Many new in da box carbs have incorrect float levels

    Second, it sounds like your problem may be ignition related, or even a mechanical problem of the motor, like a bent valve or something.

    You need to start with the basics and set the motor up from the beginning, which would be a compression test.

    Jim

    Comment

    • 69Glide
      Member
      • Jun 2016
      • 80

      #3
      Sounds to me like you may have crap in the fuel. If both carbs have overflow issues it may be that your fuel is contaminated and particles are preventing the float needle from sealing. Worth a look..

      ...

      Comment

      • WhiteLightning666
        Junior Member
        • May 2020
        • 2

        #4
        That’s what I feared. But why would it be that it ran great for years, but only started having the flooding issue after sitting for 2 months while I hardtailed the frame?

        Comment

        • 70fatster
          Member
          • Jan 2013
          • 95

          #5
          If the bike was flooding out with the CV until the engine wouldn't run, did you install new plugs?
          Fouled plugs don't work no matter what carb is on there.
          After the build, did you put in brand new gas, or gas from the lawnmower can?
          The rubber tip n the float valve needle is sometimes just fine until it gets dry, then cracks almost immediatel, could have been the CV problem.
          Did you adjust the valves? I would check there before the ignition, you didn't say it was even sputtering.

          Comment

          • farmall
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2013
            • 9983

            #6
            Your first problem is incorrect troubleshooting. I hope ya didn't throw the old carb away. ALWAYS study correct troubleshooting on EVERYTHING (bikes, computers, whatever) and never assume you know what you're doing until you've proven it over time. I'm ready to learn from anyone.

            You can check any carb off the bike with a long hose from the stock tank (after dumping the fuel and filling with fresh gas) by holding it in your hand at different positions, then correct the problem if it overflows. I sometimes check float level (outdoors) with the float bowl removed using a dummy tank. You can see needle/seat leakage that way.

            Spark test. On stock "wasted spark" ignitions I hose clamp or rubber band the plugs together at the shells (and later tack welded two plugs together, any plug will do, it's insanely convenient) because current flows from pole to pole at the coil. Happy news = fat blue sparks. I buy plugs online and always get a couple spare sets (I don't buy toilet paper by the sheet either) but your local auto store should have a match.

            If the engine is stock there is no valve adjustment, the hydraulic lifters handle that.

            Comment

            • 70fatster
              Member
              • Jan 2013
              • 95

              #7
              Oops on the valve adjustment idea, I'm not used to these newfangled hydraulic lifter things!

              Comment

              • farmall
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2013
                • 9983

                #8
                Originally posted by 70fatster
                Oops on the valve adjustment idea, I'm not used to these newfangled hydraulic lifter things!
                Check your factory service manual and factory parts catalog (if you're keeping the motorcycle you NEED those books, no substitutions) to see what you're dealing with internally. They save you far more than they cost.

                Comment

                • Hoghead
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2015
                  • 2580

                  #9
                  This may sound bizarre, but it actually happened....Finished a rebuild of my 1988 sportster, turned fuel on prior to starting and it pissed out the carb all over the floor. WTF? My buddy grumbled that I had got shit in the carb whilst fitting a jetting kit. Nada-clean as inside...Eventually found it was a blocked gas cap vent causing a siphoning effect!

                  Comment

                  • docmel
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2015
                    • 883

                    #10
                    So it happened after a build? I beleive its a possible spark issue related to wiring Check every inch of wiring for a unintended ground or pinch somewhere

                    Comment

                    • tzienlee
                      • Apr 2024

                      #11
                      the CV is a bloody good Carb, far better than any S&S for easy starting & reliable running,
                      you MUST get a FACTORY manual, they have so much in them of use to you unlike the Clymer or Heynes ones
                      that are generalised for many models not model specific.

                      Comment

                      • nicolejlapp
                        • Apr 2024

                        #12
                        "An OEM makes systems or components that are used in another company's end product. I agreed with your comment and this is a very important aspect. I do have a website for bike spare parts and it is very important to explain the importance and installation process in detail. My right hand in this work is https://writinguniverse.com/free-ess...es/psychology/. These people are well experienced and the language of the content is very easy to understand.
                        Now people come to my website and they are happy. They buy spare parts and I have explained the troubleshoot as well for S&S."

                        Comment

                        • docmel
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2015
                          • 883

                          #13
                          The SS pretty much is out of the box and it works: I do agree though, check the float level regardless, as with any new carb

                          What gives this away is that it isnt a carb model roblem, but a problem that exists in both the CV and SS carb

                          You said it ran ok, sat for 2 months, then flooding. This tells me you have some sediment in the carb bowl. I have encountered this prob a few times myself. In-tank filters (in the petcock) take the big stuff out, but lets very very fine sediment in, and over time, will settle in the bottom of the carb bowl, wether its ran regulary or not

                          Take the bowl off, take a look at the bottom of the bowl. It prob wont look like allot of sediment is there, but also look for what looks like a brownish red stain in the bowl. That's sediment as well. You need to double check the float level anyways, and that requires removal of the bowl, so you can rule out 2 possible causes

                          Get rid of that velocity stack. Looks cool but doesnt work well in reality, and lets sandpaper in your motor. Even the V stacks that have a so called foam filter I would never run

                          Read the SS instructions CLOSLEY again. People tend to blow off the instructions, specifically float adjust, accel pump adjustment, etc, and those are key adjustments to get the most of what you paid for. Also, SS has great videos to tackle any adjustment or problem. Remember, all engines are different, and it will take a little tweaking to get the most out of your carb. Anyone can do it with just a screw driver

                          Good luck, keep us informed

                          Comment

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