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  1. #1
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    Default compressor water oil filter

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I order this thing for my 30 gallon compressor, Any of you pro painters want to comment on this thing, im sure its better than my husky filter.


    I had fish eye, never had that b4, I always drain my tank before painting and have the usual cream come out with water.
    I took my filter apart and it had oil coating inside it, i never took it apart before , it is oil free now.

    I also drained my tank complete down 2 times.

    anyway I upgraded to above along with some hiflow fittings and new 15" hose

    I have new larger air filters coming for intake also..

    pointers tips what ya think of the set up I orderd

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    Looks like it should work, do you have a ball valve on the drain on your tank? Depending on the compressor you may need an elbow and and a 4 or 6 " piece of pipe to get the ball valve out where it's easy to turn on and off. I drain my tank every time I use it and that filter needs to be about 25 or so foot from the compressor in order for the water to condense out
    Last edited by ncmc47; 05-17-2020 at 6:19 PM. Reason: spellinhg

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    Your air line is also contaminated with oil ...... Buy a new one...... Don't use it for anything else but to paint with....

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    Any thoughts on the small, white, ball filters that plumb into the airline right at the spray gun, believe these are air and water filters????

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Your air line is also contaminated with oil ...... Buy a new one...... Don't use it for anything else but to paint with....
    Truth. Have a clean air hose etc from tank to spray gun. A filter/water separator at the gun end of the hose gives time for the air to cool and separate water by condensation. Run a short whip hose from that to the gun.

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    Hoo Boy! Can I rant for hours on this topic. Ill try and hit the high points.

    A) Your whole system is contaminated. You MIGHT be able to clean it, but its going to take some work. Dont ever let it happen again. Get some MEK, or TriChlor if you can find it. (Cancerous shit) and swish thru the lines and fittings. Rinse with this, let dry and do repeatedly. Use another compressor to blow out the lines with this stuff.. Brake cleaner will also work. The point is, super hot solvent that washes away wax, grease and oils and then evaporates dry.

    ** I used to let a partner share my shop space until he abused the privileges too many times,. Aint no friend no more. Ran the piss out of my compressor and contaminated the lines with oil and water. Took me most of a day to clean it. BUTTF**K didnt even say sorry. I was earning my living with a paint booth and shop. total butt nugget.

    So, I can dive deep on a painters rig, But the bottom line is a cool compressor is a happy compressor. Amateurs and hobbyists use a alloy pump. Better is a sleeved pump with cast iron, Best is a heavy duty commercial grade Cast Iron pump. Even better is 2 stage Cast Iron pump. You can go one more with a radial screw compressor but thats so insanely priced only factories can afford that.

    Post military I was poor, and lived out of a duffel bag and 800 pounds of shippable personal items for years. So I started investing in tools. First up was girlfriend with a Sears credit card helped me out and a Craftsman 5 hp Compressor. I made it work setting it up with a wind tunnel and box fans to keep it cool, Lots of filters and long plumbing lines. Lots of hands on maint. to keep it running. I did garage paint jobs in my Dads house with it. Decent results. Been painting since the late 70s, so have evolved thru the products and tech over the years from Lacquers, to enamels and modern Polys and catalyzed miracle paints.

    If you can, VOLUME VOLUME VOLUME and CAPACITY on top. I have a 48 ft semi trailer parked next to my shop. I have my 2 compressors in there. I run one mostly for shop air, but daisy chain them for painting and sandblast. I got a rebuild going on with a huge commercial Cast Iron 2 stage pump and will have that up & running soon. But right now 2 heavy duty single stage cast iron pumps run by 5 hp commercial DAYTON motors. I run again, a wind tunnel with furnace filters and squirrel cage fans and can switch them on from inside the shop along with a temp gauge.

    When I run both compressors I have them set up so one runs primary and when #2 senses the drop, it kicks in as well. Shop pressure is 120 PSI. Now heres the kicker. Both compressors are on 60 or 70 gallon tanks, but then they run thru a 1" ID line into a 120 Gallon tank under the trailer. That runs a main line into the shop. I used to run a commercial Air conditioner heat exchanger inline but the ID of the lines was too small.

    TECH: Any restriction anywhere in the system throttle the entire system.. so if you run large ID lines but necks down,, thats all you have is the smallest ID.

    So instead I come into the shop and then drops across the back wall to another filter and water trap. Water condenses in the line and I have a 2 foot drop line off the lowest point with a valve to drain it.. Inside my paint area I run a commercial paint filter system that runs a large canister that I change out. I am switching it to a desicant system soon, Got my eye on a few,, but thats overkill for most people. I run a last chance ball filter with desicant in them and change for every job. they are cheap, but no substitute for whats from the source.

    TECH: NEVER EVER EVER use silicone lubricants or Silicone based products anywhere near your shop or paint area. Not within a mile and you want to get your ass kicked, Bring in a can of silicone based lube to a pro painters shop.
    Heres why. The vapors from the silicon will float thru the air and contaminate your paint filters, shop and air system. EVERYTHING will fish eye! My buddy got fired from his dream job painting high end customs because someone in the shop used silicone lube and it got into the paint booths filters. Ruined a real AC Cobra paint job. Worse is they sanded it down and repainted to have it happen again. Thats when they figured out it was the filters contaminated. Owner of shop did not care it was not him. He was the paint squirter and FU happened on his watch. Fired! Only later did they figure out the shop intern did it.
    Color back and other miracle paint restorers are almost always full of silicone. READ THE LABELS CAREFULLY!

    Any rate, VOLUME is your friend. Your compressor can run & run trying to keep up, Or let it run for short times and with all that capacity it only has to kick on & off intermittantly to keep up. This gives you a huge cushion of air. Basic physics is that a pressure drop is less significant across a larger volume. Small tank means the pump is running constantly. You can cheat with a poor mans setup with more air tanks or bigger ones. Sandblasting you need an insane amount of volume so this really helps as well so you dont have to keep stopping and let the pump catch up. Painting uses a lot as well.

    If you use a HVLP gun, you actually crank down the pressure to whatever the gun is set up for ideally, but you still need a lot of volume if you are painting anything significant.

    Heres my fat ass painting over at my father in laws.. He restores sports cars for fun,, This is a makeshift paint booth we setup inside his shop. Not optimum but got the job done and after the car was done, won him a few trophies.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Anybody can paint decent if you take the time. I was using a Harbor freight HVLP cheapo gun for primers and base coats and my high end German SATA for Clear coats. This is redneck painting in that environment, but anyone can do this. I am building a new booth system in my shop right now. Got my wifes Chevelle project coming up.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougtheinternetannoyance123 View Post
    Hoo Boy! Can I rant for hours on this topic. Ill try and hit the high points.

    A) Your whole system is contaminated. You MIGHT be able to clean it, but its going to take some work. Dont ever let it happen again. Get some MEK, or TriChlor if you can find it. (Cancerous shit) and swish thru the lines and fittings. Rinse with this, let dry and do repeatedly. Use another compressor to blow out the lines with this stuff.. Brake cleaner will also work. The point is, super hot solvent that washes away wax, grease and oils and then evaporates dry.

    ** I used to let a partner share my shop space until he abused the privileges too many times,. Aint no friend no more. Ran the piss out of my compressor and contaminated the lines with oil and water. Took me most of a day to clean it. BUTTF**K didnt even say sorry. I was earning my living with a paint booth and shop. total butt nugget.

    So, I can dive deep on a painters rig, But the bottom line is a cool compressor is a happy compressor. Amateurs and hobbyists use a alloy pump. Better is a sleeved pump with cast iron, Best is a heavy duty commercial grade Cast Iron pump. Even better is 2 stage Cast Iron pump. You can go one more with a radial screw compressor but thats so insanely priced only factories can afford that.

    Post military I was poor, and lived out of a duffel bag and 800 pounds of shippable personal items for years. So I started investing in tools. First up was girlfriend with a Sears credit card helped me out and a Craftsman 5 hp Compressor. I made it work setting it up with a wind tunnel and box fans to keep it cool, Lots of filters and long plumbing lines. Lots of hands on maint. to keep it running. I did garage paint jobs in my Dads house with it. Decent results. Been painting since the late 70s, so have evolved thru the products and tech over the years from Lacquers, to enamels and modern Polys and catalyzed miracle paints.

    If you can, VOLUME VOLUME VOLUME and CAPACITY on top. I have a 48 ft semi trailer parked next to my shop. I have my 2 compressors in there. I run one mostly for shop air, but daisy chain them for painting and sandblast. I got a rebuild going on with a huge commercial Cast Iron 2 stage pump and will have that up & running soon. But right now 2 heavy duty single stage cast iron pumps run by 5 hp commercial DAYTON motors. I run again, a wind tunnel with furnace filters and squirrel cage fans and can switch them on from inside the shop along with a temp gauge.

    When I run both compressors I have them set up so one runs primary and when #2 senses the drop, it kicks in as well. Shop pressure is 120 PSI. Now heres the kicker. Both compressors are on 60 or 70 gallon tanks, but then they run thru a 1" ID line into a 120 Gallon tank under the trailer. That runs a main line into the shop. I used to run a commercial Air conditioner heat exchanger inline but the ID of the lines was too small.

    TECH: Any restriction anywhere in the system throttle the entire system.. so if you run large ID lines but necks down,, thats all you have is the smallest ID.

    So instead I come into the shop and then drops across the back wall to another filter and water trap. Water condenses in the line and I have a 2 foot drop line off the lowest point with a valve to drain it.. Inside my paint area I run a commercial paint filter system that runs a large canister that I change out. I am switching it to a desicant system soon, Got my eye on a few,, but thats overkill for most people. I run a last chance ball filter with desicant in them and change for every job. they are cheap, but no substitute for whats from the source.

    TECH: NEVER EVER EVER use silicone lubricants or Silicone based products anywhere near your shop or paint area. Not within a mile and you want to get your ass kicked, Bring in a can of silicone based lube to a pro painters shop.
    Heres why. The vapors from the silicon will float thru the air and contaminate your paint filters, shop and air system. EVERYTHING will fish eye! My buddy got fired from his dream job painting high end customs because someone in the shop used silicone lube and it got into the paint booths filters. Ruined a real AC Cobra paint job. Worse is they sanded it down and repainted to have it happen again. Thats when they figured out it was the filters contaminated. Owner of shop did not care it was not him. He was the paint squirter and FU happened on his watch. Fired! Only later did they figure out the shop intern did it.
    Color back and other miracle paint restorers are almost always full of silicone. READ THE LABELS CAREFULLY!

    Any rate, VOLUME is your friend. Your compressor can run & run trying to keep up, Or let it run for short times and with all that capacity it only has to kick on & off intermittantly to keep up. This gives you a huge cushion of air. Basic physics is that a pressure drop is less significant across a larger volume. Small tank means the pump is running constantly. You can cheat with a poor mans setup with more air tanks or bigger ones. Sandblasting you need an insane amount of volume so this really helps as well so you dont have to keep stopping and let the pump catch up. Painting uses a lot as well.

    If you use a HVLP gun, you actually crank down the pressure to whatever the gun is set up for ideally, but you still need a lot of volume if you are painting anything significant.

    Heres my fat ass painting over at my father in laws.. He restores sports cars for fun,, This is a makeshift paint booth we setup inside his shop. Not optimum but got the job done and after the car was done, won him a few trophies.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DougMGpaint1IMG_0727_2_1.JPG 
Views:	8 
Size:	71.8 KB 
ID:	103504Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DougMGpaint3IMG_0730_5_1.JPG 
Views:	5 
Size:	74.2 KB 
ID:	103505Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DougMGpaint4IMG_0743_3_1.JPG 
Views:	12 
Size:	90.2 KB 
ID:	103506

    Anybody can paint decent if you take the time. I was using a Harbor freight HVLP cheapo gun for primers and base coats and my high end German SATA for Clear coats. This is redneck painting in that environment, but anyone can do this. I am building a new booth system in my shop right now. Got my wifes Chevelle project coming up.
    Thank you for all your help ,and thanks to all the others who replied also.

    I never ever had fish eye
    Im using a husky 30 gallon compressor with vtwin motor , cast

    I ordered a 15 foot hosr just for painting only.
    Along with hi flo fittings. And that nice filter setup

    I have high end air brushes, and 2 starting line paint guns i use only for primer

    My main guns i paint with are iwata LPH 400 and i use pps system. These are really nice guns and cost me alot, one i use only for clear and the other is base coat.

    I also oder new oil and lager air filters.
    Im wondering if i should re ring this thing.

    My paint comes out amazing when i paint

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    I run two sets of dryers with one regulator, but I have drop tees with butterfly valves(to let out moisture/contaminents) every 15' or so along my 100' cast iron pipe.The drop tees get about a half a cup in the first one then a 1/4 cup and only dribbles past that after a month of a one man shop.But I spray 10-100 gallons of topcoat/ lacquer a month in a high humidity state. I run a Kremlin/rexson pump and cup guns lightly. I don't have contaminants unless I leave the windows open when the kids are riding dirt bikes, haha. I also have an easy access drain on my 65 gallon compressor and drain religiously every monday morning.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davestune View Post
    Thank you for all your help ,and thanks to all the others who replied also.

    I never ever had fish eye
    Im using a husky 30 gallon compressor with vtwin motor , cast

    I ordered a 15 foot hosr just for painting only.
    Along with hi flo fittings. And that nice filter setup

    I have high end air brushes, and 2 starting line paint guns i use only for primer

    My main guns i paint with are iwata LPH 400 and i use pps system. These are really nice guns and cost me alot, one i use only for clear and the other is base coat.

    I also oder new oil and lager air filters.
    Im wondering if i should re ring this thing.

    My paint comes out amazing when i paint
    Skank1koles setup sounds really good too. As to your setup, It CAN be made to work, as I said, I used to flip cars and paint bikes when I got out of the military and used a Craftsman 5hp compressor with a small tank, But I had to work hard to make it function and was risky. My suggestion is look carefully at what oil you got in the compressor, but even a loose old one can work, the key is the air lines like what Skank1kole describes is ideal, I am running PVC lines but eventually will switch to steel pipe. But I would also suggest adding capacity with air tanks. Many places will torch old air tanks as they are a liability. (KABOOM) But mine are enclosed and I dont have the public access or rugrats running around so dont care. I treat the inside of the tanks once a year with a solvent clean and have killed the rust with OSPHO (Converts Iron oxide to Iron nitrate, kills rust, prevents corrosion). But if you can find some compressor tanks adding air capacity is so nice you will love it. My buddy calls his air tank "The bomb" and it was some sort of huge commercial reservoir that was pressure rated he cleaned and repurposed and same deal, sits inside a shipping container along with his compressors outside the shop. But if you run a DA sander or other high demand air, capacity is your friend.

    Also look at your CFM ratings for your pump. Thats the key. Pressure and volume are 2 different beasts. Both important. Thats why I daisy chained the 2 pumps as it raises my CFM rate when I need it. The 2 stage pump though is a game changer. Inside that pump is a huge ass piston and a secondary smaller piston. The capacity of that beast will supply more than I ever need. This is a case where more truly IS better! While a 2 stage compressor delivers more air, you are cheating the system with more air tank capacity. Eventually a pump still has to fill the same volume, but it gives you the cushion you need and can get away with a smaller pump.

    Heres a typical rating for sandblast, which is not much more than running a DA.
    " How many CFM do you need for sandblasting?
    An air compressor which produces between 10CFM – 20 CFM is ideal for smaller sandblasting tasks. While a compressor which produces between 18CFM to 35 CFM is better for larger jobs where a more powerful experience is needed. While an industrial type of sandblasting needs a CFM of 50 – 100."

    The more the pump is running for long durations, the more heat with resulting water and oil its pumping. So better if the pump does not have to work so hard keeping up.

    When Tom contaminated my system, I took all my hoses and hung them from the loft of my barn and allowed them to run downhill and flushed them with solvent to clean them. The hard lines I kept blowing out with solvents as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Ok Dave here is my 1955 at least 80gal tank compressor....... And the shut off setup.... I can plug my paint setup right in... That way it stays clean....

    Oh yea my home made filter....... Easy to change for sure..... LOL
    Nice, id love to buy a quincy 80 gallon, if this dies thats what i will do

    I have high end guns so I want my kao t amazing like it has been, shame as this tank i painted looks real nice and I have to da it for a final coat now.

    I am going to run a T from that T will be the set up i have now that is cleen and at the end of T will be the dedicated paint setup. As i said im going to run a 15 foot hose . Both shutoffs will be b4 filters as the one on there is.
    Manufacture calls for synthetic oil, this will be my 3rd oil change. Oil site window shows oil not looking bad just dark so time.
    Up dating air filters.

    My air brushes I use my 3 or 5 gallon compressor, i have painted thousands of lures with. But going to use this setup with air brush allso. I have 3 iwata and 4 or 5 pashe. Air brushes.

    Again i have a 12x12 shed set up like a full shop like at a shop. Lift ect.....

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    Got my filters in, i did not need a T. I had air guage on left side so i pulked it and mounted my old filter wich had air pressure guage and regulator

    On the right is my new set up, i had all the fittings in my air fittings drawer.

    Im wating on my hose and connectors.
    I DA my tank and will do a coat of clear soon

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    The Frantz style toilet paper filters work well for protecting plasma cutters etc. You being even more ancient than I am probably remember those, and they still make 'em!

    Car kit oil filter example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/22396310958...m=223963109586

    https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Guard-M.../dp/B000GI0H2M are much more reasonably priced and have been around many years too.

    I made a similar filter out of tampons, welded pipe reducers and some (internal) steel screen at direction of my veteran pipeliner welding instructor for multiple ESAB plasma cutters and it worked great. The look on our bosses face when he saw me shucking a box worth of "white mice" was priceless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    The Frantz style toilet paper filters work well for protecting plasma cutters etc. You being even more ancient than I am probably remember those, and they still make 'em!

    Car kit oil filter example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/22396310958...m=223963109586

    https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Guard-M.../dp/B000GI0H2M are much more reasonably priced and have been around many years too.

    I made a similar filter out of tampons, welded pipe reducers and some (internal) steel screen at direction of my veteran pipeliner welding instructor for multiple ESAB plasma cutters and it worked great. The look on our bosses face when he saw me shucking a box worth of "white mice" was priceless.
    i had that saved on my amazon

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davestune View Post
    i had that saved on my amazon
    I ALWAYS use fisheye eliminator in my paints, regardkess of the the status of filters I am using

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